How to remove EGR valve?
in [Toyota Camry]
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From: mrdarrett on 3 Apr 2007 01:33 I'm trying to remove my EGR valve for cleaning ('96 camry, 141k miles, 4-cyl). There's one nut connecting the exhaust pipe to the EGR valve, that I absolutely cannot get off. I tried a plumbers' wrench, to get down that far - just can't get enough torque on that nut. Any suggestions? Just verifying, that nut tightens clockwise, right? (Loosens counter- clockwise?) So, since the nut is on upside down, I should turn it clockwise (looking down on it from above) to loosen, right? Michael
From: Daniel on 3 Apr 2007 09:47 mrdarrett(a)gmail.com wrote: > I'm trying to remove my EGR valve for cleaning ('96 camry, 141k miles, > 4-cyl). There's one nut connecting the exhaust pipe to the EGR valve, > that I absolutely cannot get off. I tried a plumbers' wrench, to get > down that far - just can't get enough torque on that nut. == First of all, are you sure it needs cleaning? If you can apply vaccum and the engine stalls at idle, the valve is working. Second the plumber's wrench is for plumbing! You need the proper tools to avoid ruining that nut. Always use penetrating oil on exhaust fasteners like that. Let it soak in. Kroil is one of the best. You need a flare nut wrench, or even better a crow foot wrench. If you're describiing the nut near the mainfold, removing the distributor will make it more accessible. BTW I've got a 1977 Toyota truck and the EGR valve on that still works just fine.
From: mrdarrett on 3 Apr 2007 12:01 On Apr 3, 6:47 am, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > I'm trying to remove my EGR valve for cleaning ('96 camry, 141k miles, > > 4-cyl). There's one nut connecting the exhaust pipe to the EGR valve, > > that I absolutely cannot get off. I tried a plumbers' wrench, to get > > down that far - just can't get enough torque on that nut. > > == > First of all, are you sure it needs cleaning? I'm positive. Disconnecting and plugging (with a 3-inch nail) the vacuum hose to my EGR valve = no more stalling! Now for a take-apart and cleaning. Just bought the EGR valve-to- intake manifold gasket yesterday. > If you can apply vaccum and the engine stalls at idle, the valve is > working. > Second the plumber's wrench is for plumbing! You need the proper tools > to avoid ruining that nut. Sorry, I'd meant to say "basin wrench". (I tried using the plumber's wrench on the basin wrench for extra torque. No go.) > Always use penetrating oil on exhaust fasteners like that. Let it soak > in. Kroil is one of the best. Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > You need a flare nut wrench, or even better a crow foot wrench. > If you're describiing the nut near the mainfold, removing the > distributor will make it more accessible. > BTW I've got a 1977 Toyota truck and the EGR valve on that still works > just fine. Will get a crowfoot wrench too. Thanks, Michael
From: Daniel on 3 Apr 2007 19:06 mrdarrett(a)gmail.com wrote: > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. == Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from Internet sales or possibly gun shops. There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is full of anecdotes. > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. == What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality tools. If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex during use.
From: mrdarrett on 3 Apr 2007 19:32 On Apr 3, 4:06 pm, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > > == > Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from > Internet sales or possibly gun shops. > There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol > by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an > alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened > some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is > full of anecdotes. > > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. > > == > What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, > right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from > toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better > than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in > China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality > tools. > > If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare > nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of > fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the > flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex > during use. I couldn't find the Kroil, so I got some PB Blaster from AutoZone instead. The guy warned me not to get any of it on plastic or rubber (will destroy them). Ah, cheap crow foot flare nut wrenches! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138 Someday, when I'm wealthier, I'll invest in higher quality tools. This should get the job done for now, though. Thanks, Michael
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