How to remove EGR valve?
in [Toyota Camry]
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From: mrdarrett on 6 Apr 2007 13:03 On Apr 5, 7:33 am, Kurt <a...(a)att.net> wrote: > > I went ahead and removed the EGR valve (and feed pipe) from the engine > > block. (Had to remove the throttle body yet again to access the nut > > with a giant adjustable wrench.) Soaked the innards of the EGR valve > > with throttle plate cleaner, then re-assembled. We'll see how that > > goes. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy a new EGR valve. Probably > > a new EGR feed pipe too. (Would a regular propane torch work? No > > oxyacetylene in my garage. Yet.) > > > Thanks for the info. > > > Michael > > Another option for cleaning EGR valves is oven cleaner. > > Propane torch will probably work. You don't always have to get > things red hot to release. However, if you do get it red hot > you'll lose the tempering of the metal. Just keep that in mind. > Steel nuts and bolts start acting like brass. So replace what > you can and be careful with what you can't. When you say "lose the tempering of the metal" do you mean only while the part is hot, or after the part cools down, too? I'll be careful while the part is hot... Michael
From: Kurt on 7 Apr 2007 17:10 mrdarrett(a)gmail.com wrote: > ...... However, if you do get it red hot >> you'll lose the tempering of the metal. Just keep that in mind. >> Steel nuts and bolts start acting like brass. So replace what >> you can and be careful with what you can't. > > > When you say "lose the tempering of the metal" do you mean only while > the part is hot, or after the part cools down, too? Steel will end up significantly softer after it cools down. At least the nuts and bolts I've dealt with.
From: mrdarrett on 8 Apr 2007 02:33 On Apr 4, 3:43 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > On Apr 5, 2:23 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > On Apr 3, 6:13 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > > > > On Apr 4, 9:32 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > On Apr 3, 4:06 pm, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > > > > > > == > > > > > Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from > > > > > Internet sales or possibly gun shops. > > > > > There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol > > > > > by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an > > > > > alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened > > > > > some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is > > > > > full of anecdotes. > > > > > > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. > > > > > > == > > > > > What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, > > > > > right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from > > > > > toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better > > > > > than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in > > > > > China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality > > > > > tools. > > > > > > If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare > > > > > nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of > > > > > fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the > > > > > flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex > > > > > during use. > > > > > I couldn't find the Kroil, so I got some PB Blaster from AutoZone > > > > instead. The guy warned me not to get any of it on plastic or rubber > > > > (will destroy them). > > > > > Ah, cheap crow foot flare nut wrenches!http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138 > > > > > Someday, when I'm wealthier, I'll invest in higher quality tools. > > > > This should get the job done for now, though. > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > > The flare nut you are describing quite often needs to be heated cherry > > > red with oxy before you have any chance of moving it.Cleaning egr > > > valves is not a good solution,quite often the fault is within the > > > diaphram of the valve and cleaning will odviously not achive > > > anything.If you manage to get the valve off , vacum test it to ensure > > > that there is no leakage. > > > > Dave Strachan AIAME,Toyota master tech Australia- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > I went ahead and removed the EGR valve (and feed pipe) from the engine > > block. (Had to remove the throttle body yet again to access the nut > > with a giant adjustable wrench.) Soaked the innards of the EGR valve > > with throttle plate cleaner, then re-assembled. We'll see how that > > goes. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy a new EGR valve. Probably > > a new EGR feed pipe too. (Would a regular propane torch work? No > > oxyacetylene in my garage. Yet.) > > > Thanks for the info. > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > Possibly prop torch would work its just you need a fair bit of > heat.New egr sounds like a good idea,when replacing dont forget to use > an anti seize compound on the flare nut....... > stay safe , > dave Heating with a brazing torch (propylene, claims to burn at 1980 C) for 10 minutes did the trick. The piece didn't get hot enough to glow. Planning on getting a new EGR valve... but then I thought, how can I know for sure it is the EGR valve? Do vacuum switching valves go bad over time, too? My '96 Camry is over 10 years old, 141,300 miles. Stalls only after being driven more than 5 miles (won't stall at all if driving the 3 miles to/from my work, for instance). Does this sound like an EGR valve issue? For testing / trying to isolate the problem, plugging the vacuum hose with a nail stopped the stalling - but I guess it could be any EGR fault - from the EGR modulator to the VSV to the EGR valve... Michael
From: videokid400 on 12 Apr 2007 09:17 On Apr 8, 4:33 pm, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > On Apr 4, 3:43 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > > > > > > > On Apr 5, 2:23 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > On Apr 3, 6:13 pm, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > > > > > On Apr 4, 9:32 am, mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > > On Apr 3, 4:06 pm, "Daniel" <nospampls2...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > > > mrdarr...(a)gmail.com wrote: > > > > > > > Ok, Kroil is now on my list. > > > > > > > == > > > > > > Kroil is excellent, however it may be hard to locate apart from > > > > > > Internet sales or possibly gun shops. > > > > > > There are other penetrating oils. I once had a rust penetrant aerosol > > > > > > by Toyota which was very good. If you have the time order Kroil, or an > > > > > > alternate, the main idea is to let it soak in first, but I've loosened > > > > > > some extraordinarily old fasteners with Kroil and their web site is > > > > > > full of anecdotes. > > > > > > > > Will get a crowfoot wrench too. > > > > > > > == > > > > > > What you actually need is a flare nut crow foot wrench. I got one, > > > > > > right size, for the lower fuel filter fitting, made by SK, from > > > > > > toolsource.com. Cost around $20, but of excellent quality. Much better > > > > > > than the one in the set I got from JC Whitney - whole set $20 made in > > > > > > China, that I never used, just because I don't like using low quality > > > > > > tools. > > > > > > > If you let the fitting soak in Kroil, and then use the crow foot flare > > > > > > nut wrench I think you will be amazed at how easily this type of > > > > > > fastener can be removed. The crow foot flare nut wrench avoids the > > > > > > flexing that can occur with standard flare nut wrenches that can flex > > > > > > during use. > > > > > > I couldn't find the Kroil, so I got some PB Blaster from AutoZone > > > > > instead. The guy warned me not to get any of it on plastic or rubber > > > > > (will destroy them). > > > > > > Ah, cheap crow foot flare nut wrenches!http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138 > > > > > > Someday, when I'm wealthier, I'll invest in higher quality tools. > > > > > This should get the job done for now, though. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > > > The flare nut you are describing quite often needs to be heated cherry > > > > red with oxy before you have any chance of moving it.Cleaning egr > > > > valves is not a good solution,quite often the fault is within the > > > > diaphram of the valve and cleaning will odviously not achive > > > > anything.If you manage to get the valve off , vacum test it to ensure > > > > that there is no leakage. > > > > > Dave Strachan AIAME,Toyota master tech Australia- Hide quoted text - > > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > > I went ahead and removed the EGR valve (and feed pipe) from the engine > > > block. (Had to remove the throttle body yet again to access the nut > > > with a giant adjustable wrench.) Soaked the innards of the EGR valve > > > with throttle plate cleaner, then re-assembled. We'll see how that > > > goes. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy a new EGR valve. Probably > > > a new EGR feed pipe too. (Would a regular propane torch work? No > > > oxyacetylene in my garage. Yet.) > > > > Thanks for the info. > > > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > Possibly prop torch would work its just you need a fair bit of > > heat.New egr sounds like a good idea,when replacing dont forget to use > > an anti seize compound on the flare nut....... > > stay safe , > > dave > > Heating with a brazing torch (propylene, claims to burn at 1980 C) for > 10 minutes did the trick. The piece didn't get hot enough to glow. > > Planning on getting a new EGR valve... but then I thought, how can I > know for sure it is the EGR valve? Do vacuum switching valves go bad > over time, too? > > My '96 Camry is over 10 years old, 141,300 miles. Stalls only after > being driven more than 5 miles (won't stall at all if driving the 3 > miles to/from my work, for instance). Does this sound like an EGR > valve issue? > > For testing / trying to isolate the problem, plugging the vacuum hose > with a nail stopped the stalling - but I guess it could be any EGR > fault - from the EGR modulator to the VSV to the EGR valve... > > Michael- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - A tube nut is in no way a tempered metal , it is in point of FACT a stamped rolled nut and in MOST instances in dismantling EGR systems in the last 15 years I have found it the most time efficient and by far the least damaging way of removing tube nut/riser pipe assys.
From: mrdarrett on 12 Apr 2007 19:05 On Apr 12, 6:17 am, videokid...(a)hotmail.com wrote: ..... > A tube nut is in no way a tempered metal , it is in point of FACT a > stamped rolled nut and in MOST instances in dismantling EGR systems in > the last 15 years I have found it the most time efficient and by far > the least damaging way of removing tube nut/riser pipe assys. Thanks for that. Came off in just a few minutes of brazing with propylene. I vacuum-tested my EGR valve again (while on the car), and it holds vacuum perfectly. It helps to use the right size tubing. ;-) Just as a clarification: I removed the nut AFTER removing the pipe (and EGR valve) from the engine. I would not recommend trying to remove the nut with a blowtorch while still attached to the intake manifold. Michael
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