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From: john on 28 Sep 2009 02:03
It's too bad the shop doesn't follow your instructions. However the
"green" may actually be one of the many new OAT formulations out there
(can you find out?) If that's the case, the main concern is if the
coolant has 2EHA acid, which is a plasticizer that can soften cheap
plastics in the cooling system. Valvoline Asian and Peake Global are
two aftermarket 150K mile coolants without the 2EHA. I'd think they
are better alternatives to Toyota Red than Prestone All-Makes or GM
Dexcool.

The old silicated coolant is very effective at fighting cavitation
corrosion. Traditionally the only pumps can't deal with silicates are
Asian import pumps. The cheap rubber seal can't deal with silicates
like domestic/European carbide seals. But silicates are primarily used
in European cars these days with GM, for example, having no silicates
at all in the Dexcool.

I'd still want to see only the Toyota Red, or Peake Global coolants in
the system. Repeated drain/refill with distilled water should flush
the old coolant out. It helps to take the thermostat out. But this
works only when you're using concentrates, so that rules out Valvoline
Asian or Toyota Pink (pre-mixed), at least initially.

Today's coolants should mix with all others, at least that's the claim
if you read them all (and still believe them). ;)


On Sep 26, 2:01 pm, Leftie <N...(a)Thanks.net> wrote:
>     We had the water pump and timing belt done on our '95 wagon last
> year. The parts were aftermarket, not Toyota, but we asked for Toyota
> coolant. Now it appears they used the regular green stuff. The car is
> behaving ok, but the reservoir is nearly empty (this *may* be normal
> evaporation) and there is a red scum in the reservoir. Do we have it
> power flushed with the original radiator still there, or not? Red
> coolant or green?

From: Leftie on 29 Sep 2009 00:23
john wrote:
> It's too bad the shop doesn't follow your instructions. However the
> "green" may actually be one of the many new OAT formulations out there
> (can you find out?) If that's the case, the main concern is if the
> coolant has 2EHA acid, which is a plasticizer that can soften cheap
> plastics in the cooling system. Valvoline Asian and Peake Global are
> two aftermarket 150K mile coolants without the 2EHA. I'd think they
> are better alternatives to Toyota Red than Prestone All-Makes or GM
> Dexcool.
>
> The old silicated coolant is very effective at fighting cavitation
> corrosion. Traditionally the only pumps can't deal with silicates are
> Asian import pumps. The cheap rubber seal can't deal with silicates
> like domestic/European carbide seals. But silicates are primarily used
> in European cars these days with GM, for example, having no silicates
> at all in the Dexcool.
>
> I'd still want to see only the Toyota Red, or Peake Global coolants in
> the system. Repeated drain/refill with distilled water should flush
> the old coolant out. It helps to take the thermostat out. But this
> works only when you're using concentrates, so that rules out Valvoline
> Asian or Toyota Pink (pre-mixed), at least initially.
>
> Today's coolants should mix with all others, at least that's the claim
> if you read them all (and still believe them). ;)

The car is going to get a 'drain and fill' at a dealership tomorrow,
and we've told them to look for leaks. Let's hope they don't find any.


>
>
> On Sep 26, 2:01 pm, Leftie <N...(a)Thanks.net> wrote:
>> We had the water pump and timing belt done on our '95 wagon last
>> year. The parts were aftermarket, not Toyota, but we asked for Toyota
>> coolant. Now it appears they used the regular green stuff. The car is
>> behaving ok, but the reservoir is nearly empty (this *may* be normal
>> evaporation) and there is a red scum in the reservoir. Do we have it
>> power flushed with the original radiator still there, or not? Red
>> coolant or green?
>
From: hls on 30 Sep 2009 14:08

"Leftie" <No(a)Thanks.net> wrote in message news:1uAwm.214886
> My housemate brought the car to a local dealer, and while they
> "found" many things wrong with the car, they didn't find any leaks in
> the cooling system. It got drained and refilled. Fingers crossed.

Good. I hope this will solve your anxiety about the situation. Remember,
though.... dont let that overflow cannister go empty. There is, or should
be, a line on it for the minimum fill level. You dont want to be sucking
air into an engine when the engine cools and draws the overflow back
into the engine.
From: Leftie on 30 Sep 2009 17:18
hls wrote:
>
> "Leftie" <No(a)Thanks.net> wrote in message news:1uAwm.214886
>> My housemate brought the car to a local dealer, and while they
>> "found" many things wrong with the car, they didn't find any leaks in
>> the cooling system. It got drained and refilled. Fingers crossed.
>
> Good. I hope this will solve your anxiety about the situation.
> Remember, though.... dont let that overflow cannister go empty. There
> is, or should
> be, a line on it for the minimum fill level. You dont want to be sucking
> air into an engine when the engine cools and draws the overflow back
> into the engine.


Yes, I know how to check it. Again, the car wasn't used that much,
so it wasn't checked often. Now it will be.
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