Bad ECM?
in [Toyota Trucks]
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From: mrsteveo on 8 Sep 2006 19:23 I tend to Mark Ray's comments on Google Groups at level 5. Not sure what it does but, I do it! Always great advice! Ray O wrote: > "Danny G." <dandog(a)pacbell.net> wrote in message > news:YNkMg.2459$MF1.1876(a)newssvr25.news.prodigy.net... > > > > "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message > > news:b2396$4501cbdb$44a4a10d$11429(a)msgid.meganewsservers.com... > >> > >> "Dante" <dante(a)xmission.com> wrote in message > >> news:edsh15$h70$1(a)news.xmission.com... > >>> Ok... So I posted here a couple of months about about three sensors on > >>> my truck being stuck in not ready status. (1996 Toyota Tacoma X-Cab, > >>> manual) I've been patient hoping that it's just a drive cycle issue. > >>> Well I've gone over 2,000 miles and still no go. They are still "Not > >>> ready". I broke down and took it to a mechanic. They said that all of > >>> the sensors are testing fine and that it must be a problem with the ECM. > >>> He mentioned that the dealership might possibly be able to "re-flash" > >>> the computer. Otherwise I would need a new ECM. So I called the > >>> dealership and they said that they don't know of any flash update for my > >>> vehicle and to bring it in so they can look it up by VIN and see whats > >>> going on. They said that if they could flash it that it would cost > >>> about $125.00. Well I've looked around and I think I can find a used > >>> and tested ECM for about the same price. The problem is that I don't > >>> want to order one and find out that it doesn't work because it doesn't > >>> match my trucks features exactly. > >>> > >>> What would you guys do? Any suggestions? HELP! > >>> > >>> Thanks, > >>> Dante > >> > >> During my time as a district service manager, I encountered exactly ZERO > >> ECM's that were actually bad, and in speaking with the person who was in > >> charge of the facility that tested and repaired ECM's that were returned > >> under warranty, only 1 or 2 ECM's every 2 years or so were actually bad. > >> In other words, it is literally something like a one in a million chance > >> that the ECM is actually bad. > >> > >> In most cases where changing the ECM fixed a problem, it was probably a > >> loose connection between the ECM and the harness, and the process of > >> swapping ECM's cured the problem. > >> > >> My recommendation is that you unplug the ECM, carefully check each > >> connector pin on the wire harness side, and then re-plug the harness into > >> the ECM, and if that does not work, take a look at the factory service > >> manual. > >> > >> Drive cycles are specific to each vehicle so unfortunately, there is no > >> generic drive cycle that will get any OBD II-equipped vehicle in a ready > >> state. To make things more difficult, part of the drive cycle usually > >> includes a specific time period where the vehicle is parked so if you > >> don't park it long enough or too long, then the ECM won't acknowledge > >> that the drive cycle has been completed. The specific drive cycle for > >> your vehicle should be in the factory service manual, which you can > >> access on line at techinfo.toyota.com for $10/day. While you are rootin > >> around in there, the factory service manual will have hints on fixing > >> your problem. > >> > >> IMO,. a $10 investment to peek at the factory service manual is less $$ > >> than buying an ECM that you may or may not need. > >> > >> -- > >> > >> Ray O > >> (correct punctuation to reply) > >> > > > > I think it's a safe bet that everyone who reads this news group will agree > > with me when I say, > > FOLLOW RAY'S ADVICE! You could not get better advice in these areas.... > > > > > > Thanks Ray > > > > Thanks for the vote of confidence! Hopefully, the OP will find something > other than a bad ECU. > > > -- > > Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Q on 8 Sep 2006 20:06 Ray, The ECM in my 93 Toyota pickup went bad. The dealer had the truck for over 2 months while trying to diagnose the problem. Finally they diagnosed it as the ECM by swapping it with one from another truck. Then they wanted to sell me a new one for $1100.00. I replaced it with one from a junk yard for $125.00 and all is well. Q Ray O wrote: > During my time as a district service manager, I encountered exactly ZERO > ECM's that were actually bad, and in speaking with the person who was in > charge of the facility that tested and repaired ECM's that were returned > under warranty, only 1 or 2 ECM's every 2 years or so were actually bad. In > other words, it is literally something like a one in a million chance that > the ECM is actually bad. > > In most cases where changing the ECM fixed a problem, it was probably a > loose connection between the ECM and the harness, and the process of > swapping ECM's cured the problem. > > My recommendation is that you unplug the ECM, carefully check each connector > pin on the wire harness side, and then re-plug the harness into the ECM, and > if that does not work, take a look at the factory service manual. > > Drive cycles are specific to each vehicle so unfortunately, there is no > generic drive cycle that will get any OBD II-equipped vehicle in a ready > state. To make things more difficult, part of the drive cycle usually > includes a specific time period where the vehicle is parked so if you don't > park it long enough or too long, then the ECM won't acknowledge that the > drive cycle has been completed. The specific drive cycle for your vehicle > should be in the factory service manual, which you can access on line at > techinfo.toyota.com for $10/day. While you are rootin around in there, the > factory service manual will have hints on fixing your problem. > > IMO,. a $10 investment to peek at the factory service manual is less $$ than > buying an ECM that you may or may not need. >
From: Ray O on 8 Sep 2006 21:50 "Q" <hugemoth(a)access4less.net> wrote in message news:CAnMg.9291$xQ1.5118(a)newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Ray, > > The ECM in my 93 Toyota pickup went bad. The dealer had the truck for over > 2 months while trying to diagnose the problem. Finally they diagnosed it > as the ECM by swapping it with one from another truck. Then they wanted to > sell me a new one for $1100.00. I replaced it with one from a junk yard > for $125.00 and all is well. > > Q I've run across that scenario a few times, where someone tries everything except the ECM, and when they finally swap the ECM, the problem is solved. When the ECM is sent to the lab for testing and repair, they do not find anything wrong and when it is re-used, the problem never appears. According to the head guy at the lab, the process of unplugging and re-plugging the ECM seems to cure the problem. Like I said, they do run across one or two that test bad every year or two, it sounds like yours was one of the rare failures. Have you played the state lottery lately? ;-) -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Q on 8 Sep 2006 22:59 Ray, Yes, this one was truly bad. When they plugged my ECM into the other truck, the other truck ran just like mine did. Also I had the ECM out several times to check the connectors, wiring, and internal soldered connections. I suspect a bad power transistor that drives the ignition coil/ignitor. Q > > I've run across that scenario a few times, where someone tries everything > except the ECM, and when they finally swap the ECM, the problem is solved. > When the ECM is sent to the lab for testing and repair, they do not find > anything wrong and when it is re-used, the problem never appears. According > to the head guy at the lab, the process of unplugging and re-plugging the > ECM seems to cure the problem. Like I said, they do run across one or two > that test bad every year or two, it sounds like yours was one of the rare > failures. Have you played the state lottery lately? ;-)
From: Dante on 11 Sep 2006 13:39
So I finally got it to recognize a drive cycle.... (Thanks Ray for the suggestion of downloading the drive cycle from Techinfo.toyota.com) The check engine light came on. The code is P0130. Malfunction with heated o2 circuit bank 1 sensor 1. I ran a couple of tests on both o2 sensors and both of the heater elements measure about 12 - 16 ohms. The Hayes manual says that they should only be about 5-8 ohms or so. My question is what should I do from this point? Should I just replace both sensors? Could it be something other than the sensors? By the way... the previous owner must have bottomed out while going offroad or something because the downstream sensor is slightly bent and a little of the wire is showing through the insulation. Thanks in advance, Dante Q wrote: > Ray, > > Yes, this one was truly bad. When they plugged my ECM into the other > truck, the other truck ran just like mine did. Also I had the ECM out > several times to check the connectors, wiring, and internal soldered > connections. I suspect a bad power transistor that drives the ignition > coil/ignitor. > > Q > >> >> I've run across that scenario a few times, where someone tries >> everything except the ECM, and when they finally swap the ECM, the >> problem is solved. When the ECM is sent to the lab for testing and >> repair, they do not find anything wrong and when it is re-used, the >> problem never appears. According to the head guy at the lab, the >> process of unplugging and re-plugging the ECM seems to cure the >> problem. Like I said, they do run across one or two that test bad >> every year or two, it sounds like yours was one of the rare failures. >> Have you played the state lottery lately? ;-) |