How to remove EGR valve?
in [Toyota Camry]
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From: videokid400 on 3 Apr 2007 21:13 On Apr 4, 9:32 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > On Apr 3, 4:06 pm, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > > > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > > > == > > Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from > > Internet sales or possibly gun shops. > > There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol > > by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an > > alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened > > some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is > > full of anecdotes. > > > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. > > > == > > What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, > > right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from > > toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better > > than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in > > China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality > > tools. > > > If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare > > nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of > > fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the > > flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex > > during use. > > I couldn't find the Kroil, so I got some PB Blaster from AutoZone > instead. The guy warned me not to get any of it on plastic or rubber > (will destroy them). > > Ah, cheap crow foot flare nut wrenches!http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138 > > Someday, when I'm wealthier, I'll invest in higher quality tools. > This should get the job done for now, though. > > Thanks, > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - The flare nut you are describing quite often needs to be heated cherry red with oxy before you have any chance of moving it.Cleaning egr valves is not a good solution,quite often the fault is within the diaphram of the valve and cleaning will odviously not achive anything.If you manage to get the valve off , vacum test it to ensure that there is no leakage. Dave Strachan AIAME,Toyota master tech Australia
From: mrdarrett on 4 Apr 2007 12:23 On Apr 3, 6:13 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > On Apr 4, 9:32 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > > > On Apr 3, 4:06 pm, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > > > > == > > > Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from > > > Internet sales or possibly gun shops. > > > There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol > > > by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an > > > alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened > > > some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is > > > full of anecdotes. > > > > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. > > > > == > > > What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, > > > right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from > > > toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better > > > than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in > > > China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality > > > tools. > > > > If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare > > > nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of > > > fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the > > > flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex > > > during use. > > > I couldn't find the Kroil, so I got some PB Blaster from AutoZone > > instead. The guy warned me not to get any of it on plastic or rubber > > (will destroy them). > > > Ah, cheap crow foot flare nut wrenches!http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138 > > > Someday, when I'm wealthier, I'll invest in higher quality tools. > > This should get the job done for now, though. > > > Thanks, > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > The flare nut you are describing quite often needs to be heated cherry > red with oxy before you have any chance of moving it.Cleaning egr > valves is not a good solution,quite often the fault is within the > diaphram of the valve and cleaning will odviously not achive > anything.If you manage to get the valve off , vacum test it to ensure > that there is no leakage. > > Dave Strachan AIAME,Toyota master tech Australia- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - I went ahead and removed the EGR valve (and feed pipe) from the engine block. (Had to remove the throttle body yet again to access the nut with a giant adjustable wrench.) Soaked the innards of the EGR valve with throttle plate cleaner, then re-assembled. We'll see how that goes. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy a new EGR valve. Probably a new EGR feed pipe too. (Would a regular propane torch work? No oxyacetylene in my garage. Yet.) Thanks for the info. Michael
From: videokid400 on 4 Apr 2007 18:43 On Apr 5, 2:23 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > On Apr 3, 6:13 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > > > > > > > On Apr 4, 9:32 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > On Apr 3, 4:06 pm, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > > > > > == > > > > Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from > > > > Internet sales or possibly gun shops. > > > > There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol > > > > by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an > > > > alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened > > > > some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is > > > > full of anecdotes. > > > > > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. > > > > > == > > > > What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, > > > > right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from > > > > toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better > > > > than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in > > > > China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality > > > > tools. > > > > > If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare > > > > nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of > > > > fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the > > > > flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex > > > > during use. > > > > I couldn't find the Kroil, so I got some PB Blaster from AutoZone > > > instead. The guy warned me not to get any of it on plastic or rubber > > > (will destroy them). > > > > Ah, cheap crow foot flare nut wrenches!http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138 > > > > Someday, when I'm wealthier, I'll invest in higher quality tools. > > > This should get the job done for now, though. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > The flare nut you are describing quite often needs to be heated cherry > > red with oxy before you have any chance of moving it.Cleaning egr > > valves is not a good solution,quite often the fault is within the > > diaphram of the valve and cleaning will odviously not achive > > anything.If you manage to get the valve off , vacum test it to ensure > > that there is no leakage. > > > Dave Strachan AIAME,Toyota master tech Australia- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > I went ahead and removed the EGR valve (and feed pipe) from the engine > block. (Had to remove the throttle body yet again to access the nut > with a giant adjustable wrench.) Soaked the innards of the EGR valve > with throttle plate cleaner, then re-assembled. We'll see how that > goes. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy a new EGR valve. Probably > a new EGR feed pipe too. (Would a regular propane torch work? No > oxyacetylene in my garage. Yet.) > > Thanks for the info. > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Possibly prop torch would work its just you need a fair bit of heat.New egr sounds like a good idea,when replacing dont forget to use an anti seize compound on the flare nut....... stay safe , dave
From: Kurt on 5 Apr 2007 10:33 > I went ahead and removed the EGR valve (and feed pipe) from the engine > block. (Had to remove the throttle body yet again to access the nut > with a giant adjustable wrench.) Soaked the innards of the EGR valve > with throttle plate cleaner, then re-assembled. We'll see how that > goes. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy a new EGR valve. Probably > a new EGR feed pipe too. (Would a regular propane torch work? No > oxyacetylene in my garage. Yet.) > > Thanks for the info. > > Michael > Another option for cleaning EGR valves is oven cleaner. Propane torch will probably work. You don't always have to get things red hot to release. However, if you do get it red hot you'll lose the tempering of the metal. Just keep that in mind. Steel nuts and bolts start acting like brass. So replace what you can and be careful with what you can't.
From: mrdarrett on 6 Apr 2007 11:55 On Apr 4, 3:43 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > On Apr 5, 2:23 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > > > On Apr 3, 6:13 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > > > > On Apr 4, 9:32 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > On Apr 3, 4:06 pm, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > > > > > > == > > > > > Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from > > > > > Internet sales or possibly gun shops. > > > > > There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol > > > > > by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an > > > > > alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened > > > > > some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is > > > > > full of anecdotes. > > > > > > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. > > > > > > == > > > > > What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, > > > > > right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from > > > > > toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better > > > > > than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in > > > > > China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality > > > > > tools. > > > > > > If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare > > > > > nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of > > > > > fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the > > > > > flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex > > > > > during use. > > > > > I couldn't find the Kroil, so I got some PB Blaster from AutoZone > > > > instead. The guy warned me not to get any of it on plastic or rubber > > > > (will destroy them). > > > > > Ah, cheap crow foot flare nut wrenches!http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138 > > > > > Someday, when I'm wealthier, I'll invest in higher quality tools. > > > > This should get the job done for now, though. > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > > The flare nut you are describing quite often needs to be heated cherry > > > red with oxy before you have any chance of moving it.Cleaning egr > > > valves is not a good solution,quite often the fault is within the > > > diaphram of the valve and cleaning will odviously not achive > > > anything.If you manage to get the valve off , vacum test it to ensure > > > that there is no leakage. > > > > Dave Strachan AIAME,Toyota master tech Australia- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > I went ahead and removed the EGR valve (and feed pipe) from the engine > > block. (Had to remove the throttle body yet again to access the nut > > with a giant adjustable wrench.) Soaked the innards of the EGR valve > > with throttle plate cleaner, then re-assembled. We'll see how that > > goes. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy a new EGR valve. Probably > > a new EGR feed pipe too. (Would a regular propane torch work? No > > oxyacetylene in my garage. Yet.) > > > Thanks for the info. > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > Possibly prop torch would work its just you need a fair bit of > heat.New egr sounds like a good idea,when replacing dont forget to use > an anti seize compound on the flare nut....... > stay safe , > dave- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Tried the cleaned egr valve; still stalled when taking on a test drive. (Operates just fine with a 3-inch nail in the EGR vacuum line.) Now I need to order a new EGR valve. Hopefully I'll be able to use the blowtorch method to salvage the pipe... pipe is like $25, union nuts another $15... imagine that... Thanks everyone, Michael
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