99 Toyota Tacoma problem needing help, Please.
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From: JoeSpareBedroom on 20 Dec 2009 13:00 "Scott" <nope(a)haha.com> wrote in message news:ciosi5lmuk2mgm7c93kobju2cf1oo1npq8(a)4ax.com... > > Ok hooked up the scanner and it says passed no codes. Truck will not > start so I am not sure what to try now. It never hurts to yell at it using language that would offend even sailors. At least it's something to do while you're waiting for Ray to return.
From: Ray O on 20 Dec 2009 13:39 "Scott" <nope(a)haha.com> wrote in message news:invri59knv8oqrfpp04b7i9guqmeiu799r(a)4ax.com... >I did get a check engine light, forgot to mention that. Do you think > those coils are coould have gone bad? I can't beleive all three of > them would bail at once. > > Thanks again, > > Scott.. > I prefer not to speculate on whether or not you have a bad coil, but I doubt that all 3 would fail at the same time. I saw your other post about using a code scanner; did you use an OBD II code scanner? Did you disconnect the battery or clear the codes previously? Erasing the codes makes diagnosis a lot more time consuming. It is usually not a good idea to clear any trouble codes until the cause of the codes has been corrected, or at least the codes have been written down. Before you start buying and swapping parts, keep in mind that the function of just about every part in the vehicle can be tested, so it is always a good idea to check parts before replacing them. Even with all of the advances in emissions and engine conrols since the invention of the internal combustion engine, an internal combustion engine still needs 3 things in the appropriate times and amounts to run: air, fuel, and a source of ignition. Check your air filter to make sure that it is not clogged. Check to see if the MAF sensor is fouled, especially if you have an aftermarket K&N type filter because they can foul MAF sensors. Check for obstructions in the hose between the air intake and throttle body. Check for spark from each of the 3 banks of coils by removing the spark plug from the cylinder bank opposite from the coil, pugging the spark plug wire back into the spark plug that you removed, layinng the threaded part of the spark plug against the cylinder block or head, and have someone crank the engine. If you see a spark, the coil is good. Do this with each coil. Fuel is a little harder to check so check the air and spark first. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply) > > On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 00:30:18 -0600, "Ray O" > <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote: > >> >>"Scott" <nope(a)haha.com> wrote in message >>news:l3fqi5lkj4gcitf3vsd17fs660em1bko94(a)4ax.com... >>> Hi everyone, >>> >>> Ok so I have a 99 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 3.4 liter engine with 143,000 >>> miles on it. Everything is going just fine, I am out driving around in >>> the snow and almost home when all of a sudden, loss of power and the >>> engine is slugish and slow to rev up. If it revs to far it tries to >>> stall. When it idles it is rough like the coils died, again. So being >>> in Asheville, Nc with all this snow the town is shut down. Finally i >>> get Autozone and they have one coil. I figure I can swpa it around and >>> find the bad coil and be back up. No luck there. So I am stuck, do all >>> three coils go bad at once or could there be another problem? Any help >>> is appreciated. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Scott.. >> >>Scott, did you get a check engine light? If so, what were the trouble >>codes? If you have not pulled the trouble codes, you should do that and >>post them here. If you did not get a check engine light, the coils are >>probably OK and I'll give you some other stuff to check.
From: Mike Hunter on 20 Dec 2009 14:08 You don't understand, dr_jeff, he does not want to pay to have his problem corrected buy a competent tech. He is looking for a cheap fix. ;) "dr_jeff" <utz(a)msu.edu> wrote in message news:yICdnUGtCeLymrPWnZ2dnUVZ_qhi4p2d(a)giganews.com... > Scott wrote: >> I did get a check engine light, forgot to mention that. Do you think >> those coils are coould have gone bad? I can't beleive all three of >> them would bail at once. >> >> Thanks again, >> >> Scott.. > > Let's see - you have diagnostic info available. Use it. By diagnostic > info, I mean the codes stored in the computer. > >> On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 00:30:18 -0600, "Ray O" >> <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote: >> >>> "Scott" <nope(a)haha.com> wrote in message >>> news:l3fqi5lkj4gcitf3vsd17fs660em1bko94(a)4ax.com... >>>> Hi everyone, >>>> >>>> Ok so I have a 99 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 3.4 liter engine with 143,000 >>>> miles on it. Everything is going just fine, I am out driving around in >>>> the snow and almost home when all of a sudden, loss of power and the >>>> engine is slugish and slow to rev up. If it revs to far it tries to >>>> stall. When it idles it is rough like the coils died, again. So being >>>> in Asheville, Nc with all this snow the town is shut down. Finally i >>>> get Autozone and they have one coil. I figure I can swpa it around and >>>> find the bad coil and be back up. No luck there. So I am stuck, do all >>>> three coils go bad at once or could there be another problem? Any help >>>> is appreciated. >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> Scott.. >>> Scott, did you get a check engine light? If so, what were the trouble >>> codes? If you have not pulled the trouble codes, you should do that and >>> post them here. If you did not get a check engine light, the coils are >>> probably OK and I'll give you some other stuff to check.
From: Scott on 20 Dec 2009 14:55 No I did not remove the battery cable or clear any codes knowing that would not help anything. Yes the code reader was an OBD II. Filter looks good and MAF looked the same, sprayed it off just in case. As for the spark, it is just a litle to cool to fool with that today. i will call and have it put in the shop in the morning and let them figure it out. I do truly appreciate all your help though. This is very frustrating for me on a weekend with all this snow and the town shut down. Still it is so strange how it acted, was running great and then no power and hardly running. Press the gas and it is real slow to wind up and would only rev so far with barely any power to move forward with. If I floored it it would stall. I had a coil go bad before and atleast it still started and you could drive it to the shop. This thing wont do a thing other than turn over. Oh well, I will call first thing in the morning. On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 12:39:07 -0600, "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote: > >"Scott" <nope(a)haha.com> wrote in message >news:invri59knv8oqrfpp04b7i9guqmeiu799r(a)4ax.com... >>I did get a check engine light, forgot to mention that. Do you think >> those coils are coould have gone bad? I can't beleive all three of >> them would bail at once. >> >> Thanks again, >> >> Scott.. >> > >I prefer not to speculate on whether or not you have a bad coil, but I doubt >that all 3 would fail at the same time. > >I saw your other post about using a code scanner; did you use an OBD II code >scanner? Did you disconnect the battery or clear the codes previously? > >Erasing the codes makes diagnosis a lot more time consuming. It is usually >not a good idea to clear any trouble codes until the cause of the codes has >been corrected, or at least the codes have been written down. Before you >start buying and swapping parts, keep in mind that the function of just >about every part in the vehicle can be tested, so it is always a good idea >to check parts before replacing them. > >Even with all of the advances in emissions and engine conrols since the >invention of the internal combustion engine, an internal combustion engine >still needs 3 things in the appropriate times and amounts to run: air, fuel, >and a source of ignition. > >Check your air filter to make sure that it is not clogged. Check to see if >the MAF sensor is fouled, especially if you have an aftermarket K&N type >filter because they can foul MAF sensors. Check for obstructions in the >hose between the air intake and throttle body. > >Check for spark from each of the 3 banks of coils by removing the spark plug >from the cylinder bank opposite from the coil, pugging the spark plug wire >back into the spark plug that you removed, layinng the threaded part of the >spark plug against the cylinder block or head, and have someone crank the >engine. If you see a spark, the coil is good. Do this with each coil. > >Fuel is a little harder to check so check the air and spark first.
From: Ray O on 20 Dec 2009 23:51
"Scott" <nope(a)haha.com> wrote in message news:0cvsi51ht1b9lsin35rab8lpqitf642bdb(a)4ax.com... > No I did not remove the battery cable or clear any codes knowing that > would not help anything. Yes the code reader was an OBD II. Filter > looks good and MAF looked the same, sprayed it off just in case. As > for the spark, it is just a litle to cool to fool with that today. i > will call and have it put in the shop in the morning and let them > figure it out. I do truly appreciate all your help though. This is > very frustrating for me on a weekend with all this snow and the town > shut down. > > Still it is so strange how it acted, was running great and then no > power and hardly running. Press the gas and it is real slow to wind up > and would only rev so far with barely any power to move forward with. > If I floored it it would stall. I had a coil go bad before and atleast > it still started and you could drive it to the shop. This thing wont > do a thing other than turn over. > > Oh well, I will call first thing in the morning. Let us know what they find. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply) > > > On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 12:39:07 -0600, "Ray O" > <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote: > >> >>"Scott" <nope(a)haha.com> wrote in message >>news:invri59knv8oqrfpp04b7i9guqmeiu799r(a)4ax.com... >>>I did get a check engine light, forgot to mention that. Do you think >>> those coils are coould have gone bad? I can't beleive all three of >>> them would bail at once. >>> >>> Thanks again, >>> >>> Scott.. >>> >> >>I prefer not to speculate on whether or not you have a bad coil, but I >>doubt >>that all 3 would fail at the same time. >> >>I saw your other post about using a code scanner; did you use an OBD II >>code >>scanner? Did you disconnect the battery or clear the codes previously? >> >>Erasing the codes makes diagnosis a lot more time consuming. It is >>usually >>not a good idea to clear any trouble codes until the cause of the codes >>has >>been corrected, or at least the codes have been written down. Before you >>start buying and swapping parts, keep in mind that the function of just >>about every part in the vehicle can be tested, so it is always a good idea >>to check parts before replacing them. >> >>Even with all of the advances in emissions and engine conrols since the >>invention of the internal combustion engine, an internal combustion engine >>still needs 3 things in the appropriate times and amounts to run: air, >>fuel, >>and a source of ignition. >> >>Check your air filter to make sure that it is not clogged. Check to see >>if >>the MAF sensor is fouled, especially if you have an aftermarket K&N type >>filter because they can foul MAF sensors. Check for obstructions in the >>hose between the air intake and throttle body. >> >>Check for spark from each of the 3 banks of coils by removing the spark >>plug >>from the cylinder bank opposite from the coil, pugging the spark plug wire >>back into the spark plug that you removed, layinng the threaded part of >>the >>spark plug against the cylinder block or head, and have someone crank the >>engine. If you see a spark, the coil is good. Do this with each coil. >> >>Fuel is a little harder to check so check the air and spark first. |