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From: Ralph Mowery on 21 Jan 2010 18:28 "badgolferman" <REMOVETHISbadgolferman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:xn0gpen0ochbsz001(a)reader.albasani.net... > 1997 Camry 4 cylinder LE Automatic 180K miles > > Yes, the time has come for the 60K mile timing belt replacement. The > last two times I had the belt replaced the Toyota dealer told me the > water pump is fine and left it in. After 180K miles I am beginning to > think it should be replaced also. The Toyota dealer quoted over $700 > for these two procedures. To be fair they also included some other > seals and rings in that area. > > Apparently Toyota recommends 60K mile timing belt replacements on 1998 > and below vehicles and 90K mile replacement intervals on 1999 and above > vehicles. Why? Aren't the same belts and materials used between a 98 > and 99? > > I am seriously considering just taking it to a local garage for the > work. Their quote was under $500 but I'm not sure yet if that included > all the seals and rings that get replaced. If I buy the parts from the > dealer it is around $275. How much inferior would the parts be that a > local garage would use? When I had a 91 Camry my independant garage would only use OEM toyota parts. He seemed to do good work at a good price. I had the water pump replaced as the labor was 'free' with the belt change. I usually had the hoses and other minor things changed at the same time. Again 'free' labor as the old parts were already taken off and would have been put back on. It may cost a few more dollars, but worth it for piece of mind.
From: nm5k on 21 Jan 2010 20:31 On Jan 21, 12:23 pm, FatterDumber& Happier Moe <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote: One of the questions I'd have for any mechanic > that works on it is, how do you torque the crankshaft bolt when you > tighten it? I use an impact wrench. I've tried torquing them with normal torque wrenches, but it's hard to keep the engine from turning. So I get them as tight as I can with a torque wrench, and then I give them a blip with the impact. If you are used to the impact, you can get close enough for gov work. Just a quick blip will do the trick. When removing the nut, I usually use the starter motor to knock it loose if no impact wrench is around. I don't have an impact here. The last one I did I got it as tight as I could, and then drove it around the block to a guy who had an impact wrench in his garage. :/
From: in2dadark on 21 Jan 2010 21:11 On Jan 21, 4:40 pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...(a)Yahoo.com> wrote: > On Jan 21, 11:40 am, "badgolferman" <REMOVETHISbadgolfer...(a)gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > > > > 1997 Camry 4 cylinder LE Automatic 180K miles > > > Yes, the time has come for the 60K mile timing belt replacement. The > > last two times I had the belt replaced the Toyota dealer told me the > > water pump is fine and left it in. After 180K miles I am beginning to > > think it should be replaced also. The Toyota dealer quoted over $700 > > for these two procedures. To be fair they also included some other > > seals and rings in that area. > > > Apparently Toyota recommends 60K mile timing belt replacements on 1998 > > and below vehicles and 90K mile replacement intervals on 1999 and above > > vehicles. Why? Aren't the same belts and materials used between a 98 > > and 99? > > > I am seriously considering just taking it to a local garage for the > > work. Their quote was under $500 but I'm not sure yet if that included > > all the seals and rings that get replaced. If I buy the parts from the > > dealer it is around $275. How much inferior would the parts be that a > > local garage would use? > > 700 is way to much, dealers often do specials on timing belts and > pumps, even 500 is high, shop around- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - I paid 4 and change for both last time at a dealer. But that was 70k miles ago. I'd say 5 is ok. And I guess it would depend on what seals are being replaced.
From: in2dadark on 21 Jan 2010 21:18 On Jan 21, 4:07 pm, spsffan <spsf...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > ron wrote: > > I haven't had a timing belt done but a few years ago did a complete 60K > > service on my 02 Highlander (inc front pads). I found a factory trained > > independent Toyota mechanic that used ALL Toyota factory parts and he > > was just damned near half of what the dealer wanted, and the dealer > > brought the parts while I was there! > > > So I'd suggest looking for one. > > > Ron > > > --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: n...(a)netfront.net --- > > Good advise! Many independent specialists are both lower priced and > perform higher quality work overall that you can get at a typical > dealer. Of course, some don't. Look for one that has been around a long > time and where the shop is always busy. > > But I always wonder about the term "factory trained" for an automobile > mechanic. I see this all the time, and it just doesn't make sense. > > It seems to me that those who work in automobile factories just slap the > same parts in the same place all day long, day in, day out, and don't > have or need any particular knowledge beyond how to do that. > Furthermore, what particular know how would one get from dealing with > brand new cars fresh off the assembly line? What the world needs is > mechanics that can fix and maintain cars that have seen actual road > service. > > This is not to say that the manufacturers don't indeed have mechanic > schools, and I'm pretty sure that most do. But that isn't the factory. Factory trained means they either went to an off site location or had on site training from toyota. It doesn't mean they went to the factory to build cars. They aren't mechanics now. Automobiles require 'Technicians' now.ie.. Ray O... i was an ASE certified Tech. Which I'm certain Ray O is. I also have an associates degree in the automotive field. I can tell you with all my training there were techs who could wrench circles around me at many dealerships. Competition is high to get those 'flat rate' jobs and they are VERY good at what they do. And they have a great deal of pride in and love for their work..
From: Tegger on 21 Jan 2010 22:17
"badgolferman" <REMOVETHISbadgolferman(a)gmail.com> wrote in news:xn0gpen0ochbsz001(a)reader.albasani.net: > 1997 Camry 4 cylinder LE Automatic 180K miles > > Yes, the time has come for the 60K mile timing belt replacement. The > last two times I had the belt replaced the Toyota dealer told me the > water pump is fine and left it in. After 180K miles I am beginning to > think it should be replaced also. Never a /bad/ idea, but expensive. That pump is close to $250, isn't it? Two things will tell the dealer if the pump needs replacing: 1) how the bearing spins, and 2) if it's leaking or not. If the bearing still spins with a bit of resistance and has no play to speak of, then it's still good. > The Toyota dealer quoted over $700 > for these two procedures. To be fair they also included some other > seals and rings in that area. Probably the cam and crank seals, and maybe the tensioner as well. There's extra work involved to get at those. > > Apparently Toyota recommends 60K mile timing belt replacements on 1998 > and below vehicles and 90K mile replacement intervals on 1999 and > above vehicles. Why? Aren't the same belts and materials used > between a 98 and 99? Are you going by the Owner's Manual for your '97? It's possible the 60K recommendation is simply outdated and that the belt has been redesigned to last longer. In that case, of course, they couldn't go back and rewrite your Manual, so it would continue to show the lesser mileage. Honda increased its belt change interval around that same time, so maybe there was a change in belt design. I'd have to look it up. > > I am seriously considering just taking it to a local garage for the > work. Their quote was under $500 but I'm not sure yet if that > included all the seals and rings that get replaced. Better make sure! Also make sure they're using Toyota coolant. > If I buy the parts from the > dealer it is around $275. How much inferior would the parts be that a > local garage would use? Much. Ask the local guys to buy their parts from the dealer. They'll get a 15-25% discount, which they'll then mark up so the price you see is the same as the dealer's retail -- Tegger |