Interesting 4WD behavior, 92 PU
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From: Jeff on 16 Oct 2007 15:26 DanG wrote: > "Eric R Snow" <etpm(a)whidbey.com> wrote in message > news:s4j9h3tm4fsocsc575rhgmoo9v0pvkshiq(a)4ax.com... >> Thanks for the advice Dan. {snip} >> Why should they be replaced by manual hubs? >> Thanks, >> Eric > > {snip} > > Auto hubs get a bad rap because they deserve it. They tend to not be engaged > when needed, and also not disengage when needed. It's just something to do > if you have the thing apart anyhow, and manuals are cheap. > The requirement of a obscure (and probably $pendy) grease for the auto hubs is another reason to replace them with manual AISIN hubs.
From: Eric R Snow on 17 Oct 2007 13:09 On Tue, 16 Oct 2007 12:26:03 -0700, Jeff <Not_this_soon(a)dot.net> wrote: >DanG wrote: >> "Eric R Snow" <etpm(a)whidbey.com> wrote in message >> news:s4j9h3tm4fsocsc575rhgmoo9v0pvkshiq(a)4ax.com... >>> Thanks for the advice Dan. {snip} > >> Why should they be replaced by manual hubs? >>> Thanks, >>> Eric >> >> {snip} >> >> Auto hubs get a bad rap because they deserve it. They tend to not be engaged >> when needed, and also not disengage when needed. It's just something to do >> if you have the thing apart anyhow, and manuals are cheap. >> > >The requirement of a obscure (and probably $pendy) grease for the auto >hubs is another reason to replace them with manual AISIN hubs. Thanks Everyone for the advice on hubs. When I take the thing apart I'll see how things look and make my decision. Cheers, Eric
From: Handyman on 17 Oct 2007 14:21 On Oct 16, 12:26 pm, Jeff <Not_this_s...(a)dot.net> wrote: > DanG wrote: > > "Eric R Snow" <e...(a)whidbey.com> wrote in message > >news:s4j9h3tm4fsocsc575rhgmoo9v0pvkshiq(a)4ax.com... > >> Thanks for the advice Dan. {snip} > > >> Why should they be replaced by manual hubs? > > >> Thanks, > >> Eric > > > {snip} > > > Auto hubs get a bad rap because they deserve it. They tend to not be engaged > > when needed, and also not disengage when needed. It's just something to do > > if you have the thing apart anyhow, and manuals are cheap. > > The requirement of a obscure (and probably $pendy) grease for the auto > hubs is another reason to replace them with manual AISIN hubs. Does the truck have auto hubs or an auto disconnecting differential? If it has the ADD option which my 91 does then there is nothing to maintain other than a good greasing of the front wheel bearings and the spline ends where the front drive shafts go into the hub plates. Be careful of those tapered washers when you take it apart, they are under pressure and "pop" out away from the studs. The first time I greased mine I spent more time looking around the garage for those tapered washers than I did actually performing the work. The best way to remove them is to loosen all of the cap nuts but do not remove them. Then use a metric bolt in the two threaded holes of the hub plate to push the plate away from the hub, then back out the two metric bolts you installed and tap the hub plate inward, the tapered washers should all release and stay on the studs. Once you get the entire hub and rotor assembly off of the spindle you can remove the rear seals and bearings, repack the bearings and replace the rear seals. I do mine every 100,000 miles with synthetic grease and so far with 300,000 miles nothing has failed. Replacing them with manual hubs would just be redundant unless you replaced the ADD differential with a constantly engaged one.
From: DruG on 19 Oct 2007 20:37 "Handyman" <sgt_az(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1192645272.603816.167020(a)e34g2000pro.googlegroups.com... > On Oct 16, 12:26 pm, Jeff <Not_this_s...(a)dot.net> wrote: >> DanG wrote: >> > "Eric R Snow" <e...(a)whidbey.com> wrote in message >> >news:s4j9h3tm4fsocsc575rhgmoo9v0pvkshiq(a)4ax.com... >> >> Thanks for the advice Dan. {snip} >> >> >> Why should they be replaced by manual hubs? >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Eric >> >> > {snip} >> >> > Auto hubs get a bad rap because they deserve it. They tend to not be >> > engaged >> > when needed, and also not disengage when needed. It's just something to >> > do >> > if you have the thing apart anyhow, and manuals are cheap. >> >> The requirement of a obscure (and probably $pendy) grease for the auto >> hubs is another reason to replace them with manual AISIN hubs. > > Does the truck have auto hubs or an auto disconnecting > differential? If it has the ADD option which my 91 does then there is > nothing to maintain other than a good greasing of the front wheel > bearings and the spline ends where the front drive shafts go into the > hub plates. Be careful of those tapered washers when you take it > apart, they are under pressure and "pop" out away from the studs. The > first time I greased mine I spent more time looking around the garage > for those tapered washers than I did actually performing the work. > The best way to remove them is to loosen all of the cap nuts but do > not remove them. Then use a metric bolt in the two threaded holes of > the hub plate to push the plate away from the hub, then back out the > two metric bolts you installed and tap the hub plate inward, the > tapered washers should all release and stay on the studs. Once you > get the entire hub and rotor assembly off of the spindle you can > remove the rear seals and bearings, repack the bearings and replace > the rear seals. I do mine every 100,000 miles with synthetic grease > and so far with 300,000 miles nothing has failed. > Replacing them with manual hubs would just be redundant unless you > replaced the ADD differential with a constantly engaged one. I disagree with that. Switching to manual hubs will save wear on your cv's and some other stuff as your driveshafts won't be spinning all the time. I also just disconnected the the vacuum line from the ADD dif so that it would not disenage and I've had no problems since. Everything seems to work as if I had a full manual system. I think I had the exact same problem as the OP. I'd just bought the truck so I just took it to the shop and it cost $500 bucks to fix. Cheers, -Andrew
From: DanG on 19 Oct 2007 23:02
> I disagree with that. Switching to manual hubs will save wear on your > cv's > and some other stuff as your driveshafts won't be spinning all the time. > I also just disconnected the the vacuum line from the ADD dif so that it > would not disenage and I've had no problems since. Everything seems to > work as if I had a full manual system. > I think I had the exact same problem as the OP. I'd just bought the truck > so I just took it to the shop and it cost $500 bucks to fix. > > Cheers, > -Andrew > > > Reality check: There's virtually no wear on shaft bearings and CV joints unless the unit is in 4WD. |