From: DanG on

"chuck" <chuck(a)invalid.net> wrote in message
news:7ZPQi.5958$I22.3313(a)trndny03...

>
> Obviously, those giving adivce haven't changed many brakes on Toyota
> trucks. If you look, there are 2 10mm threaded holes on the drum.
> Tighten some bolts in them, while smacking the drum with a hammer, and
> it'll pop loose.

Yup, works great.


From: Mike Dobony on

"chuck" <chuck(a)invalid.net> wrote in message
news:7ZPQi.5958$I22.3313(a)trndny03...
> On 2007-10-15, SnoMan <admin(a)snoman.com> wrote:
>> On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 08:59:43 -0500, "Mike Dobony"
>><sword(a)notasarian-host.net> wrote:
>>
>>>First case, rusted to the axle flange. My torch is only a plumbing
>>>torch,
>>>so I can't cut it off with the torch. Guess I need to take it to the
>>>shop
>>>to have them do it :(
>>
>>
>> Simple go to a rental shop and get a big puller that will span drum.
>> Attach puller and snug it up good and if it does not pop off then,
>> smack it with a big hammer once or twice and it will pop between
>> tension and impact. Works every time. I would NEVER use a torch to cut
>> it off.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
> Obviously, those giving adivce haven't changed many brakes on Toyota
> trucks. If you look, there are 2 10mm threaded holes on the drum.
> Tighten some bolts in them, while smacking the drum with a hammer, and
> it'll pop loose.


That's what I ended up doing today. Then I had fun getting the axle removed
from the brake backing plate assembly. Turn out I need some very special
tooling to do it, so it is at a driveline shop, apparently the only one in
the area capable of separating them. Tomorrow it will have a new bearing
and 2 new seals. Honestly, the seals look pretty good. My guess is that
the sloppy bearing just put too much pressure on the seals and opened up a
gap for the gear lube to leak out. That whole inside was covered with gear
lube!


From: : P on

>
> Obviously, those giving adivce haven't changed many brakes on Toyota
> trucks. If you look, there are 2 10mm threaded holes on the drum.
> Tighten some bolts in them, while smacking the drum with a hammer, and
> it'll pop loose.

you still have to know what you're doing. I've seen those holes get
stripped many times. then you end up using penetrating oil and rapping on
the drum with a hammer, between the studs, slowly working the drum loose.
of course, the self adjusters need to be backed off as much as possible.

> Turn out I need some very special
> tooling to do it, so it is at a driveline shop, apparently the only one in
> the area capable of separating them.

no real special tooling needed. just a hydraulic press, a bearing separator
plate, and steel plates to support the separator plate. just need to cut
off the lock ring 1st, then press off the bearing without damaging the
backing plate. I'd think most decent shops could have done it.