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From: yj_ouyang on 11 Jan 2007 00:43 I have a '95 camry, the headlight cover seems cloudy, i try to clear it, but i can't take it out. So how can i do?
From: Daniel on 11 Jan 2007 09:29 yj_ouy...(a)hotmail.com wrote: > I have a '95 camry, the headlight cover seems cloudy, i try to clear > it, but i can't take it out. So how can i do? ====================== Meguiars makes a foam "power ball" attachment that you can chuck into a drill motor. Meguiars also makes a plastic polish you can use. If you don't want the expense of these items - although they work great at removing the surface abrasion and clouding from years of pushing through atmospheric grit, you can just get a white polishing compound used for body work - a fine compound - not the rubbing compound, and apply it by hand with a cotton cloth.
From: johngdole on 14 Jan 2007 21:37 A quick search on the web shows: http://www.mdwholesale.com/ http://trucks.about.com/od/autorepair/ss/lens_restorer.htm You might want to check the local auto parts stores too and see if they have something similar. At $15.99 (plus shipping?) it's not bad if works as advertised. yj_ouyang(a)hotmail.com wrote: > I have a '95 camry, the headlight cover seems cloudy, i try to clear > it, but i can't take it out. So how can i do?
From: davemac on 15 Jan 2007 00:36 The best way to clean them up is to wet sand them with 3M paper starting at 1000, and working your way thru 1500, 2000, then 2500. Sand in one direction for one step, then the opposite direction for the next step. Clean the lense off when you think you have thoroughly sanded it and make sure all your scratch lines are in the same direction you sanded and are uniform. Uniformity is important for good results, especially if the lense is in bad shape and is yellowing. If it's not uniform, continue your sanding with the same paper grade. When you get to 2500, do it in both directions. Finally, you can use a rubbing compound once or twice, then finish off with a plastic polish. Some key points: 1. use a little bit of dish soap in the water and soak the sandpaper thoroughly. Always ensure that the paper is well lubricated when sanding the lense. Re-dip it in the water often. 2. Don't mix up the different paper grades. Either use a separate bucket of water for each grade, or thoroughly rinse out the bucket between grade applications and put fresh water/soap in for each step. 3. You only need light, even pressure when wet sanding. Only apply enough pressure using your fingertips so that you can feel the paper cutting initially. As you progress up thru the grades, you will feel this less. Dave Mc
From: sharx35 on 15 Jan 2007 01:56
"davemac" <davemac2(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:1168839395.212614.241830(a)51g2000cwl.googlegroups.com... > The best way to clean them up is to wet sand them with 3M paper > starting at 1000, and working your way thru 1500, 2000, then 2500. > Sand in one direction for one step, then the opposite direction for the > next step. Clean the lense off when you think you have thoroughly > sanded it and make sure all your scratch lines are in the same > direction you sanded and are uniform. Uniformity is important for good > results, especially if the lense is in bad shape and is yellowing. If > it's not uniform, continue your sanding with the same paper grade. > When you get to 2500, do it in both directions. Finally, you can use a > rubbing compound once or twice, then finish off with a plastic polish. > > > Some key points: > > 1. use a little bit of dish soap in the water and soak the sandpaper > thoroughly. Always ensure that the paper is well lubricated when > sanding the lense. Re-dip it in the water often. > > 2. Don't mix up the different paper grades. Either use a separate > bucket of water for each grade, or thoroughly rinse out the bucket > between grade applications and put fresh water/soap in for each step. > > 3. You only need light, even pressure when wet sanding. Only apply > enough pressure using your fingertips so that you can feel the paper > cutting initially. As you progress up thru the grades, you will feel > this less. > > Dave Mc Bah, all THAT work makes it cheaper to just REPLACE them. That is, if you value your own time. > |