Prev: Learn to Speak Tea Bag
Next: Secret Police Fighting America?s Second Civil War
From: Paul Flansburg on 29 Apr 2010 09:31
On Apr 28, 10:28 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
wrote:
> "Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansb...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:3006d0e0-2170-4fb8-9270-63ee0f60371f(a)y12g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hello,
>
> > I'm sure that this has been discussed, clutch chatter, but I have a
> > symptom that others have not mentioned or experienced.  My clutch
> > works perfect when the ambient temperature is typically below ~70
> > degrees F.  When the outside temperature starts to get above ~70 F
> > then my clutch will start to chatter.  I didn't have a single problem
> > during the cooler months, but now that the temp. is rising the chatter
> > has started again while starting in 1st gear and reverse.  No other
> > gear is effected.
>
> > Any suggestions to the issue?
>
> > I thought about the clutch/brake fluid getting hotter, but I'm not
> > sure if this would cause the chatter with 1st gear or not.  If
> > something was broken, warped, sorched, or leaking I would think that
> > the chatter would happen all of the time.
>
> > Thanks,
> > paul
>
> Crawl underneath the truck and check the frame where the motor mounts attach
> for rust or cracks.
>
> Check the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing to make sure it is not
> hanging up.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks Ray,

Although I'm not a mechanic I am some what mecanically incline. Could
you please explain what I should see? Such as, should I have someone
pushing on the clutch and if so, what will I be looking for? My
assumption is that the clutch cylinder is on the drivers side of the
bell housing?

Thanks,
Paul
From: Ray O on 29 Apr 2010 18:02

"Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansburg(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
news:58ed2a07-1af4-4338-84f4-e97f47ca29a5(a)o1g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 28, 10:28 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
wrote:
> "Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansb...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:3006d0e0-2170-4fb8-9270-63ee0f60371f(a)y12g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hello,
>
> > I'm sure that this has been discussed, clutch chatter, but I have a
> > symptom that others have not mentioned or experienced. My clutch
> > works perfect when the ambient temperature is typically below ~70
> > degrees F. When the outside temperature starts to get above ~70 F
> > then my clutch will start to chatter. I didn't have a single problem
> > during the cooler months, but now that the temp. is rising the chatter
> > has started again while starting in 1st gear and reverse. No other
> > gear is effected.
>
> > Any suggestions to the issue?
>
> > I thought about the clutch/brake fluid getting hotter, but I'm not
> > sure if this would cause the chatter with 1st gear or not. If
> > something was broken, warped, sorched, or leaking I would think that
> > the chatter would happen all of the time.
>
> > Thanks,
> > paul
>
> Crawl underneath the truck and check the frame where the motor mounts
> attach
> for rust or cracks.
>
> Check the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing to make sure it is not
> hanging up.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks Ray,

Although I'm not a mechanic I am some what mecanically incline. Could
you please explain what I should see? Such as, should I have someone
pushing on the clutch and if so, what will I be looking for? My
assumption is that the clutch cylinder is on the drivers side of the
bell housing?

Thanks,
Paul

*******************
First, set the parking brake and chock the wheels so that the vehicle cannot
roll in any direction (for obvious reasons).

You can find instructions of how to check the clutch and slave cylinder at
www.autozone.com, then register your vehicle there. Autozone doesn't send
spam, and their site is pretty handy. You can get access to the factory
repair manual at techinfo.toyota.com for something like $15 per day but I'm
cheap so I use autozone.

The clutch slave cylinder (I think it is called a clutch release cylinder
should be on the driver's side of the bell housing and have fluid lines that
look like brake lines attached. Most have a rod that is covered with a
rubber boot, and when the clutch pedal is depressed, the rod should extend,
which moves the lever that passes through the bell housing. The movement
should be very smooth and even with no jerkiness. If the external linkages
look rusted, give them a shot of lithium grease. Carefully pull back the
rubber boot to make sure there is no fluid leaking or corrosion under the
boot.

It probably wouldn't hurt to replace the fluid in the system (use DOT 3
brake fluid). Follow the instructions at the autozone site.

good luck!

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)



From: Paul Flansburg on 29 Apr 2010 19:59
On Apr 29, 6:02 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
wrote:
> "Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansb...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:58ed2a07-1af4-4338-84f4-e97f47ca29a5(a)o1g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 28, 10:28 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansb...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:3006d0e0-2170-4fb8-9270-63ee0f60371f(a)y12g2000vbr.googlegroups.com....
>
> > > Hello,
>
> > > I'm sure that this has been discussed, clutch chatter, but I have a
> > > symptom that others have not mentioned or experienced. My clutch
> > > works perfect when the ambient temperature is typically below ~70
> > > degrees F. When the outside temperature starts to get above ~70 F
> > > then my clutch will start to chatter. I didn't have a single problem
> > > during the cooler months, but now that the temp. is rising the chatter
> > > has started again while starting in 1st gear and reverse. No other
> > > gear is effected.
>
> > > Any suggestions to the issue?
>
> > > I thought about the clutch/brake fluid getting hotter, but I'm not
> > > sure if this would cause the chatter with 1st gear or not. If
> > > something was broken, warped, sorched, or leaking I would think that
> > > the chatter would happen all of the time.
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > paul
>
> > Crawl underneath the truck and check the frame where the motor mounts
> > attach
> > for rust or cracks.
>
> > Check the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing to make sure it is not
> > hanging up.
> > --
>
> > Ray O
> > (correct punctuation to reply)- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Thanks Ray,
>
> Although I'm not a mechanic I am some what mecanically incline.  Could
> you please explain what I should see?  Such as, should I have someone
> pushing on the clutch and if so, what will I be looking for?  My
> assumption is that the clutch cylinder is on the drivers side of the
> bell housing?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
> *******************
> First, set the parking brake and chock the wheels so that the vehicle cannot
> roll in any direction (for obvious reasons).
>
> You can find instructions of how to check the clutch and slave cylinder atwww.autozone.com, then register your vehicle there.  Autozone doesn't send
> spam, and their site is pretty handy.  You can get access to the factory
> repair manual at techinfo.toyota.com for something like $15 per day but I'm
> cheap so I use autozone.
>
> The clutch slave cylinder (I think it is called a clutch release cylinder
> should be on the driver's side of the bell housing and have fluid lines that
> look like brake lines attached.  Most have a rod that is covered with a
> rubber boot, and when the clutch pedal is depressed, the rod should extend,
> which moves the lever that passes through the bell housing.  The movement
> should be very smooth and even with no jerkiness.  If the external linkages
> look rusted, give them a shot of lithium grease.  Carefully pull back the
> rubber boot to make sure there is no fluid leaking or corrosion under the
> boot.
>
> It probably wouldn't hurt to replace the fluid in the system (use DOT 3
> brake fluid).  Follow the instructions at the autozone site.
>
> good luck!
>
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks Ray,

I understand the cheap part because I'm right there with ya. Thats
why I try to fix as much as I can. As for bleeding, I understand how
to bleed the brakes. I was planning on doing it when I change the oil
soon, but Is there a particular way to bleed the clutch? Is it
similar to the brakes? I'll also check out autozone.com.

Thanks,
Paul
From: Ray O on 30 Apr 2010 01:50

"Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansburg(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2bc80116-b345-4bc1-a64c-6ebc7068a4d2(a)c7g2000vbc.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 29, 6:02 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
wrote:
> "Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansb...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:58ed2a07-1af4-4338-84f4-e97f47ca29a5(a)o1g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 28, 10:28 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Paul Flansburg" <paul.flansb...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:3006d0e0-2170-4fb8-9270-63ee0f60371f(a)y12g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > Hello,
>
> > > I'm sure that this has been discussed, clutch chatter, but I have a
> > > symptom that others have not mentioned or experienced. My clutch
> > > works perfect when the ambient temperature is typically below ~70
> > > degrees F. When the outside temperature starts to get above ~70 F
> > > then my clutch will start to chatter. I didn't have a single problem
> > > during the cooler months, but now that the temp. is rising the chatter
> > > has started again while starting in 1st gear and reverse. No other
> > > gear is effected.
>
> > > Any suggestions to the issue?
>
> > > I thought about the clutch/brake fluid getting hotter, but I'm not
> > > sure if this would cause the chatter with 1st gear or not. If
> > > something was broken, warped, sorched, or leaking I would think that
> > > the chatter would happen all of the time.
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > paul
>
> > Crawl underneath the truck and check the frame where the motor mounts
> > attach
> > for rust or cracks.
>
> > Check the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing to make sure it is
> > not
> > hanging up.
> > --
>
> > Ray O
> > (correct punctuation to reply)- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Thanks Ray,
>
> Although I'm not a mechanic I am some what mecanically incline. Could
> you please explain what I should see? Such as, should I have someone
> pushing on the clutch and if so, what will I be looking for? My
> assumption is that the clutch cylinder is on the drivers side of the
> bell housing?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
> *******************
> First, set the parking brake and chock the wheels so that the vehicle
> cannot
> roll in any direction (for obvious reasons).
>
> You can find instructions of how to check the clutch and slave cylinder
> atwww.autozone.com, then register your vehicle there. Autozone doesn't
> send
> spam, and their site is pretty handy. You can get access to the factory
> repair manual at techinfo.toyota.com for something like $15 per day but
> I'm
> cheap so I use autozone.
>
> The clutch slave cylinder (I think it is called a clutch release cylinder
> should be on the driver's side of the bell housing and have fluid lines
> that
> look like brake lines attached. Most have a rod that is covered with a
> rubber boot, and when the clutch pedal is depressed, the rod should
> extend,
> which moves the lever that passes through the bell housing. The movement
> should be very smooth and even with no jerkiness. If the external linkages
> look rusted, give them a shot of lithium grease. Carefully pull back the
> rubber boot to make sure there is no fluid leaking or corrosion under the
> boot.
>
> It probably wouldn't hurt to replace the fluid in the system (use DOT 3
> brake fluid). Follow the instructions at the autozone site.
>
> good luck!
>
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks Ray,

I understand the cheap part because I'm right there with ya. Thats
why I try to fix as much as I can. As for bleeding, I understand how
to bleed the brakes. I was planning on doing it when I change the oil
soon, but Is there a particular way to bleed the clutch? Is it
similar to the brakes? I'll also check out autozone.com.

Thanks,
Paul

**********
Paul,
Bleeding the hydraulic clutch system is like bleeding brakes. Use an old
turkey baster to stuck out as much fluid as you can from the clutch master
cylinder, which is mounted on the firewall next to the brake master
cylinder. The clutch master cylinder looks like a brake master cylinder
except that it is not mounted on a vacuum, booster.

After you remove as much old fluid as you can, top the reservoir off with
fresh fluid. The fluid type should be noted on the reservoir cap or in your
owner's manual, probably DOT 3 brake fluid.

Have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you open the bleeder screw on
the slave cylinder. If you have one, use a flare nut wrench on the bleeder
screw to avoid stripping it. I believe the nut should take a 10 mm wrench.
Repeat the bleeding until the fluid color changes, and be sure to top off
the reservoir as necessary.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


First  |  Prev  | 
Pages: 1 2
Prev: Learn to Speak Tea Bag
Next: Secret Police Fighting America?s Second Civil War