An actual car post...
in [Toyota]
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From: Hachiroku ハチロク on 11 Oct 2009 21:56 On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:23:54 -0500, Ray O wrote: > > "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message > news:pan.2009.10.12.01.25.03.131892(a)e86.GTS... >> On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:50:17 -0500, Ray O wrote: >> >> >>> "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message >>> news:pan.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484(a)e86.GTS... >>>> On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>> "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message >>>>> news:pan.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692(a)e86.GTS... >>>>>> On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>>> Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was >>>>>>>> flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was >>>>>>>> building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a >>>>>>>> SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't >>>>>>>> see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the >>>>>>>> cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the >>>>>>> interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose >>>>>>> flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a >>>>>>> spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in >>>>>>> question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston >>>>>>> and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is >>>>>>> suspect. >>>>>> >>>>>> Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this... >>>>>> >>>>>> This is NOT good news... >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the >>>>> flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the >>>>> metal >>>>> brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will >>>>> probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. >>>>> IIRC, you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on >>>>> a Subie. >>>> >>>> I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. >>>> Yeah, they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed >>>> it with GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) >>>> and the hose is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby >>>> dealer. Most of the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!) >>>> >>>> >>> GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service >>> department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a >>> couple of cans handy >> >> Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you >> get it from Chevy or Buick. >> >> > Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick? In my case, Buick!
From: Ray O on 11 Oct 2009 23:04 "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message news:pan.2009.10.12.01.56.29.612558(a)e86.GTS... > On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:23:54 -0500, Ray O wrote: > >> >> "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message >> news:pan.2009.10.12.01.25.03.131892(a)e86.GTS... >>> On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:50:17 -0500, Ray O wrote: >>> >>> >>>> "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message >>>> news:pan.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484(a)e86.GTS... >>>>> On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message >>>>>> news:pan.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692(a)e86.GTS... >>>>>>> On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was >>>>>>>>> flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was >>>>>>>>> building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a >>>>>>>>> SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't >>>>>>>>> see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the >>>>>>>>> cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the >>>>>>>> interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose >>>>>>>> flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a >>>>>>>> spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in >>>>>>>> question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston >>>>>>>> and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is >>>>>>>> suspect. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> This is NOT good news... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the >>>>>> flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the >>>>>> metal >>>>>> brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will >>>>>> probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. >>>>>> IIRC, you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on >>>>>> a Subie. >>>>> >>>>> I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. >>>>> Yeah, they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed >>>>> it with GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) >>>>> and the hose is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby >>>>> dealer. Most of the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!) >>>>> >>>>> >>>> GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service >>>> department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a >>>> couple of cans handy >>> >>> Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you >>> get it from Chevy or Buick. >>> >>> >> Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick? > > In my case, Buick! > I'll have to check out the local GM dealer parts department! -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Heron McKeister on 12 Oct 2009 13:51 "dsi1" <dsi1(a)spamnet.com> wrote in message news:c5wAm.14539$Lw1.2818(a)newsfe03.iad... > Hachiroku ???? wrote: > > On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 19:24:36 -0600, Vic Smith wrote: > > > >> But it's his car, so he knows how it should feel. > > > > Actually, it's only been mine for about 2 years, and winter only. What I > > DO remember is, when I park that car and then take my '89 Mazda for a > > spin, I almost put myself through the windshield when I hit the brakes the > > first time! > > > > The 84 GL station wagon I used to have had less than great brakes. Don't > expect too much. > > When you screw in the pistons, make sure you orient the slot on the > piston in the same direction that it was in. A pin in the pad fits in > that slot - it keeps the piston from rotating. > > The caliper design is pretty much a copy of a early 70's Fiat caliper > design. How odd! Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine, carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars.
From: Heron McKeister on 12 Oct 2009 13:56 "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message news:hau275$eut$1(a)news.eternal-september.org... > > "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message > news:pan.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484(a)e86.GTS... > > On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote: > > > >> > >> "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno(a)e86.GTS> wrote in message > >> news:pan.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692(a)e86.GTS... > >>> On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote: > >>> > >>>>> Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was > >>>>> flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was > >>>>> building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! > >>>>> and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see > >>>>> anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3 > >>>>> times the other day, it sure was dirty. > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>> When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the > >>>> interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap > >>>> from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel > >>>> with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying > >>>> the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and > >>>> sliders are free, then the hose is suspect. > >>> > >>> Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this... > >>> > >>> This is NOT good news... > >>> > >>> > >> Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the > >> flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the > >> metal > >> brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will probably > >> need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC, you will > >> need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie. > > > > I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah, > > they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with > > GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose > > is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of the > > parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!) > > > > GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service > department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a > couple of cans handy > -- > > Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply) Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once, given sufficient time, failed to perform par excellence.
From: Heron McKeister on 12 Oct 2009 13:59
<nm5k(a)wt.net> wrote in message news:ac0af270-712a-4095-abbc-688465934f96(a)x25g2000prf.googlegroups.com... > On Oct 10, 6:49 pm, Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B <Tru...(a)e86.GTS> wrote: > > > > > I'm going to try, very gingerly, to loosen the stuck bleeder tomorrow. > > I usually let em soak with rust buster for as long as possible. > Then carefully whack it with a hammer, wrench, etc on the head > of it to help break the rust loose from the threads. Pop it 2-3 times > if need be. They will usually come out after that. In addition, when no protective cap is present, I always also use a pin vise and drill rust, sediment, what have you from the hole to assist the rust penetrant to infiltrate. When assembling, I'm certain to install a cap and spread a very light smear of antiseize on the outermost meshing threads. |