From: jp2express on
Hey Mike,

The ground isn't hard to trace: It goes about 4 whole inches to secure using
the bolt that holds the horn to the truck.

The horn relay is something I'd like to check! I have the Toyota Repair
Manual for this truck, but it fails to list where the horn relay would be
located, and I can't find it.

I'll have to check the 12 volts. That will require assistance, as I can't
very well depress the horn button while reading the meter under the hood.
Maybe I can convince my wife to help with this, but there are no guarantees.

While I'm checking the voltage, could you give me an idea where the horn
relay is?

"Mike" <mik(a)localnet.com> suggests:
>
> I would first check for a bad ground to the horn. Starting at the horn see
> if you can trace the ground wire to were it connects to the chassis. Make
> sure it is clean and tight. I would also check the horn relay, it's
> possible the contacts are burnt and pitted. If you have a multimeter you
> can check to see if you have 12 volts at the horn. If you have high
> resistance in that circuit it should show up as low voltage. If possible,
> visually inspect the horn wiring for any partial breaks in the wiring. It
> would be possible to have a wire that is cut half way through test OK but
> not provide enough current flow under load.


From: jp2express on
Huh.

Well, that wasn't the most encouraging bit of news. Makes me think, "Drats!
That's what I was afraid of."

"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote:
> Probably a corroded terminal somewhere between the steering wheel and
> the horn.
> The corrosion is acting as a resistor.
>
> Could take a while to find.
> I had a problem with my '85 truck with a tiny leak in the middle of the
> bottom edge of the windshield.
> The constant slow dripping of water got all the way down inside the
> dashboard and ended up damaging the air blower vent controls and some
> wiring.
> Absolutely the worst thing to have to fix on a Toyota truck is the air
> box.
> It requires the complete removal of the dash and all it's sub-structures.


From: Mike on

"jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2dmZh.6496$2v1.3659(a)newssvr14.news.prodigy.net...
> Hey Mike,
>
> The ground isn't hard to trace: It goes about 4 whole inches to secure
> using the bolt that holds the horn to the truck.

That makes it easy to check ;). If you haven't already I would take the
ground wire off and make sure ir is a good connection before I started
checking the hot side.

>
> The horn relay is something I'd like to check! I have the Toyota Repair
> Manual for this truck, but it fails to list where the horn relay would be
> located, and I can't find it.

I don't know were it is either but I would look under the hood and around
the fuse box.

>
> I'll have to check the 12 volts. That will require assistance, as I can't
> very well depress the horn button while reading the meter under the hood.
> Maybe I can convince my wife to help with this, but there are no
> guarantees.

I would start by checking at the horn first and working towards the
firewall. You can always use a jumper wire to extend the test leads on your
meter.


>
> While I'm checking the voltage, could you give me an idea where the horn
> relay is?
>
> "Mike" <mik(a)localnet.com> suggests:
>


From: Bruce L. Bergman on
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 15:02:06 GMT, "Mike" <mik(a)localnet.com> wrote:

>> While I'm checking the voltage, could you give me an idea where the horn
>> relay is?

The older (80's and back IIRC) trucks don't have a horn relay - the
clue is the horn has a 2-wire connector and neither one is grounded.

One horn lead goes to constant +12 battery through a fuse, and the
other goes to the horn ring brush assembly, through the steering wheel
slip ring and then to the horn button switch.

Ground is through the steering column, and if there is a bad ground
strap or bond jumper that will cause an intermittent horn too.

--<< Bruce >>--

From: jp2express on
Bruce,

So, I take it that under normal conditions, both of the wires going to the
horn will have +12VDC on them.

Is this correct?

The act of "honking the horn" just provides a ground for the 12V. Still
correct?

I replaced the little brass horn pin in the steering column because it was
worn away.

The steering column does make a lot of squeaking noises when I turn the
wheel. Is there something in there I could lubricate? Should it not be
lubricated, but dusted?

Just looking for more ideas to try, that's all. And I don't want to
unknowingly break something.

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote
>
> The older (80's and back IIRC) trucks don't have a horn relay - the
> clue is the horn has a 2-wire connector and neither one is grounded.
>
> One horn lead goes to constant +12 battery through a fuse, and the
> other goes to the horn ring brush assembly, through the steering wheel
> slip ring and then to the horn button switch.
>
> Ground is through the steering column, and if there is a bad ground
> strap or bond jumper that will cause an intermittent horn too.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
>


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