1997 Camry Sport battery hassle
in [Toyota Camry]
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From: Daniel on 1 Jul 2006 11:41 Don wrote: > I suppose I could install a battery switch to disconnect the battery. Don't > know how easy it would be to do this. ====================== That would not be the best idea. You will lose your radio presets, clock setting and any stored computer drivability settings. Here's probably more than you ever wanted to know about batteries: ----------------- http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/ ----------------- http://www.exideworld.com/products/trans/na/battery_care/battery_care.html ========== Couple of suggestions: Just buying a "new" battery, does not mean you're getting a "new" battery. There is a manufacturing date coded on the battery - usually "A" for January and so on. If the battery is first placed into service more than six months after the manufacture date, chances are sulfation has already begun to develop on the internal battery plates, and reduced the battery's ability to store a full electrical charge. Second, most technically oriented purchasers prefer a battery design where water can be added. Many of the "no maintenance" batteries actually have caps that can be pried off. Sounds like yours does not. On a personal note, I once had one of those fully sealed batteries explode, so I never purchased another after that. Was a full size Cadillac. Came out of a store, turned the key to start, and boom. No real damage apart from the battery, because I was able to rinse down the acid quickly. I can only surmise an internal short occurred. Third. If the new battery has created problems you didn't have before, I would suspect the battery. If your alternator is not charging, you will see a "charge" indicator on the dash. The most common alternator problem in Camrys with over 150,000 miles, is simply worn brushes, which can be purchased for apx. $20 (USD). Check on the Internet, or in your owner's manual to determine the necessary capacity required for the battery for your car. I like to use a temperature compensated hydrometer by Ez Red, cost around $20 (USD) online, to check the state of charge of each cell, and then use a battery charger as required to see if the battery can be brought back up over night. This is also a convenient way to see if a single cell is marginal. But you cannot do this with a sealed battery. All you can do is check the voltage with a digital multimeter. I believe the Exide articles (exideworld.com - above) give some guidance on what the readings should be to determine battery condition. This is probably not what you want to hear, but sometimes you just cannot get satisfaction from certain establishments that are more focused on sales than serving customer requirements. You may just wind up buying a different battery elsewhere. When they've sold you one item which you sensed was not correct, and now the next solution is to sell you another item, I get very suspicious.
From: Don on 20 Jul 2006 19:33
Battery problem now sorted. I used the alternator to charge it up on a 40 mile trip. Thanks for all suggestions. Don |