Best year for old 2- wheel pickup
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From: Ernie Leimkuhler on 26 Apr 2007 23:30 In article <Ts2Yh.1035$uJ6.875(a)newssvr17.news.prodigy.net>, "jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > Ernie, > > Since you seem pretty darned knowledgeable on these little trucks, can I ask > you about a Horn problem I have in my 86 pickup? > > My old horn sounded like an old goose when I honked it: It started slow, > then went to a sick sound. Instead of "BEEP" it went "muuu eeeh" (don't know > how else to describe it). > > So far, I have replaced the brass horn pin under the steering wheel - didn't > help. > > So, I went to the auto parts store and got an extra loud "low tone" horn. > Installed it, and it sounds exactly like the old horn! > > There must be a wiring problem somewhere or maybe there is a horn relay that > is corroded. I looked in my factory Repair Manual and in my Chilton's > manual, but nothing says anything about how to bring the old, soggy horn > back to life. > > Any thoughts? > ~Joe > Sounds like water got inside the coil in the old horn. If water gets inside it will kill the coil and hence the sound output. Easier to find another in a junkyard. I think I have 4 of them scattered around my parts boxes. I currently have enough parts to assemble 2-1/2 working trucks. > "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote > > Toyota trucks have a few generations, all with variations of the > > excellent 22R engine. > > The first real trucks were from '79 to '83. > > The real heyday was from '84 to '88 (these are my preferred trucks as I > > own 3 of them). > > Then the body style changed again from '89 to '94. > > The 22R used from '79 to '83 is different from the later versions in > > that it has a taller block, taller head, longer timing chain and round > > exhaust ports. > > These engines also were used in many of the '84's even though the body > > style had changed. > > The 22R engine was virtually unchanged from '85 to '95, other than a > > ever growing emissions control. > > The original 22R had around 85 HP in the carbureted version. > > The later 22R had around 95 HP iwith a carb or 110 HP with fuel > > injection. > > The turbo version was around 125 - 130 HP. > > I would avoid the turbo because of repair costs, > > I own both carbed and fuel injected trucks. > > Te carbed versions have less power, but are easier to trouble shoot by > > yourself. > > The fuel injected engines are definitely more powerful, but if some of > > the sensors or computerized systems get wonky, it requires a more > > sophisticated level of training to trouble shoot. > > > > In the 2 wheel drive trucks in the mid 80's there are a few > > transmissions to look for. > > The standard 5 speed tranny was a W55, and it works fine, but you will > > be limited to tires no larger than 205R14's. > > You will get a bit more torque if you stay to 195R14's. > > The problem with these small tires is lack of payload capacity. > > Both of my main trucks now have 1-ton transmissions. > > My '85 flatbed is a factory 1-ton so it has the W56 tranny. > > Way more torque, and I can use my favorite tires, 27X8.5R14. > > These tires have a 6 ply side wall and can run up to 50 PSI for heavy > > loads. > > My '86 extra-cab longbed is now a hybrid. > > It was a factory 1/2 - ton, with really wimpy rear springs. > > Now it has the springs, axle, drive lines, and tranny from a 1-ton. > > makes a world of difference. > > Another option is to use a 4WD tranny and adapt the drive lines. > > > > In '89 toyota expanded the Xtracab area, but no longer offered the > > Xtra-cab with a longbed. > > In '90 they required a V6 with the 1-ton, and you really don't want a > > 3VZE V6 engine if you can avoid it. > > In '95 they came out with the first Tacoma truck, but it still had the > > 22R engine. > > Toyota also got out of the flatbed and commercial chassis market in '95.
From: jp2express on 27 Apr 2007 09:55 The old horn will blow/honk loud enough to bring blood to your ears if it is connected directly to the battery. In other words, yes, the horn works great! I do not have a wiring diagram for the horn circuit. Any idea where I could find one to print out? "Mike" wrote > > You can start by connecting the horn directly to the battery with a > jumper wire and see if the horn changes tone, that will tell you if the > horn is the problem. Do you have a wiring diagram for the horn cicuit ? >
From: jp2express on 27 Apr 2007 09:57 Hi Ernie, Yes, it would seem like water got inside the coil or something like that, but the new horn that I got from the Auto Parts store sounds exactly the same! ...and it is supposed to be a different tone. Any thoughts? "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote > > Sounds like water got inside the coil in the old horn. > If water gets inside it will kill the coil and hence the sound output. > Easier to find another in a junkyard. > > I think I have 4 of them scattered around my parts boxes. > I currently have enough parts to assemble 2-1/2 working trucks.
From: Mike on 27 Apr 2007 11:21 "jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:hhnYh.2279$H84.244(a)newssvr22.news.prodigy.net... > The old horn will blow/honk loud enough to bring blood to your ears if it > is connected directly to the battery. That's what I thought, the horn is fine. > > In other words, yes, the horn works great! > > I do not have a wiring diagram for the horn circuit. Any idea where I > could find one to print out? No idea were you can find one to print, at least I wasn't able to find anything. I would first check for a bad ground to the horn. Starting at the horn see if you can trace the ground wire to were it connects to the chassis. Make sure it is clean and tight. I would also check the horn relay, it's possible the contacts are burnt and pitted. If you have a multimeter you can check to see if you have 12 volts at the horn. If you have high resistance in that circuit it should show up as low voltage. If possible, visually inspect the horn wiring for any partial breaks in the wiring. It would be possible to have a wire that is cut half way through test OK but not provide enough current flow under load. > > "Mike" wrote >> >> You can start by connecting the horn directly to the battery with a >> jumper wire and see if the horn changes tone, that will tell you if the >> horn is the problem. Do you have a wiring diagram for the horn cicuit ? >> > >
From: Ernie Leimkuhler on 28 Apr 2007 13:48
In article <MinYh.2280$H84.1280(a)newssvr22.news.prodigy.net>, "jp2express" <jp2mail-tempforum(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi Ernie, > > Yes, it would seem like water got inside the coil or something like that, > but the new horn that I got from the Auto Parts store sounds exactly the > same! ...and it is supposed to be a different tone. > > Any thoughts? Probably a corroded terminal somewhere between the steering wheel and the horn. The corrosion is acting as a resistor. Could take a while to find. I had a problem with my '85 truck with a tiny leak in the middle of the bottom edge of the windshield. The constant slow dripping of water got all the way down inside the dashboard and ended up damaging the air blower vent controls and some wiring. Absolutely the worst thing to have to fix on a Toyota truck is the air box. It requires the complete removal of the dash and all it's sub-structures. > > "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote > > > > Sounds like water got inside the coil in the old horn. > > If water gets inside it will kill the coil and hence the sound output. > > Easier to find another in a junkyard. > > > > I think I have 4 of them scattered around my parts boxes. > > I currently have enough parts to assemble 2-1/2 working trucks. |