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From: Michael on 21 Mar 2010 16:21
On Mar 21, 10:52 am, Michael <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mar 21, 10:08 am, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > "FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote in
> > messagenews:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
>
> > > Ray O wrote:
> > >> "Asbjørn" <asbj...(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
> > >>news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
> > >>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
> > >>>news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
> > >>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> > >>> wrote:
> > >>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > >>>>news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
>
> > >>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
> > >>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
> > >>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
> > >>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
> > >>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
> > >>>>> Thanks,
> > >>>>> Michael
> > >>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>
> > >>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
> > >>>> glasses
> > >>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so
> > >>>> that
> > >>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
> > >>>> install
> > >>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
> > >>>> --
>
> > >>>> Ray O
> > >>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>
> > >>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>
> > >>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would yoy
> > >>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on ? ;)
>
> > >> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the
> > >> flange that the studs are mounted in.  To remove the drum, you may have
> > >> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by an
> > >> oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate.  After backing
> > >> off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the threaded
> > >> openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts
> > >> alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>
> > >> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole.  To replace the
> > >> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in
> > >> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut.  You
> > >> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and tighten
> > >> the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
>
> > >   How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt?  I don't
> > > think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good sized.
>
> > I don't know how much torque it takes to twist of a Toyota wheel stud but I
> > would imagine it takes well north of 100 foot pounds.
>
> > A more common problem is cross threading.
> > --
>
> > Ray O
> > (correct punctuation to reply)
>
> Yep it started with a cross-threaded nut... then it came off, taking
> off maybe 1/4 inch of threads on the stud with it.
>
> I'm tempted to just Dremel off the bad 1/4 inch of the stud, and get
> another lug nut... should be better than just 4 out of 5 lug
> nuts... ???
>
> Michael


This helps a bit (visuals):
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/wheel_stud_repl.htm

Just have to study how to remove the brake drum assembly...
From: Michael on 21 Mar 2010 16:59
On Mar 21, 12:21 pm, Michael <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mar 21, 10:52 am, Michael <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Mar 21, 10:08 am, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > "FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote in
> > > messagenews:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
>
> > > > Ray O wrote:
> > > >> "Asbjørn" <asbj...(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
> > > >>news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
> > > >>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
> > > >>>news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups..com...
> > > >>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> > > >>> wrote:
> > > >>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >>>>news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups..com...
>
> > > >>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
> > > >>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
> > > >>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
> > > >>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
> > > >>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
> > > >>>>> Thanks,
> > > >>>>> Michael
> > > >>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>
> > > >>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
> > > >>>> glasses
> > > >>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so
> > > >>>> that
> > > >>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
> > > >>>> install
> > > >>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
> > > >>>> --
>
> > > >>>> Ray O
> > > >>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>
> > > >>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>
> > > >>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would yoy
> > > >>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on ? ;)
>
> > > >> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the
> > > >> flange that the studs are mounted in.  To remove the drum, you may have
> > > >> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by an
> > > >> oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate.  After backing
> > > >> off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the threaded
> > > >> openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts
> > > >> alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>
> > > >> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole.  To replace the
> > > >> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in
> > > >> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut.  You
> > > >> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and tighten
> > > >> the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
>
> > > >   How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt?  I don't
> > > > think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good sized.
>
> > > I don't know how much torque it takes to twist of a Toyota wheel stud but I
> > > would imagine it takes well north of 100 foot pounds.
>
> > > A more common problem is cross threading.
> > > --
>
> > > Ray O
> > > (correct punctuation to reply)
>
> > Yep it started with a cross-threaded nut... then it came off, taking
> > off maybe 1/4 inch of threads on the stud with it.
>
> > I'm tempted to just Dremel off the bad 1/4 inch of the stud, and get
> > another lug nut... should be better than just 4 out of 5 lug
> > nuts... ???
>
> > Michael
>
> This helps a bit (visuals):http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/wheel_stud_repl.htm
>
> Just have to study how to remove the brake drum assembly...


Oh whoops I get it now... just remove the brake drum, but not the
brake shoes, right? I thought I had to remove the brake shoes,
springs, etc. But the drum itself, that's pretty easy... did that
before.
From: hls on 21 Mar 2010 17:34

"Obveeus" <Obveeus(a)aol.com> wrote in message news:ho5a92
>
> Hammering it out sounds like a very bad idea (easily to elongate the hole
> so that a new stud won't fit in tightly). It would be better to use an
> actual press...or at least try using a vise or two (slowly tightening the
> vise(s) so as to act as a 'press').
>

Absolutely right.. Use a press or special tool whenever you can.

From: Mike Hunter on 21 Mar 2010 18:18
You forgot inferior quality lug nut and bolts.


"Asbj�rn" <asbjust(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
news:ho5p4m$ko1$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote in
> message news:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
>> Ray O wrote:
>>> "Asbj�rn" <asbjust(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
>>> news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>>> "Michael" <mrdarrett(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>>>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>>
>>>>> news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>
>>>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
>>>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
>>>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
>>>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
>>>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Michael
>>>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>>>>>
>>>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
>>>>> glasses
>>>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so
>>>>> that
>>>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
>>>>> install
>>>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>> Ray O
>>>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>>>>
>>>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>>>>
>>>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would yoy
>>>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on ? ;)
>>>>
>>>
>>> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the
>>> flange that the studs are mounted in. To remove the drum, you may have
>>> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by
>>> an oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate. After
>>> backing off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the
>>> threaded openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts
>>> alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>>>
>>> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole. To replace the
>>> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in
>>> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut. You
>>> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and tighten
>>> the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
>>
>> How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt? I don't
>> think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good
>> sized.
>
> On my previous Corollas that has happened to me three or four times in 8
> years, when loosening the nuts.
> The cause was probably combinations of some of the following:
> - too high tightening torque from the tyre shop,
> - binding from corrosion (road salt),
> - badly designed wrench (angled arm).
>
> Asbj�rn
>
>


From: Ray O on 21 Mar 2010 18:26

"Michael" <mrdarrett(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
news:e935eea9-7319-4ae5-b14c-ca7f29ccb5f5(a)f13g2000pra.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 21, 12:21 pm, Michael <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mar 21, 10:52 am, Michael <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Mar 21, 10:08 am, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > "FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote
> > > in
> > > messagenews:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
>
> > > > Ray O wrote:
> > > >> "Asbj�rn" <asbj...(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
> > > >>news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
> > > >>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
> > > >>>news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
> > > >>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O"
> > > >>> <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> > > >>> wrote:
> > > >>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >>>>news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > >>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
> > > >>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt
> > > >>>>> to
> > > >>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused.
> > > >>>>> Must
> > > >>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
> > > >>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
> > > >>>>> Thanks,
> > > >>>>> Michael
> > > >>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>
> > > >>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
> > > >>>> glasses
> > > >>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted
> > > >>>> on so
> > > >>>> that
> > > >>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
> > > >>>> install
> > > >>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
> > > >>>> --
>
> > > >>>> Ray O
> > > >>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>
> > > >>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>
> > > >>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would
> > > >>> yoy
> > > >>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on
> > > >>> ? ;)
>
> > > >> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind
> > > >> the
> > > >> flange that the studs are mounted in. To remove the drum, you may
> > > >> have
> > > >> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered
> > > >> by an
> > > >> oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate. After
> > > >> backing
> > > >> off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the
> > > >> threaded
> > > >> openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts
> > > >> alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>
> > > >> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole. To replace
> > > >> the
> > > >> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the
> > > >> hole in
> > > >> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut.
> > > >> You
> > > >> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and
> > > >> tighten
> > > >> the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
>
> > > > How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt? I don't
> > > > think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good
> > > > sized.
>
> > > I don't know how much torque it takes to twist of a Toyota wheel stud
> > > but I
> > > would imagine it takes well north of 100 foot pounds.
>
> > > A more common problem is cross threading.
> > > --
>
> > > Ray O
> > > (correct punctuation to reply)
>
> > Yep it started with a cross-threaded nut... then it came off, taking
> > off maybe 1/4 inch of threads on the stud with it.
>
> > I'm tempted to just Dremel off the bad 1/4 inch of the stud, and get
> > another lug nut... should be better than just 4 out of 5 lug
> > nuts... ???
>
> > Michael
>
> This helps a bit
> (visuals):http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/wheel_stud_repl.htm
>
> Just have to study how to remove the brake drum assembly...


Oh whoops I get it now... just remove the brake drum, but not the
brake shoes, right? I thought I had to remove the brake shoes,
springs, etc. But the drum itself, that's pretty easy... did that
before.

********
Right, just remove the brake drum.

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


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