From: McGyver on
Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a
3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions
that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include

a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into
the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel

rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as
removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior
to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of

the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools
I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to
look for or look out for.
Thanks,
Chris

From: Porch on
Get an engine gasket kit from the dealer. It will have everything you
need. Replace every gasket you can. Nothing is worse then going back in
to replace a bad gasket you reused.

If you use a small, 12 point socket, you can get the head bolts loose
without removing the cam. I just did it 2 weeks ago. The problem is the
cam blocks the head bolts from being removed all the way out. You
should replace the head bolts when removing the heads. They tend to
stretch.

I removed the camshaft (not really a big issue anyway, just don't let
the shims fall out like I did) after I removed the heads. I didn't have
a cam pully holding tool (that I now see Amazon has for about 15 bucks)
and I could not get the pullys off.

You don't have to remove the exhaust manfolds, but you will have to
remove all the pipes and the cross over. When reinstalling the heads,
make sure the crossover is correctly back on before you bolt everything
down.

Put a new timing belt, all pullys, and water pump since you will be in
the area.
And get the service manual. Getting everything back on and lined up
correct is real easy when the book tells you what marks to line up.

And mark all the stupid vacume lines. If you misplace just one line,
you will be spending hours trying to track down strange engine
problems.


McGyver wrote:
> Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a
> 3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions
> that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include
>
> a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into
> the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel
>
> rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as
> removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior
> to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of
>
> the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools
> I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to
> look for or look out for.
> Thanks,
> Chris

From: Tony on
I hope that you did replace the head bolts, they are torque to yeild bolts
(tty) and can shear quite easily when resused and torqued down properly.

--
Tony
95 Toyota Tacoma 2wd
K&N FIPK Generation 2 w/ Throttle Body Spacer
Fiberglass fenders w/ 31x1050 BFG A/T KO's



"Porch" <eddies(a)softhome.net> wrote in message
news:1154130703.409234.115230(a)i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Get an engine gasket kit from the dealer. It will have everything you
> need. Replace every gasket you can. Nothing is worse then going back in
> to replace a bad gasket you reused.
>
> If you use a small, 12 point socket, you can get the head bolts loose
> without removing the cam. I just did it 2 weeks ago. The problem is the
> cam blocks the head bolts from being removed all the way out. You
> should replace the head bolts when removing the heads. They tend to
> stretch.
>
> I removed the camshaft (not really a big issue anyway, just don't let
> the shims fall out like I did) after I removed the heads. I didn't have
> a cam pully holding tool (that I now see Amazon has for about 15 bucks)
> and I could not get the pullys off.
>
> You don't have to remove the exhaust manfolds, but you will have to
> remove all the pipes and the cross over. When reinstalling the heads,
> make sure the crossover is correctly back on before you bolt everything
> down.
>
> Put a new timing belt, all pullys, and water pump since you will be in
> the area.
> And get the service manual. Getting everything back on and lined up
> correct is real easy when the book tells you what marks to line up.
>
> And mark all the stupid vacume lines. If you misplace just one line,
> you will be spending hours trying to track down strange engine
> problems.
>
>
> McGyver wrote:
>> Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a
>> 3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions
>> that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include
>>
>> a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into
>> the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel
>>
>> rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as
>> removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior
>> to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of
>>
>> the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools
>> I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to
>> look for or look out for.
>> Thanks,
>> Chris
>


From: McGyver on
Could someone elaborate a bit on the valve shims and how one might keep
them from falling out when the cam is removed. Would it be best to
remove the head with the cam in place as Porch described and then
remove the cam when the head is setting on a flat bench. I have been
advised to have the heads resurfaced before re-assembling the engine,
does anyone have a ballpark figure for what resurfacing the heads might
cost?
Thanks,
Chris
Tony wrote:
> I hope that you did replace the head bolts, they are torque to yeild bolts
> (tty) and can shear quite easily when resused and torqued down properly.
>
> --
> Tony
> 95 Toyota Tacoma 2wd
> K&N FIPK Generation 2 w/ Throttle Body Spacer
> Fiberglass fenders w/ 31x1050 BFG A/T KO's
>
>
>
> "Porch" <eddies(a)softhome.net> wrote in message
> news:1154130703.409234.115230(a)i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > Get an engine gasket kit from the dealer. It will have everything you
> > need. Replace every gasket you can. Nothing is worse then going back in
> > to replace a bad gasket you reused.
> >
> > If you use a small, 12 point socket, you can get the head bolts loose
> > without removing the cam. I just did it 2 weeks ago. The problem is the
> > cam blocks the head bolts from being removed all the way out. You
> > should replace the head bolts when removing the heads. They tend to
> > stretch.
> >
> > I removed the camshaft (not really a big issue anyway, just don't let
> > the shims fall out like I did) after I removed the heads. I didn't have
> > a cam pully holding tool (that I now see Amazon has for about 15 bucks)
> > and I could not get the pullys off.
> >
> > You don't have to remove the exhaust manfolds, but you will have to
> > remove all the pipes and the cross over. When reinstalling the heads,
> > make sure the crossover is correctly back on before you bolt everything
> > down.
> >
> > Put a new timing belt, all pullys, and water pump since you will be in
> > the area.
> > And get the service manual. Getting everything back on and lined up
> > correct is real easy when the book tells you what marks to line up.
> >
> > And mark all the stupid vacume lines. If you misplace just one line,
> > you will be spending hours trying to track down strange engine
> > problems.
> >
> >
> > McGyver wrote:
> >> Does anyone know if it is possible to pull and reinstall the head on a
> >> 3VZE without removing the camshaft. I have the a set of instructions
> >> that I had my local Toyota dealership print out for me and they include
> >>
> >> a few steps that I hope could be skipped although I haven't torn into
> >> the engine yet to find out. The instructions outline removing the fuel
> >>
> >> rails and injectors prior to removing the intake manifold as well as
> >> removing the camshaft including their oil seals and bearing caps prior
> >> to removing the head. Are the head bolts obstructed by the location of
> >>
> >> the camshaft? Any advice would be appreciated including special tools
> >> I may need, what seals to replace while I have it apart and things to
> >> look for or look out for.
> >> Thanks,
> >> Chris
> >