Need larger alternator for a Land Cruiser [Toyota]

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From: Daniel Who Wants to Know on 24 Apr 2008 16:22

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blnospambergman(a)earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:eu7014topr2e8pr25657efbdd8rrqkcjmo(a)4ax.com...
> On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 03:16:59 GMT, "Daniel Who Wants to Know"
> <danielthechskid(a)merrychristmasi.com> wrote:
>>"hachiroku" <Trueno(a)ae86.GTS> wrote in message
>>news:pan.2008.04.23.19.21.22.906000(a)ae86.GTS...
>
>>> Oh, you may also want to check with a Custom Car stereo shop. Some of
>>> these THUMP machines need some heavy duty current, and with bigger
>>> alternators, gel-cell batteries and 1 mF capacitors can overcome the
>>> current problems when a 60Hz thump blows out the back glass...
>>
>>Like these ones?
>>http://www.alternatorparts.com/Extreme%20Duty%20Dual%20Rectifier%20CS-144%20type.htm
>>No personal experience with them and they are pricey but they look like
>>they
>>might be well made.
>
> Yeah, that would work... ;-)
>
> The CS-144 is a Delco Large Car case, obviously they've stuffed the
> even larger coils from a truck alternator inside and hung the
> rectifier bridge external off the back instead of internal like on a
> production car unit.
>
> WARNING: Those rectifiers look like they might be electrically hot
> on the heat sinks - and even if they aren't they are going to get
> seriously hot at full output. Keep fingers well away, unless you want
> them branded for life...
>

What I gathered by the "dual" meaning is that they still have the internal
bridge along with the external one and yes from the picture the sinks are
both electrically and thermally hot. I think they should have put some sort
of plastic shroud around the external fins both to insulate them
electrically and to help the air flow through the fins instead of around
them. That much exposed metal which is directly connected to the battery
positive through very thick cable in close proximity to the grounded metal
brackets, hard lines, etc kinda scares me.

From: Jeff Strickland on 24 Apr 2008 19:08

From: Jeff Strickland on 24 Apr 2008 19:15

<tomg(a)fullnet.com> wrote in message
news:201f8312-8b0d-408b-ac39-6621680018ff(a)x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 23, 12:20 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
wrote:
> <t...(a)fullnet.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1dfd284f-3537-4137-b7cb-fc78e9e55cbc(a)d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>
> >I need to quickly find a source for a larger (i.e. higher current)
> > alternator for a 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser. Engine info: V6 24 valve
> > GX.R 4500 EFI. This vehicle was made/sold in the UAE.
>
> > Thanks.
>
> > - Tom
>
> Why do you need a larger alternator? Have you checked with your local
> Toyota dealer to see if the alternator from a V8 Land Cruiser would fit?
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)

Hi Ray,

Thanks for the response.

We have some specialized electronic equipment that we want to install
in some 2007 V6 Toyota Land Cruisers, which requires a larger
alternator. Ideally, we would like to have 250-Amp-rated units.

This is for an extremely worthy cause, and not for profit. I posted
here just to try to cover all bases, and with the hope that someone
might already have the needed information.

I just need a quick and good answer for this. But of course I have
also been pursuing many other avenues, simultaneously. So anyone
without positive suggestions toward the stated goal need not post.

- Tom

<JS>
I do not think there is an automotive alternator that gives that kind of
output. The largest I can recall is something in the range of about 130A. As
a practical matter, there are few automotive applications where that much
juice would be needed all at once.

I suspect you may find what you need in the RV market, but I recall that you
are in the UK, and the RV market may not exist there.

I'm thinking of a tandem axle diesel pusher that has loads of electrical
equipment -- stereo, TV, washing machine and dryer, microwave, etc. --
installed. That would lead you to a custom installation on your Land
Cruiser, if you could find such a thing to custom install.

</JS>

From: Bruce L. Bergman on 25 Apr 2008 02:28

On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 20:22:21 GMT, "Daniel Who Wants to Know" wrote:
>"Bruce L. Bergman" <blnospambergman(a)earthlink.invalid> wrote...
>> On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 03:16:59 GMT, "Daniel Who Wants to Know" wrote:
>>>"hachiroku" <Trueno(a)ae86.GTS> wrote...

>>>> Oh, you may also want to check with a Custom Car stereo shop. Some of
>>>> these THUMP machines need some heavy duty current, and with bigger
>>>> alternators, gel-cell batteries and 1 mF capacitors can overcome the
>>>> current problems when a 60Hz thump blows out the back glass...
>>>
>>>Like these ones?
>>>http://www.alternatorparts.com/Extreme%20Duty%20Dual%20Rectifier%20CS-144%20type.htm
>>>No personal experience with them and they are pricey but they look like
>>>they
>>>might be well made.
>>
>> Yeah, that would work... ;-)
>>
>> The CS-144 is a Delco Large Car case, obviously they've stuffed the
>> even larger coils from a truck alternator inside and hung the
>> rectifier bridge external off the back instead of internal like on a
>> production car unit.
>>
>> WARNING: Those rectifiers look like they might be electrically hot
>> on the heat sinks - and even if they aren't they are going to get
>> seriously hot at full output. Keep fingers well away, unless you want
>> them branded for life...
>>
>
>What I gathered by the "dual" meaning is that they still have the internal
>bridge along with the external one and yes from the picture the sinks are
>both electrically and thermally hot. I think they should have put some sort
>of plastic shroud around the external fins both to insulate them
>electrically and to help the air flow through the fins instead of around
>them. That much exposed metal which is directly connected to the battery
>positive through very thick cable in close proximity to the grounded metal
>brackets, hard lines, etc kinda scares me.

What the maker usually means by "dual outputs" is usually two
separate sets of diodes and separate output studs. You connect one to
the starting battery, and the other to the secondary deep-cycle
battery that runs your camper or ambulance or scientific gear. The
inside lights, water pumps, radios, furnace blower, stove vent hood,
suction pumps, and other "stuff".

The dual diode stack outputs mean that the two battery banks are
isolated from each other without an external battery isolator system -
your deep cycle battery loads can't run down the starting battery
you'll need to get going in the morning.

If they built a shroud to direct the air, I can guarantee it would
end up in the way on some installs. They would need two or three
alternates for various obstructions.

A shroud for the externally hung diode stacks could be done, but
it's easier to just make sure anyone who works under the hood on the
vehicle knows what they're doing - after all, the battery terminals on
all cars are constantly hot, and they are usually left exposed. If
you don't do anything too stupid they never give you a problem.

--<< Bruce >>--

From: Bruce L. Bergman on 25 Apr 2008 02:45

On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 12:24:36 -0700 (PDT), tomg(a)fullnet.com wrote:
>On Apr 24, 11:11�am, Retired VIP wrote:

><snipped>
>>
>> But I still question why he is looking for answers in a Toyota
>> newsgroup. �It would seem like he would be better served by going to
>> professionals and not a bunch of guys he doesn't know who are sitting
>> in front of keyboards.
>
>Because I am being as thorough as possible, on this one. ;-)
>
>[Also, I apparently respect the quality of the online community more
>than you do.]
>
>Thanks for your technical comments.

And some of us have DONE what he wants to do - but I didn't need
nearly that level of power, I'm usually fine if I can get 120 Amps hot
out of the alternator. I don't need to go too crazy on the mods.

Second battery, three two-way radios, scanner, 100W PA System, added
off-road lights and a twin rotor light bar, 4414A hazard flashers in
the back, winch, 1000W inverter, and a better stereo. As long as I
don't try running everything at once at idle, 120A covers it nicely.

Lestek, Leece-Neville and other "ambulance" alternators are the
best, but BOY do they want a lot for them. Much better (and a lot
less money) to have a local auto electric rebuild shop build up a
Delco/Delphi or Nippondenso unit with standard truck alternator guts
to do what you need, rather than going the full custom route.

Or find a truck sized alternator that will fit into the space you
have and has the same basic mounting style, and modify your brackets
as needed to mount it - that way you just walk in and say "I need an
alternator for a Hino 2-1/2 Ton Cab-over" and they know.

--<< Bruce >>--

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