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From: Michael Golden on 30 Oct 2009 23:18 larry moe 'n curly wrote: > Michael Golden wrote: > > > > Pardon the on-topic post. > > > > The dealer is wanting to change the serpentine belt on my '07 Yaris > > with 55K miles. > > > > I'm seeing this belt online for about $10. That's considerably less > > than the $133 the dealer is wanting for parts and labor. Has anyone > > here changed one of these belts? > > > > I'm trying to find out how difficult a job it is to do it myself. > > It's not bad. From the factory manual (some available free at > www.PDFtown.com): > > http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2678/4059944352_37d4c5f395_o.gif > > http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2454/4059944388_b52447aa18_o.gif > > http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2684/4059200639_17412c6bd6_o.gif > > http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2443/4059944424_4c3d82726c_o.gif > > http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3477/4059200669_6df5c687ce_o.gif > > http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/4059200677_316db72433_o.gif Thanks for the links. It's more involved than my '95 Buick Century's belt but appears straightforward enough.
From: Hachiroku ハチロク on 30 Oct 2009 22:34 On Fri, 30 Oct 2009 19:35:42 -0700, larry moe 'n curly wrote: > > > Hachiroku ハチロク wrote: >> >> On Sat, 31 Oct 2009 01:13:04 +0000, Michael Golden wrote: >> >> > The dealer is wanting to change the serpentine belt on my '07 Yaris >> > with 55K miles. >> >> Is it worn, screeching, frayed, etc? Why are you having it changed? Most >> of these belts go 75,000+ > > I recently learned that some belts are now made of a different type of > rubber, EPDM (also used for radiator hoses) that doesn't crack but manages > to keep looking brand new until the belt fails. So apparently the only > way to check the condition if there's nothing obviously wrong is by > measuring the belt's cross section. Gates Rubber is giving out gauges for > to do that: > > http://www.gatesprograms.com/beltwear GREAT! It looks new until it catastrophically fails! Must be really great for judging the life of a timing belt on an old car you know nothing about!
From: Jeff Strickland on 31 Oct 2009 12:14 "Michael Golden" <mgolden(a)bkbusa.com> wrote in message news:7l1h8vF3c8qe6U1(a)mid.individual.net... > Pardon the on-topic post. > > The dealer is wanting to change the serpentine belt on my '07 Yaris > with 55K miles. > > I'm seeing this belt online for about $10. That's considerably less > than the $133 the dealer is wanting for parts and labor. Has anyone > here changed one of these belts? > > I'm trying to find out how difficult a job it is to do it myself. 1.) I'm nbot sure this belt is needed now. I have a car and a truck that I've had longer than you've had your Yaris, and the belts are fine. Granted, having a belt fail is never fun, but I doubt very seriously that your belt is anywhere near end-life. 2.) Replacing a belt is a relatively easy task. There are a few tricks, but the work is easy on most cars. I don't know the Yaris configuration per se, but the rules of thumb apply. Any pulley that's smooth will have the outside surface of the belt, and any pulley that's grooved will have the inside surface. The part about the Yaris that I don't know is, what obsiticles there might be. A typical belt is tensioned by a spring. Find the pulley that is mounted on a bracket that can house a coil spring (a spring wrapped around the axis) and there will be a square hole that fits a 3/8- or 1/2-inch ratchet handle. Use the handle to move the pulley in a direction to relax the belt, lift the belt off then wrap the new belt and place it over the tensioner and release.
From: Jeff Strickland on 31 Oct 2009 12:17 "Michael Golden" <mgolden(a)bkbusa.com> wrote in message news:7l1oglF3c0sdgU1(a)mid.individual.net... > Hachiroku ハチロク wrote: > >> On Sat, 31 Oct 2009 01:13:04 +0000, Michael Golden wrote: >> >> > Pardon the on-topic post. >> >> >> Just don't let it happen too often... >> >> Actually, we just talk {BS} until someone posts something about cars. >> >> Since this is a Toyota group, that's not often. >> >> > >> > The dealer is wanting to change the serpentine belt on my '07 Yaris >> > with 55K miles. >> >> Is it worn, screeching, frayed, etc? Why are you having it changed? >> Most of these belts go 75,000+ > > Dealer says its dry rotted. My dealer told my daughter that her brake pads had 3mm remaining. I bought new pads and went to work in the brakes. The material remaining was more than 70% of the matrerial on the new pads.
From: Michael Golden on 1 Nov 2009 18:19 Jeff Strickland wrote: > 1.) I'm nbot sure this belt is needed now. I have a car and a truck > that I've had longer than you've had your Yaris, and the belts are > fine. Granted, having a belt fail is never fun, but I doubt very > seriously that your belt is anywhere near end-life. $10 bucks and an hours time is worth the peace of mind. > > 2.) Replacing a belt is a relatively easy task. There are a few > tricks, but the work is easy on most cars. I don't know the Yaris > configuration per se, but the rules of thumb apply. Any pulley that's > smooth will have the outside surface of the belt, and any pulley > that's grooved will have the inside surface. The part about the Yaris > that I don't know is, what obsiticles there might be. Typical of everything Yaris, the space around the pulleys is limited. > > A typical belt is tensioned by a spring. Find the pulley that is > mounted on a bracket that can house a coil spring (a spring wrapped > around the axis) and there will be a square hole that fits a 3/8- or > 1/2-inch ratchet handle. Use the handle to move the pulley in a > direction to relax the belt, lift the belt off then wrap the new belt > and place it over the tensioner and release. That's exactly how it is on my '95 Buick Century. Very easy belt changes but the pulley itself is a point of failure. The Yaris has no idler pulleys. Everything the belt loops around performs a function with the alternator providing belt tension.
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