a little off for some groups: 1989 Mazda 626 clacking from top of engine
in [Toyota]
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From: Hachiroku ハチロク on 3 Apr 2007 16:15 On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 02:27:53 +0000, Hachiroku ハチロク wrote: > I'm crossing this to Honda and Toyota because there are some sharp > individuals in these groups, and also in the Ford group since this is a > common engine among Fords, IIRC. > > The problem: 1989 Mazda 626. Over the course of the winter, occasionally > on cold days the engine would clack from just under the valve cover. Since > I seem to recall seeing somewhere that this engine has hydraulic lifters > of some sort, it just seemed that allowing the engine to warm and > circulate oil would cause this to stop as the lifters (or whatever!) > responded to the rise in oil pressure. It always worked, and when it > didn't, I would check the oil, add 2/3 3/4 of a quart, and be done with > it. Interesting: There is a Horrible ticking from under may valve cover. What is it? How can i fix it? This is your Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLAs) starving of oil. HLAs are essentially maintenance free and as soon as they start to tick they are supposed to be replaced. Unfortunately Mazda/Ford wants an arm and a leg for them. There is a way to squeeze some life out of them. 1. Pour some ATX oil into your engine. DO NOT USE A LOT, 300ML WILL BE SUFFICIENT. Auto transmission oil/fluid is VERY high in detergents so it will remove most of the gunk from the HLAs and anything else that oil has contact with. Drive on this oil mixture for a day or two, no more. 2. During an oil change, get yourself some engine flush(readily available at any Auto parts retailer) follow instruction on the can/bottle 3. Put new oil in. If this procedure did not fix your HLA tick (not to be confused with injector tick which is normal) you ether will need to clean HLAs physically or replace them. This procedure is not recommended for engines which have some oil consumption, as this will clean out all the gunk in piston rings as well, and you might end up using more oil and smoke badly too ____________________________________________________________________ I was approaching an oil change anyway. I wonder if adding more MMO might have a similar effect...
From: Hachiroku ハチロク on 3 Apr 2007 23:11 On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 19:35:34 -0700, jim beam wrote: > Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote: >> On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 12:46:23 +0000, E Meyer wrote: >> >> >>> >>> On 4/2/07 9:27 PM, in article JYiQh.8917$IY4.8369(a)trndny03, "Hachiroku >>> ハチロ ク" <Trueno(a)AE86.gts> wrote: >>> >>>> I'm crossing this to Honda and Toyota because there are some sharp >>>> individuals in these groups, and also in the Ford group since this is >>>> a common engine among Fords, IIRC. >>>> >>>> The problem: 1989 Mazda 626. Over the course of the winter, >>>> occasionally on cold days the engine would clack from just under the >>>> valve cover. Since I seem to recall seeing somewhere that this engine >>>> has hydraulic lifters of some sort, it just seemed that allowing the >>>> engine to warm and circulate oil would cause this to stop as the >>>> lifters (or whatever!) responded to the rise in oil pressure. It >>>> always worked, and when it didn't, I would check the oil, add 2/3 3/4 >>>> of a quart, and be done with it. >>>> >>>> Saturday the oil was down less than 1/4 from the Full on the dipstick. >>>> Since it's getting an oil change in about 500 miles, I let it go. >>>> >>>> This morning I had to make a trip about 30-35 miles one way. When I >>>> returned home I noticed the engine was making a louder noise than >>>> usual, and when I went to investigate it was the clacking noise from >>>> under the Valver Cover. I shut the car off and let it cool. >>>> >>>> Before I left the house later, I added 2/3 of a quart of Castrol >>>> Synthetic (the closest bottle of oil I had) and started it. I let it >>>> run for a while but the clacking continued. I added about 1/3 quart of >>>> Marvel Mystery and let it run till warm and the noise never went away. >>>> After parking the car for about 2.5 hours, when I started it up the >>>> clacking was still there. I drove home still clacking, but quieter. >>>> >>>> The partiulars: this is the 2.0L 12-vavle engine, OHC, new timing belt >>>> <3,000 miles ago, fuel injected. It's going to get parked in 1-3 weeks >>>> when I take my Supra out of winter storage. Any ideas about what it is >>>> or what I should look for? If I find the Haynes I will be able to >>>> answer more questions concerning the motor. It looks good and runs >>>> great, even with the clacking. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> I used to have a '90 Mazda B2200 pickup. There was an acknowledged >>> problem with the engine in those that the oil ports to the valve >>> hydraulics were too small. It started making the noise at startup at >>> about 30k miles. Switching it to Mobil 1 5w-30 fixed the problem for >>> the remaining 10 years that I owned it. >>> >>> IIRC thicker oils made the problem worse, and for some reason, that >>> engine absolutely hated Castrol synthetic - mileage dropped and it >>> would use a quart/1000 miles with Castrol, but never used a drop with >>> any other brand of oil. >> >> >> I wonder if flushing and refilling with lighter weight oil will prevent >> me from having to rip out the Lash Adjusters... >> > try it. i have no idea what that mystery oil stuff is, but there's a > reason motor manufacturers say not to use additives like that... Never tried Marvel Mystery Oil?! I started using it in 1978 on a '78 Corolla. Engine went about 65,000 miles...then a guy in a Mustang pulled right out in front of me! However, it's replacement went 6 years and 244,000 miles, and IT'S replacement went 20 years and 259,000 miles...and more if I ever fix the rust... The 1.8 in the '80 Corolla and the 1.6 in the '85 Corolla GTS both hold 4 quarts with filter. I put in 3.5 quarts of Castrol GTX 10W-30 or 40, and 1 quart of MMO. No oil problems at all! It's a very light oil, red in color and smells a bit funky, but with returns like that I'm a believer! It's kind of like ATF. I add it to everything now...snowblowers, lawnmowers, etc. When I park my power equipment for the summer/winter, I spray a little into the spark plug hole to keep the cylinders and valves from rusting.
From: Hachiroku ハチロク on 4 Apr 2007 10:27 On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 20:35:22 -0700, jim beam wrote: >> It's a very light oil, red in color and smells a bit funky, but with >> returns like that I'm a believer! It's kind of like ATF. I add it to >> everything now...snowblowers, lawnmowers, etc. When I park my power >> equipment for the summer/winter, I spray a little into the spark plug >> hole to keep the cylinders and valves from rusting. >> > so what's in it? if you don't know, you're out of your mind using it. > > and a corolla engine will do 259,000 miles on walmart house brand oil, let > alone gtx. ascribing longevity to something on which you have no testing, > no controls and which is proven unnecessary is quite ridiculous. That's OK. It works for me! Last compression check I did, all the cylinders were between 120-125 PSI. Considering that's what they were in 1991 when the car was six years old, I'd say that's pretty good. There are a lot of people who use MMO regularly, and most of them are driving high-mileage vehicles, Japanese or not. (One I know has an '88 Chevy truck with 350,000 miles on it, and has never had to mess with the engine)
From: Hachiroku ハチロク on 4 Apr 2007 13:44 On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 02:27:53 +0000, Hachiroku ハチロク wrote: > I'm crossing this to Honda and Toyota because there are some sharp > individuals in these groups, and also in the Ford group since this is a > common engine among Fords, IIRC. > > The problem: 1989 Mazda 626. Over the course of the winter, occasionally > on cold days the engine would clack from just under the valve cover. Since > I seem to recall seeing somewhere that this engine has hydraulic lifters > of some sort, it just seemed that allowing the engine to warm and > circulate oil would cause this to stop as the lifters (or whatever!) > responded to the rise in oil pressure. It always worked, and when it > didn't, I would check the oil, add 2/3 3/4 of a quart, and be done with > it. Thanks to everyone who responded! Ray O wins the prize: It looks like a collapsed Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. These look pretty easy to remove and replace, but I have found a number of resources on the web as to how to clean them. Also, I will try the 'lazy man's' way suggested by another poster, ie adding ATF or Marvel Oil before the next oil change. It was due in 500 more miles anyway, so I'll try 'flushing' it and see what happens. One method suggests simply sliding the rockers and pulling the HLAs out and cleaning them, another prescribes removing the rocker cams and arms and a thorough cleaning. Since the car is so clean, I will probably do this after I park it for the summer! Pray for me...(I can be a Gumby at times!)
From: Remove This on 4 Apr 2007 13:46
"Hachiroku ハチロク" <Trueno(a)AE86.gts> wrote in message > Pray for me...(I can be a Gumby at times!) LOL... Welcome to the club... -- " ya gotta let it out, Captain! " ( Jaime Brockett ) |