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From: Ray O on 21 Mar 2010 13:45

"Obveeus" <Obveeus(a)aol.com> wrote in message
news:ho5a92$amv$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
> news:ho4egp$3m8$3(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> "Michael" <mrdarrett(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
>>> the drum brakes come out too?
>>>
>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Michael
>>
>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>>
>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
>> glasses when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted
>> on so that there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose.
>> When you install the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
>
> Hammering it out sounds like a very bad idea (easily to elongate the hole
> so that a new stud won't fit in tightly). It would be better to use an
> actual press...or at least try using a vise or two (slowly tightening the
> vise(s) so as to act as a 'press').
>

There is a special service tool that looks like a c-clamp, with the base of
the clamp being more of a c-shape. Screwing down on the clamp on the top of
the stud pushes the stud through, and the opening at the base of the clamp
allows the stud to move past. I've never looked, but auto parts stores
might sell or lend the tool.

A press or vice would theoretically be better than a hammer because the
force would be applied perpendicular to the flange, but to use a press, the
flange and hub would have to be disassembled, which is more work. The stud
is made of softer material than the flange, so it should deform before the
flange does.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


From: Ray O on 21 Mar 2010 14:08

"FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote in
message news:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
> Ray O wrote:
>> "Asbj�rn" <asbjust(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
>> news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>> "Michael" <mrdarrett(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>
>>>> news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
>>>>
>>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
>>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
>>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
>>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
>>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Michael
>>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>>>>
>>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
>>>> glasses
>>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so
>>>> that
>>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
>>>> install
>>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> Ray O
>>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>>>
>>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>>>
>>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would yoy
>>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on ? ;)
>>>
>>
>> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the
>> flange that the studs are mounted in. To remove the drum, you may have
>> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by an
>> oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate. After backing
>> off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the threaded
>> openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts
>> alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>>
>> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole. To replace the
>> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in
>> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut. You
>> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and tighten
>> the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
>
> How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt? I don't
> think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good sized.

I don't know how much torque it takes to twist of a Toyota wheel stud but I
would imagine it takes well north of 100 foot pounds.

A more common problem is cross threading.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


From: Asbj�rn on 21 Mar 2010 14:39

"FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote in
message news:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
> Ray O wrote:
>> "Asbj�rn" <asbjust(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
>> news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>> "Michael" <mrdarrett(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>
>>>> news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
>>>>
>>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
>>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
>>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
>>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
>>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Michael
>>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>>>>
>>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
>>>> glasses
>>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so
>>>> that
>>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
>>>> install
>>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> Ray O
>>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>>>
>>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>>>
>>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would yoy
>>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on ? ;)
>>>
>>
>> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the
>> flange that the studs are mounted in. To remove the drum, you may have
>> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by an
>> oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate. After backing
>> off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the threaded
>> openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts
>> alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>>
>> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole. To replace the
>> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in
>> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut. You
>> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and tighten
>> the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
>
> How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt? I don't
> think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good sized.

On my previous Corollas that has happened to me three or four times in 8
years, when loosening the nuts.
The cause was probably combinations of some of the following:
- too high tightening torque from the tyre shop,
- binding from corrosion (road salt),
- badly designed wrench (angled arm).

Asbj�rn


From: Michael on 21 Mar 2010 14:52
On Mar 21, 10:08 am, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
wrote:
> "FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote in
> messagenews:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
>
>
>
> > Ray O wrote:
> >> "Asbjørn" <asbj...(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
> >>news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
> >>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
> >>>news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com....
> >>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >>>>news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com....
>
> >>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
> >>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
> >>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
> >>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
> >>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes).
> >>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>> Michael
> >>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>
> >>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
> >>>> glasses
> >>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so
> >>>> that
> >>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
> >>>> install
> >>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut.
> >>>> --
>
> >>>> Ray O
> >>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>
> >>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>
> >>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would yoy
> >>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on ? ;)
>
> >> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the
> >> flange that the studs are mounted in.  To remove the drum, you may have
> >> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by an
> >> oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate.  After backing
> >> off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in the threaded
> >> openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the bolts
> >> alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>
> >> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole.  To replace the
> >> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in
> >> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut.  You
> >> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and tighten
> >> the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats itself.
>
> >   How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt?  I don't
> > think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good sized.
>
> I don't know how much torque it takes to twist of a Toyota wheel stud but I
> would imagine it takes well north of 100 foot pounds.
>
> A more common problem is cross threading.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)


Yep it started with a cross-threaded nut... then it came off, taking
off maybe 1/4 inch of threads on the stud with it.

I'm tempted to just Dremel off the bad 1/4 inch of the stud, and get
another lug nut... should be better than just 4 out of 5 lug
nuts... ???

Michael
From: Hachiroku ハチロク on 21 Mar 2010 15:03
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:39:12 +0100, Asbjørn wrote:

>
> "FatterDumber& Happier Moe" <"WheresMyCheck"@UncleSamLoves.Mee> wrote in
> message news:4ba65499$0$12436$bbae4d71(a)news.suddenlink.net...
>> Ray O wrote:
>>> "Asbjørn" <asbjust(a)frisurf.no> wrote in message
>>> news:ho4iid$85r$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>>> "Michael" <mrdarrett(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d1c943e8-3851-4681-ba39-6451b566a333(a)s36g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>>>> On Mar 20, 10:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> "Michael" <mrdarr...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>>
>>>>> news:76bcf8ce-1474-4e3c-b98c-06813b8fa903(a)g1g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>
>>>>>> Subject says it all. While rotating tires, managed to ruin the
>>>>>> threads on a bolt the lug nut screws into. How hard is the bolt to
>>>>>> replace? Looking at the Haynes manual and I'm a bit confused. Must
>>>>>> the drum brakes come out too?
>>>>>> '99 Camry, rear tire, drum brakes (not disc brakes). Thanks,
>>>>>> Michael
>>>>> The piece you are referring to is called a stud, not a bolt.
>>>>>
>>>>> You should be able to tap it out with a brass hammer. Wear safety
>>>>> glasses
>>>>> when you strike the stud. Rotate the flange the stud is mounted on so
>>>>> that
>>>>> there is clearance behind the stud for when it is loose. When you
>>>>> install
>>>>> the replacement stud, pull it back out with a lug nut. --
>>>>>
>>>>> Ray O
>>>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>>>>
>>>> So no need to remove any brake drums?
>>>>
>>>> How would you look for clearance behind the stud, and how would yoy
>>>> grasp the stud and get the new one in the flange with the drum on ? ;)
>>>>
>>>>
>>> You have to remove the brake drum to get access to the space behind the
>>> flange that the studs are mounted in. To remove the drum, you may have
>>> to back off of the brake adjuster through the oval opening, covered by
>>> an oval rubber plug, on inboard side of the backing plate. After
>>> backing off the adjuster, if the drum is still stuck, use 2 bolts in
>>> the threaded openings on the outboard face of the drum, tightening the
>>> bolts alternately a few turns at a time until the drum pops off.
>>>
>>> Tap the shank of the stud to push it back in the hole. To replace the
>>> stud, just use your fingers to push it as far as you can in the hole in
>>> the flange, thread a lug nut on the new stud, and pull on the nut. You
>>> can put a stack of washers on the stud, install the lug nut, and
>>> tighten the nut until the stud pulls through all the way and seats
>>> itself.
>>
>> How much torque does it take to twist off a Toyota lug bolt? I don't
>> think I've ever twisted off a Toyota lug bolt, they are pretty good
>> sized.
>
> On my previous Corollas that has happened to me three or four times in 8
> years, when loosening the nuts.
> The cause was probably combinations of some of the following: - too high
> tightening torque from the tyre shop, - binding from corrosion (road
> salt), - badly designed wrench (angled arm).
>
> Asbjørn


I throw a little bit of Dielectric grease or soap-based brake grease on
the lug nuts.

They don't come loose when properly torqued, and it saves a lot when the
wheel needs to be removed!


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