From: McGyver on 27 Jul 2006 02:05 Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a 3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to look for or look out for. Thanks, Chris
From: Porch on 28 Jul 2006 19:51 Get an engine gasket kit from the dealer. It will have everything you need. Replace every gasket you can. Nothing is worse then going back in to replace a bad gasket you reused. If you use a small, 12 point socket, you can get the head bolts loose without removing the cam. I just did it 2 weeks ago. The problem is the cam blocks the head bolts from being removed all the way out. You should replace the head bolts when removing the heads. They tend to stretch. I removed the camshaft (not really a big issue anyway, just don't let the shims fall out like I did) after I removed the heads. I didn't have a cam pully holding tool (that I now see Amazon has for about 15 bucks) and I could not get the pullys off. You don't have to remove the exhaust manfolds, but you will have to remove all the pipes and the cross over. When reinstalling the heads, make sure the crossover is correctly back on before you bolt everything down. Put a new timing belt, all pullys, and water pump since you will be in the area. And get the service manual. Getting everything back on and lined up correct is real easy when the book tells you what marks to line up. And mark all the stupid vacume lines. If you misplace just one line, you will be spending hours trying to track down strange engine problems. McGyver wrote: > Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a > 3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions > that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include > > a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into > the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel > > rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as > removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior > to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of > > the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools > I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to > look for or look out for. > Thanks, > Chris
From: Tony on 28 Jul 2006 20:44 I hope that you did replace the head bolts, they are torque to yeild bolts (tty) and can shear quite easily when resused and torqued down properly. -- Tony 95 Toyota Tacoma 2wd K&N FIPK Generation 2 w/ Throttle Body Spacer Fiberglass fenders w/ 31x1050 BFG A/T KO's "Porch" <eddies(a)softhome.net> wrote in message news:1154130703.409234.115230(a)i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Get an engine gasket kit from the dealer. It will have everything you > need. Replace every gasket you can. Nothing is worse then going back in > to replace a bad gasket you reused. > > If you use a small, 12 point socket, you can get the head bolts loose > without removing the cam. I just did it 2 weeks ago. The problem is the > cam blocks the head bolts from being removed all the way out. You > should replace the head bolts when removing the heads. They tend to > stretch. > > I removed the camshaft (not really a big issue anyway, just don't let > the shims fall out like I did) after I removed the heads. I didn't have > a cam pully holding tool (that I now see Amazon has for about 15 bucks) > and I could not get the pullys off. > > You don't have to remove the exhaust manfolds, but you will have to > remove all the pipes and the cross over. When reinstalling the heads, > make sure the crossover is correctly back on before you bolt everything > down. > > Put a new timing belt, all pullys, and water pump since you will be in > the area. > And get the service manual. Getting everything back on and lined up > correct is real easy when the book tells you what marks to line up. > > And mark all the stupid vacume lines. If you misplace just one line, > you will be spending hours trying to track down strange engine > problems. > > > McGyver wrote: >> Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a >> 3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions >> that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include >> >> a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into >> the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel >> >> rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as >> removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior >> to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of >> >> the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools >> I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to >> look for or look out for. >> Thanks, >> Chris >
From: McGyver on 29 Jul 2006 04:23 Could someone elaborate a bit on the valve shims and how one might keep them from falling out when the cam is removed. Would it be best to remove the head with the cam in place as Porch described and then remove the cam when the head is setting on a flat bench. I have been advised to have the heads resurfaced before re-assembling the engine, does anyone have a ballpark figure for what resurfacing the heads might cost? Thanks, Chris Tony wrote: > I hope that you did replace the head bolts, they are torque to yeild bolts > (tty) and can shear quite easily when resused and torqued down properly. > > -- > Tony > 95 Toyota Tacoma 2wd > K&N FIPK Generation 2 w/ Throttle Body Spacer > Fiberglass fenders w/ 31x1050 BFG A/T KO's > > > > "Porch" <eddies(a)softhome.net> wrote in message > news:1154130703.409234.115230(a)i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > Get an engine gasket kit from the dealer. It will have everything you > > need. Replace every gasket you can. Nothing is worse then going back in > > to replace a bad gasket you reused. > > > > If you use a small, 12 point socket, you can get the head bolts loose > > without removing the cam. I just did it 2 weeks ago. The problem is the > > cam blocks the head bolts from being removed all the way out. You > > should replace the head bolts when removing the heads. They tend to > > stretch. > > > > I removed the camshaft (not really a big issue anyway, just don't let > > the shims fall out like I did) after I removed the heads. I didn't have > > a cam pully holding tool (that I now see Amazon has for about 15 bucks) > > and I could not get the pullys off. > > > > You don't have to remove the exhaust manfolds, but you will have to > > remove all the pipes and the cross over. When reinstalling the heads, > > make sure the crossover is correctly back on before you bolt everything > > down. > > > > Put a new timing belt, all pullys, and water pump since you will be in > > the area. > > And get the service manual. Getting everything back on and lined up > > correct is real easy when the book tells you what marks to line up. > > > > And mark all the stupid vacume lines. If you misplace just one line, > > you will be spending hours trying to track down strange engine > > problems. > > > > > > McGyver wrote: > >> Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a > >> 3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions > >> that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include > >> > >> a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into > >> the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel > >> > >> rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as > >> removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior > >> to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of > >> > >> the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools > >> I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to > >> look for or look out for. > >> Thanks, > >> Chris > >
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