From: Eric R Snow on
To all,
I have a '92 extra cab 4WD pickup with the V6 and automatic hubs. I
had new BF Goodrich tires put on it about a month ago. I forget the
tire name but I think they are the mud/terrain TA tires. Anyway, the
tread is pretty aggressive but the tires are quiet on the highway. A
couple days ago it seemed like the tires were making noise and the
ride would get rough at the same time. Putting the truck in neutral
didn't stop the noise and roughness. But if I stopped the truck and
started to drive again the noise and roughness would be gone. After
driving a while it would start again. Trying different things I found
that everything would be smooth as long as the truck was accelerating
or if the speed was constant. But decelerating would bring on the
noise. After thinking about this a while it occurred to me that I had
the truck in 4WD recently for just a few minutes. So I put it back
into 4WD and out again while traveling straight and moving about 30
mph. This cured the noise, vibration and roughness. Just thought I'd
pass this along.
ERS
From: DanG on

"Eric R Snow" <etpm(a)whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:gdj7h3tpoohnl2dj6ujrocr7fhfh0u5muk(a)4ax.com...
> To all,
> I have a '92 extra cab 4WD pickup with the V6 and automatic hubs. I
> had new BF Goodrich tires put on it about a month ago. I forget the
> tire name but I think they are the mud/terrain TA tires. Anyway, the
> tread is pretty aggressive but the tires are quiet on the highway. A
> couple days ago it seemed like the tires were making noise and the
> ride would get rough at the same time. Putting the truck in neutral
> didn't stop the noise and roughness. But if I stopped the truck and
> started to drive again the noise and roughness would be gone. After
> driving a while it would start again. Trying different things I found
> that everything would be smooth as long as the truck was accelerating
> or if the speed was constant. But decelerating would bring on the
> noise. After thinking about this a while it occurred to me that I had
> the truck in 4WD recently for just a few minutes. So I put it back
> into 4WD and out again while traveling straight and moving about 30
> mph. This cured the noise, vibration and roughness. Just thought I'd
> pass this along.
> ERS

These models had issues with front inner bearing lubrication that can cause
similar symptoms. One or more of the bearing rollers can stick and spin
around the race. The noise is sort of a growl or even whirring noise, and
you can feel it too. The inners are only loaded in 4WD. I'd strongly
recommend you remove the hubs, outers, and properly grease the inner
bearings. It takes a special tool to get the grease into the inners
correctly, unless you completely remove them. A buddy of mine uses a piece
of pipe that fits over the spindle and forces grease into the inners. While
you have it apart, I'd also suggest you replace the auto lockouts with
manual.



From: Eric R Snow on
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 16:48:10 -0600, "DanG" <nospam(a)q.com> wrote:

>
>"Eric R Snow" <etpm(a)whidbey.com> wrote in message
>news:gdj7h3tpoohnl2dj6ujrocr7fhfh0u5muk(a)4ax.com...
>> To all,
>> I have a '92 extra cab 4WD pickup with the V6 and automatic hubs. I
>> had new BF Goodrich tires put on it about a month ago. I forget the
>> tire name but I think they are the mud/terrain TA tires. Anyway, the
>> tread is pretty aggressive but the tires are quiet on the highway. A
>> couple days ago it seemed like the tires were making noise and the
>> ride would get rough at the same time. Putting the truck in neutral
>> didn't stop the noise and roughness. But if I stopped the truck and
>> started to drive again the noise and roughness would be gone. After
>> driving a while it would start again. Trying different things I found
>> that everything would be smooth as long as the truck was accelerating
>> or if the speed was constant. But decelerating would bring on the
>> noise. After thinking about this a while it occurred to me that I had
>> the truck in 4WD recently for just a few minutes. So I put it back
>> into 4WD and out again while traveling straight and moving about 30
>> mph. This cured the noise, vibration and roughness. Just thought I'd
>> pass this along.
>> ERS
>
>These models had issues with front inner bearing lubrication that can cause
>similar symptoms. One or more of the bearing rollers can stick and spin
>around the race. The noise is sort of a growl or even whirring noise, and
>you can feel it too. The inners are only loaded in 4WD. I'd strongly
>recommend you remove the hubs, outers, and properly grease the inner
>bearings. It takes a special tool to get the grease into the inners
>correctly, unless you completely remove them. A buddy of mine uses a piece
>of pipe that fits over the spindle and forces grease into the inners. While
>you have it apart, I'd also suggest you replace the auto lockouts with
>manual.
>
>
Thanks for the advice Dan. Though I engage the 4WD often enough for
proper lubrication according to the manual it doesn't mean that the
previous owner did. I'll check the bearings and properly grease them.
The automatic hubs work fine now except for maybe the above condition
which is gone now. Why should they be replaced by manual hubs?
Thanks,
Eric
From: SnoMan on
On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 07:40:04 -0700, Eric R Snow <etpm(a)whidbey.com>
wrote:

>Thanks for the advice Dan. Though I engage the 4WD often enough for
>proper lubrication according to the manual it doesn't mean that the
>previous owner did. I'll check the bearings and properly grease them.
>The automatic hubs work fine now except for maybe the above condition
>which is gone now. Why should they be replaced by manual hubs?
>Thanks,


I think automatic hubs get a bad wrap sometimes. I have had some on
one vehcile for 18 years now and they have been no trouble. A mistake
some make working on them is over packing them and then they fail in
cold weather. Also why you have it apart, replace all wheel and axle
seal to get access to regardless of their apperance as they are
getting up there is age.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
From: DanG on

"Eric R Snow" <etpm(a)whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:s4j9h3tm4fsocsc575rhgmoo9v0pvkshiq(a)4ax.com...
>>
> Thanks for the advice Dan. Though I engage the 4WD often enough for
> proper lubrication according to the manual it doesn't mean that the
> previous owner did. I'll check the bearings and properly grease them.
> The automatic hubs work fine now except for maybe the above condition
> which is gone now. Why should they be replaced by manual hubs?
> Thanks,
> Eric

The inner bearings don't get lubed at all unless someone takes the time to
do it right, so odds are good that yours have never been done. Your
description of the noise and the fact that it started and stopped with the
use of 4WD sounds very much like that same issue. The addition of new tires
is also a possible indicator that they are stressed. I had one that did it
only in cold weather, and it was only 3 years old at the time. It doesn't
take much to flatten a roller when one sticks, so beware.

Auto hubs get a bad rap because they deserve it. They tend to not be engaged
when needed, and also not disengage when needed. It's just something to do
if you have the thing apart anyhow, and manuals are cheap.


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