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From: Adrien.Beaudin on 7 Aug 2006 12:37 > I'm assuming that you scribed the driveshaft so that you could reinstall the > same way it came out? Can't say for sure - I had a shop do it - limited toolset here :( > If not, that could be where your problem lies. You could experiment with > resetting the u-joints in new configurations (one at a time, please) & see > if that eliminates your vibration. balancing the driveshaft would have the same effect yes? > BTW there should be no detectable side to side play where your driveshaft is > splined to your transmission. If so, you'll want to replace the splined > portion of the driveshaft and hope that this cures it. Assuming that side to side play is the same as up and down in this case right? Thanks -a > Mike Harris > Austin, TX
From: Mike Harris on 7 Aug 2006 12:46 <Adrien.Beaudin(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:1154968630.386118.245770(a)h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > >> I'm assuming that you scribed the driveshaft so that you could reinstall >> the >> same way it came out? > > Can't say for sure - I had a shop do it - limited toolset here :( So... is there a particular reason why you aren't having the shop at least try to fix it? >> If not, that could be where your problem lies. You could experiment with >> resetting the u-joints in new configurations (one at a time, please) & >> see >> if that eliminates your vibration. > > balancing the driveshaft would have the same effect yes? Not necessarily, unless they balanced it while on the vehicle. >> BTW there should be no detectable side to side play where your driveshaft >> is >> splined to your transmission. If so, you'll want to replace the splined >> portion of the driveshaft and hope that this cures it. > > Assuming that side to side play is the same as up and down in this case > right? Correct - and assuming that it is truly play between your transmission and the driveshaft and not the whole tailpiece of the transmission moving up and down on a loose or broken transmission mount. -- Mike Harris Austin, TX
From: Adrien.Beaudin on 7 Aug 2006 12:59 > > Can't say for sure - I had a shop do it - limited toolset here :( > > So... is there a particular reason why you aren't having the shop at least > try to fix it? I was going to do it myself but I couldn't get the joint out so I took the driveshaft itself to the shop and reinstalled it myself Not sure how keen they'll be on diagnosing the problem now.. > >> BTW there should be no detectable side to side play where your driveshaft > >> is > >> splined to your transmission. If so, you'll want to replace the splined > >> portion of the driveshaft and hope that this cures it. > > > > Assuming that side to side play is the same as up and down in this case > > right? > > Correct - and assuming that it is truly play between your transmission and > the driveshaft and not the whole tailpiece of the transmission moving up and > down on a loose or broken transmission mount. I'll check the mounts tonight and if they look good I'll take it to a transmission/driveline shop tomorrow Thanks -a
From: SnoMan on 7 Aug 2006 13:46 On 7 Aug 2006 08:54:33 -0700, Adrien.Beaudin(a)gmail.com wrote: >No lift on this > >It's a 2wd, everything is stock - I have a 325lb wildernest camper on >it at the moment and the springs are sagging a bit (I'm putting a pair >of supersprings on it this evening) Okay, my take on this is drive shaft joint angles. WHith age on load the springs settle and twist a bit from input torque and change drive driveline angle and Ujoints are constant velocity. You need to make sure angle are the same on both ends of driveshaft for starters. (the reason it does it is one gear at 40 and not another is because the lower gear can apply more drive shaft torque which can wind springs up more and change u joint angle more on rear axle connection. You might also pull drive shaft and have it rebalanced if everytighing else checks out. (Note, the rear joint should be tipped down with a bit more angel that front when static because it will tend to rise when torque is applied. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
From: Mike Harris on 7 Aug 2006 13:50
<Adrien.Beaudin(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:1154969963.802428.28480(a)b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... >> > Can't say for sure - I had a shop do it - limited toolset here :( >> >> So... is there a particular reason why you aren't having the shop at >> least >> try to fix it? > > I was going to do it myself but I couldn't get the joint out so I took > the driveshaft itself to the shop and reinstalled it myself > > Not sure how keen they'll be on diagnosing the problem now.. Okay... that explains a lot... Back to my original question - did YOU scribe or otherwise mark your driveshaft so that you could reinstall it in the same orientation that you removed it, not 180 degrees out at the rear? Did you reinstall it properly? Cups centered in the rear yoke? No dirt, rocks, twigs or wooly mammoth in the yoke which might have interfered with the cups seating properly in the yoke? The joint itself is properly lubed with all needle bearings in place? All lock washers present and accounted for? And... just to play Captain Obvious for a minute - did the vibration exist BEFORE you changed your u-joints? Was there a specific problem that you wanted to remedy or were you doing it "on spec?" -- Mike Harris Austin, TX |