From: Sarah Houston on
Eternal Searcher <eternalsearcher(a)yahoo.ca.invalid> wrote :

> Sarah Houston wrote:
>
>> But you're saying that doesnt matter? Like if I put that Bosch 12201
>> in, it should work fine and be ok?
>
> The likelihood of the Bosch working in your car is very low, so avoid
> it. Stick with OEM.
>

How come?

Do you work for Toyota?

From: nm5k on
On Dec 14, 2:37 pm, "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...(a)my-deja.com>
wrote:

>
> Are there digital voltage meters that don't average semi-fast
> signals?  I think for testing O2 sensors, a meter with a fast-reacting
> bar graph would be better.

I use an older Simpson digital VOM, with peak hold, avg, and it also
has a bar graph. It' s a true RMS meter. It's the one I usually grab
for
O2 looking.. That has been a good meter over the years.
It used to be in the air force at one time.. Still has the last
military
calibration sticker on it.. About 1985 or so...
>
> > To measure responsiveness, one would have to use a laboratory scope
>
> Why?  It's just a low frequency signal that any regular scope, or even
> a cheapo handheld 1 MHz scope/DVM can display.

Yep, but measuring time would be a lot more accurate with the scope..
But saying that, I don't use my scope for O2 sensor checking much..
What I look for is a fast corrective response to the mixture changes,
and that's it's holding the mixture at the point it should be.. Not
too lean,
not too rich.
>
> Do any owner's manuals mention a replacement interval for the O2
> sensors, that is, for vehicles made since the mid-1980s?

Dunno. But I don't normally change sensors as part of upkeep.
I'll only change a sensor if I see a lot of data that seems to point
to a bad sensor. Then, I might break down and try a new one.
IE: if I was getting lower mpg, I'd do a through check on all
systems before I even thought about changing the O2 sensor.
As long as the sensors are not abused by excess oil, chemicals,
etc, they last for a long time.
Ditto for Cat converters... OEM converters last a long time if not
abused.. If there was a part that was the most often misdiagnosed
and replaced when not needed, it's probably the cat converters.
And the worst part is many aftermarket converters are pure junk
compared to OEM. I've seen brand new 3rd party converters
that were actually worse than the old OEM unit they replaced
when it comes to certain scores like NOX.
Anyway, I would not replace any emissions parts unless they
are proven to be bad with a through diagnosis of the whole
system.
BTW, when changing a sensor, always heat the engine
and exhaust pipes first before trying to take it off.
Usually makes it much easier to break loose, vs a cold one.
If it's an old one with lots of crud, I'll spray rustbuster on it
and let it sit for quite a while, and then heat the pipes and
see if it breaks loose. So far, I've never had a problem as
long as the pipe is hot.
And like they already said, always use anti seize paste
on the new one, but never get any on the sensor itself.
Many sensors will come with the past already on the threads.
If not, get some...


From: larry moe 'n curly on


n...(a)wt.net wrote:

> On Dec 14, 2:37�pm, "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...(a)my-deja.com>
> wrote:

> > Do any owner's manuals mention a replacement interval for the O2
> > sensors, that is, for vehicles made since the mid-1980s?
>
> Dunno. But I don't normally change sensors as part of upkeep.
> I'll only change a sensor if I see a lot of data that seems to point
> to a bad sensor. Then, I might break down and try a new one.
> IE: if I was getting lower mpg, I'd do a through check on all
> systems before I even thought about changing the O2 sensor.
> As long as the sensors are not abused by excess oil, chemicals,
> etc, they last for a long time.
> Ditto for Cat converters... OEM converters last a long time if not
> abused..

...or stolen. It finally happened to my Nissan Frontier, but at least
the thieves simply unbolted mine and didn't saw through the exhaust
pipes.

> If there was a part that was the most often misdiagnosed
> and replaced when not needed, it's probably the cat converters.
> And the worst part is many aftermarket converters are pure junk
> compared to OEM. I've seen brand new 3rd party converters
> that were actually worse than the old OEM unit they replaced
> when it comes to certain scores like NOX.

I put in a cat made by Eastern Catalytic. Are they any good? My
truck is OBD II but doesn't have an O2 sensor downstream from the cat,
and the emissions testing stations here don't stick a probe into the
tailpipe of OBDII vehicles.