Best year for old 2- wheel pickup
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From: cognite tute on 23 Apr 2007 16:05 km wrote: > Hey Folks, > > Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive > extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and > rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small > camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do > some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I > can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means > a lot of years as a low buget ride. > > Thanks for any help. > > Warm Regards, > > Karl > I have a'92 ext cab pu, bought in March '93. I have replaced the clutch, and the fuel pump (twice). repainted, and Linex bed liner painted. new stereo radio Something in the throttle (mass flow sensor maybe, under warranty). Nothing else. Will have 300,000 miles in about a month. Transmission whines in 5th gear. Otherwise excellent daily driver, get right at 29-30 mpg. j.
From: Mike on 24 Apr 2007 12:54 "Ernie Leimkuhler" <stagesmith(a)mindspring.com> wrote in message news:stagesmith-7350A6.22451520042007(a)news.west.earthlink.net... > In article <1177091727.395360.71800(a)n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>, > km <meyerkarl(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > >> Hey Folks, >> >> Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive >> extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and >> rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small >> camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do >> some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I >> can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means >> a lot of years as a low buget ride. >> >> Thanks for any help. >> >> Warm Regards, >> >> Karl > > Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the > excellent 22R engine. > The first real trucks were from '79 to '83. > The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I > own 3 of them). > Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94. > The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in > that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round > exhaust ports. I think you are confusing the 20R with the 22R engine. The 20R engine was used until 1980 and was replaced by the 22R in 1981. > These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body > style had changed. > The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a > ever growing emissions control. > The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version. > The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel > injection. > The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP. > I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs, > I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks. > Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by > yourself. > The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of > the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more > sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot. > > In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few > transmissions to look for. > The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will > be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's. > You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's. > The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity. > Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions. > My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny. > Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14. > These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy > loads. > My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid. > It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs. > Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton. > makes a world of difference. > Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines. > > In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the > Xtra-cab with a longbed. > In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a > 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it. > In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the > 22R engine. The Tacoma never used the 22R engine. The 2 wheel drive models used the 2RZ-FE, which was also a 2.4L. The 4 wheel drive model used the 3RZ-FE which is a 2.7L. > Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
From: Ernie Leimkuhler on 25 Apr 2007 03:42 In article <gDqXh.7304$ya1.6390(a)news02.roc.ny>, "Mike" <mik(a)localnet.com> wrote: > "Ernie Leimkuhler" <stagesmith(a)mindspring.com> wrote in message > news:stagesmith-7350A6.22451520042007(a)news.west.earthlink.net... > > In article <1177091727.395360.71800(a)n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>, > > km <meyerkarl(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > >> Hey Folks, > >> > >> Looking for info on the best year / motor to get in the 2-wheel drive > >> extended. cab truck. My plan is to get an early 90's or late 80's and > >> rebuild it if I have to and keep for a long time. Plan to have a small > >> camper set up for use a few times a year. Use as daily driver. and do > >> some light hauling. I want the most economical buget minded deal I > >> can get. And like I say willing to put in money to rebuild if it means > >> a lot of years as a low buget ride. > >> > >> Thanks for any help. > >> > >> Warm Regards, > >> > >> Karl > > > > Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the > > excellent 22R engine. > > The first real trucks were from '79 to '83. > > The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I > > own 3 of them). > > Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94. > > The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in > > that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round > > exhaust ports. > > I think you are confusing the 20R with the 22R engine. The 20R engine was > used until 1980 and was replaced by the 22R in 1981. > > I know a 20R since I had one in my '78 toyota truck. Have you ever rebuilt a 22R in your life? I have rebuilt 8 of them. There are 2 distinct families of 22R's. You are right that it began in '81, not '79. The earlier model can be seen in any '83 and some '84's. It is easiest to spot it in the truck since it uses a 7 bolt exhaust manifold. So it has 3 bolts on each end and one dead center. If you removed the exhaust manifold you would fine ROUND exhaust ports. The 22R's made from late '84 to '95 have an 8 bolt exhaust manifold. If you removed that manifold you would find PEAR SHAPED exhaust ports. The earlier 22Rs have a shorter block, thicker head and longer timing chain. They also have what are called "domed" pistons, with a raised half ring on the combustion surface of the piston. Many parts are interchangeable between the 2 types of 22R's, like the cranks shaft, cam shaft, and valves, but most parts of different. Quoted from http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20Information/22r_tech_notes.htm "The 20R 2200cc. / 22R 2400cc. engines were the most popular US Toyota engines. For 20 years, 1975 to 1995, these motors served as U.S.Toyota's dependable workhorse engine. These engines powered the popular Celicas until 1985, and the unbreakable Pick-up models used these engines until 1995 (in commercial models). Turbo models appeared briefly as the 22RTE in 1985-1988 on Pick-up and 4Runners. The 22RE Fuel injection models appeared in 1983, on some Celica and Pick-up models. In 1985- the 22RE had a major change. The block was taller and the head shorter, compared to the earlier models. The engines' blocks and heads are not interchangeable (for practical and cost purpose)." > > These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body > > style had changed. > > The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a > > ever growing emissions control. > > The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version. > > The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel > > injection. > > The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP. > > I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs, > > I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks. > > Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by > > yourself. > > The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of > > the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more > > sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot. > > > > In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few > > transmissions to look for. > > The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will > > be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's. > > You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's. > > The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity. > > Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions. > > My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny. > > Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14. > > These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy > > loads. > > My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid. > > It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs. > > Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton. > > makes a world of difference. > > Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines. > > > > In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the > > Xtra-cab with a longbed. > > In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a > > 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it. > > In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the > > 22R engine. > > The Tacoma never used the 22R engine. The 2 wheel drive models used the > 2RZ-FE, which was also a 2.4L. The 4 wheel drive model used the 3RZ-FE which > is a 2.7L. > > > Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
From: jp2express on 26 Apr 2007 10:14 Ernie, Since you seem pretty darned knowledgeable on these little trucks, can I ask you about a Horn problem I have in my 86 pickup? My old horn sounded like an old goose when I honked it: It started slow, then went to a sick sound. Instead of "BEEP" it went "muuu eeeh" (don't know how else to describe it). So far, I have replaced the brass horn pin under the steering wheel - didn't help. So, I went to the auto parts store and got an extra loud "low tone" horn. Installed it, and it sounds exactly like the old horn! There must be a wiring problem somewhere or maybe there is a horn relay that is corroded. I looked in my factory Repair Manual and in my Chilton's manual, but nothing says anything about how to bring the old, soggy horn back to life. Any thoughts? ~Joe "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote > Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the > excellent 22R engine. > The first real trucks were from '79 to '83. > The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I > own 3 of them). > Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94. > The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in > that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round > exhaust ports. > These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body > style had changed. > The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a > ever growing emissions control. > The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version. > The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel > injection. > The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP. > I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs, > I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks. > Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by > yourself. > The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of > the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more > sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot. > > In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few > transmissions to look for. > The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will > be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's. > You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's. > The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity. > Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions. > My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny. > Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14. > These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy > loads. > My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid. > It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs. > Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton. > makes a world of difference. > Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines. > > In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the > Xtra-cab with a longbed. > In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a > 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it. > In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the > 22R engine. > Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
From: Mike on 26 Apr 2007 16:48
"jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:Ts2Yh.1035$uJ6.875(a)newssvr17.news.prodigy.net... > Ernie, > > Since you seem pretty darned knowledgeable on these little trucks, can I > ask > you about a Horn problem I have in my 86 pickup? > > My old horn sounded like an old goose when I honked it: It started slow, > then went to a sick sound. Instead of "BEEP" it went "muuu eeeh" (don't > know > how else to describe it). > > So far, I have replaced the brass horn pin under the steering wheel - > didn't > help. > > So, I went to the auto parts store and got an extra loud "low tone" horn. > Installed it, and it sounds exactly like the old horn! > > There must be a wiring problem somewhere or maybe there is a horn relay > that > is corroded. I looked in my factory Repair Manual and in my Chilton's > manual, but nothing says anything about how to bring the old, soggy horn > back to life. > > Any thoughts? > ~Joe You can start by connecting the horn directly to the battery with a jumper wire and see if the horn changes tone, that will tell you if the horn is the problem. Do you have a wiring diagram for the horn cicuit ? |