From: Devil's_Advocate on
"homepc" <wiebe008(a)gmail.com> wrote :

> One thing about recirculation air in your new Corolla. I don't know if
> yours works the same, but in my 2007 model the air recirculation button
> will only remain depressed if the air is set for floor and or dash board
> vents. If the air is set for defrosting/defogging windshields, the
> recirculation button will immediately pop up and refuse to stay locked
> down.

I noticed that, and was not pleasantly surprised by it. In the 93, it's
mechanical and we can just keep it shut. Who was the genius engineer who
deemed that they knew better than the CUSTOMER, what the customer should
have?

The first thing I noticed was that the LED had to be lit, for it to be
closed, which seemed odd.

Is there a way we can get it hard wired to stay closed? ( may be as simple
as pulling the power wire from it? )







From: Devil's_Advocate on
"homepc" <wiebe008(a)gmail.com> wrote :

>
> Another thing to consider about air recirculation -- your new Corolla
> has a catalytic converter that may emit the smell of rotten eggs
> occasionally. To constantly recirculation the cabin air might
> exasperate the problem if you very sensitive to bad air quality.

How so? The converter is outside, we're inside?

The main thing we're sensitive to is breathing exhaust gases, so we need it
closed all the time. The HM200 air purifier will really help IF we can keep
it closed, but it appears we're gonna have to fight with it, because of some
know-it-all Japanese engineer.

> I have changed over to Shell gasoline during the last winter in an
> effort to combat the problem.

Unless it vents into the cabin, we should be fine.



From: Devil's_Advocate on
"Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote :

> You may be able to reduce the rotten egg odor in the cabin by backing
> into a parking space or driveway if you are going to park it for more
> than 4 or 5 hours. This will wont work if you park in a garage, where
> it is usually not a good idea to back in.
>
> The sulfur odor is usually more prominent when the engine is first
> started after a cold soak, and by backing up after starting a cold
> engine, you drive through the fumes. By driving forward, the cabin air
> intake doesn't pass through the fumes.

Oh ok, a startup thing. We have a driveway, no garage even. All open.

Do they have sulfur in the gas?

From: Ray O on

"Devil's_Advocate" <Devils_Advocate(a)devils_.xyx> wrote in message
news:Xns9D3E7F44FB964DevilsAdvocatedevils(a)216.196.97.142...
> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote :
>
>> You may be able to reduce the rotten egg odor in the cabin by backing
>> into a parking space or driveway if you are going to park it for more
>> than 4 or 5 hours. This will wont work if you park in a garage, where
>> it is usually not a good idea to back in.
>>
>> The sulfur odor is usually more prominent when the engine is first
>> started after a cold soak, and by backing up after starting a cold
>> engine, you drive through the fumes. By driving forward, the cabin air
>> intake doesn't pass through the fumes.
>
> Oh ok, a startup thing. We have a driveway, no garage even. All open.
>
> Do they have sulfur in the gas?

I am not a chemist, but I believe so.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


From: Ray O on

"Devil's_Advocate" <Devils_Advocate(a)devils_.xyx> wrote in message
news:Xns9D3E7E9165DEADevilsAdvocatedevils(a)216.196.97.142...
> "homepc" <wiebe008(a)gmail.com> wrote :
>
>> One thing about recirculation air in your new Corolla. I don't know if
>> yours works the same, but in my 2007 model the air recirculation button
>> will only remain depressed if the air is set for floor and or dash board
>> vents. If the air is set for defrosting/defogging windshields, the
>> recirculation button will immediately pop up and refuse to stay locked
>> down.
>
> I noticed that, and was not pleasantly surprised by it. In the 93, it's
> mechanical and we can just keep it shut. Who was the genius engineer who
> deemed that they knew better than the CUSTOMER, what the customer should
> have?
>
> The first thing I noticed was that the LED had to be lit, for it to be
> closed, which seemed odd.
>
> Is there a way we can get it hard wired to stay closed? ( may be as simple
> as pulling the power wire from it? )
>

The normal default for the HVAC system is for it to be in fresh or outside
air mode because running the system in recirculating mode tends to promote
the buildup of mold on the AC evaporator and the air would get stuffy with
the occupants breathing inside the cabin.

As a district service manager, in almost every case where a customer
complained about poor defroster performance, the customer had the defroster
in recirculating mode instead of the more efficient fresh mode, and the
customers weren't even aware of which mode the system was in. The designers
probably decided to design for the 90% of the people who prefer fast
defogging.

In the defrost mode, the buildup of humidity in the vehicle cabin would make
it take longer to defog the window so automatic systems switch to fresh mode
as well as run the AC compressor when ambient temperatures are above
freezing to dehumidify the air blowing at the windshield.

I'm assuming that your air cleaner does not have a condensate drain hose or
reservoir so it probably does not have a dehumidification function.

Pulling the wire from the switch is probably not the best approach as the
wire is probably part of a multi-pin connector in the HVAC control unit. I
don't recommend this, but if you don't want to have to push a button and if
you really want to keep the HVAC in recirculate mode without the possibility
of being able to select fresh air even when you are in the mountains, away
from the smog that Denver is famous for, it is probably easier to disconnect
the cable or servo from the door that controls the air flow into the heater
core/evaporator, making it easier to restore the HVAC system to the way it
came from the factory when you sell the car.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)