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From: Rastamon on 6 Dec 2008 18:40
<clare(a)snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:flnlj4pjoj9ghci0votc0m5qf12t9r08ul(a)4ax.com...
>
>>Rastamon wrote:
>>> 93 4Runner 3VZ-E
>>>
>>> At first it would not start, unless jump started. While running, it
>>> would
>>> all of sudden stall. Tried to crank it, battery dead. While the key in
>>> the
>>> ON position, no lights on the dash, then a few minutes later, power
>>> again,
>>> but would not crank. The battery is about 3 years old, and still under
>>> warranty, so I got it replaced. After replacing the battery, it started
>>> fine, and I removed one of the terminals to the battery to check if it
>>> was
>>> the alternator, It still ran.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking if it's the alternator or one of the relays near the
>>> battery.
>>> Any other suggestions or tests I can do?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>>
> Your description points straight at a bad batttery connection.
>
> Particularly th "key on, no lights on the dash" ans "a few minutes
> later, power again".
>
> Either a bad battery connection or a bad ground - 99.999%.
>
> Changing the battery could have repaired the bad battery connection.

I did notice some corrosion on the terminals, but I cleaned them before
installing the new battery. I checked the battery ground and could only
find one Engine ground located in the middle of the firewall connected to
the top of intake plenum. I was wondering if there were any other grounding
points on the engine that I missed.

The truck is running ok for now. I'm just worried it will stop again, once
the battery is low. When I have time I'll remove the alternator to have it
checked out at the local parts store.


From: Oldphart on 6 Dec 2008 19:25

>> Your description points straight at a bad batttery connection.
>>
>> Particularly th "key on, no lights on the dash" ans "a few minutes
>> later, power again".
>>
>> Either a bad battery connection or a bad ground - 99.999%.
>>
>> Changing the battery could have repaired the bad battery connection.
>
> I did notice some corrosion on the terminals, but I cleaned them before
> installing the new battery. I checked the battery ground and could only
> find one Engine ground located in the middle of the firewall connected to
> the top of intake plenum. I was wondering if there were any other grounding
> points on the engine that I missed.
>
> The truck is running ok for now. I'm just worried it will stop again, once
> the battery is low. When I have time I'll remove the alternator to have it
> checked out at the local parts store.
>
>

A simple method of checking the output of the alternator is looking at
the brightness of your headlights with the motor running. After using
the "lights on, engine running" for a visual baseline (of headlight
brightness), turn the key off so the ignition is still on, yet the
engine shuts off. The lights should visibly dim. With the lights still
on, try starting the engine. The lights should go dimmer then come up
to full brightness. If during the engine start the lights go completely
out, that indicates poor/intermittent continuity from the power source.
As stated before, grounds are notorious for corrosion at points of
contact when dissimilar metals are involved.
Another problem I experienced years ago was on a Ford van where an
internal contact point between cells on the battery was bad and would
open up at the most inopportune times. I had the battery Cap-Checked
and was rated good by the people that tested it. That was also a
situation where I tried to start and everything would go dead, including
all accessories and lights. I could let it set there for ten minutes
sometimes and it would start as if there never was a problem.
From: Ralph Mowery on 6 Dec 2008 23:08

"Rastamon" <rasta(a)dakine.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:003fd063$0$24150$c3e8da3(a)news.astraweb.com...
> <clare(a)snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
> The truck is running ok for now. I'm just worried it will stop again, once
> the battery is low. When I have time I'll remove the alternator to have
> it checked out at the local parts store.

It would be much quicker to just take a voltmeter and measuer the voltage of
the battery. Do it once with the motor off and again with it running. It
should be about 12.6 with the motor off and around 13.8 or more with the
motor running. If it does not go up over 1 volt then the alternator is bad.


From: Rastamon on 7 Dec 2008 17:15

"Oldphart" <mfj1952deletethis(a)cox.net> wrote in message
news:aFE_k.34$Ys1.3(a)newsfe05.iad...
>
>
> A simple method of checking the output of the alternator is looking at the
> brightness of your headlights with the motor running. After using the
> "lights on, engine running" for a visual baseline (of headlight
> brightness), turn the key off so the ignition is still on, yet the engine
> shuts off. The lights should visibly dim. With the lights still on, try
> starting the engine. The lights should go dimmer then come up to full
> brightness. If during the engine start the lights go completely out, that
> indicates poor/intermittent continuity from the power source. As stated
> before, grounds are notorious for corrosion at points of contact when
> dissimilar metals are involved.
> Another problem I experienced years ago was on a Ford van where an
> internal contact point between cells on the battery was bad and would open
> up at the most inopportune times. I had the battery Cap-Checked and was
> rated good by the people that tested it. That was also a situation where
> I tried to start and everything would go dead, including all accessories
> and lights. I could let it set there for ten minutes sometimes and it
> would start as if there never was a problem.

I think that's the same thing that happen to my original battery. It was a
Champion DT35 4x4 battery I bought at Sam's Club. Even hooked up to a
charger (overnight), it seemed not to take a charge. The gauge on my
charger barely moved when charging.

I'm hoping that I fixed the problem. I don't want to be driving on the road
and it dying on me.

Thanks for your advice.


From: DS on 12 Dec 2008 15:26
Rastamon wrote:
> 93 4Runner 3VZ-E
>
> At first it would not start, unless jump started. While running, it would
> all of sudden stall. Tried to crank it, battery dead. While the key in the
> ON position, no lights on the dash, then a few minutes later, power again,
> but would not crank. The battery is about 3 years old, and still under
> warranty, so I got it replaced. After replacing the battery, it started
> fine, and I removed one of the terminals to the battery to check if it was
> the alternator, It still ran.
>
> I'm thinking if it's the alternator or one of the relays near the battery.
> Any other suggestions or tests I can do?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
NEVER, EVER disconnect the battery while the engine is running. You can
very easily destroy your alternator, your ECM and various other
electronic devices. Look up "load dump". You are producing a very
dangerous transient spike by doing this.
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