Toyota 3S-FE Engine Oil Change Guide With Pictures (Celica, Camry, Corona & Carina)
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From: Paul Michaels on 11 Apr 2010 23:32 I just changed the oil in the used car we bought during our trip to New Zealand. It's a 1994 Toyota Carina ED with the 3S-FE 2.0 liter inline 4 cylinder engine that is also in a few other older 1986-2000 Toyota vehicles such as the Celica, Camry, Corona and MR2. I took pictures of the process and wrote up a quick guide to help other owners. Here's the gallery - http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-3S-FE-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide I hope some of you find it to be useful. Cheers, Paul Michaels Ft. Lauderdale, FL
From: Ray O on 12 Apr 2010 01:01 "Paul Michaels" <paulmichaels79uf(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:905f4b08-5850-4758-b4fd-2f8cfafc70c4(a)30g2000yqi.googlegroups.com... >I just changed the oil in the used car we bought during our trip to > New Zealand. It's a 1994 Toyota Carina ED with the 3S-FE 2.0 liter > inline 4 cylinder engine that is also in a few other older 1986-2000 > Toyota vehicles such as the Celica, Camry, Corona and MR2. > > I took pictures of the process and wrote up a quick guide to help > other owners. > > Here's the gallery - > http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-3S-FE-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide > > I hope some of you find it to be useful. > > Cheers, > Paul Michaels > Ft. Lauderdale, FL Not bad, but there are several errors, one of which can be deadly. You describe the engine as "1998 ci," but "ci" or "CID" denotes cubic inches. The engine displacement is 1,998 cubic centimeters, or "CC." Check your owner's manual for the correct type and viscosity oil. I doubt that your owner's manual lists 15W-40 oil. A Crescent wrench or other adjustable wrench can damage the oil drain plug. The correct type of wrench to use is a 14 mm. open end, box end, of socket wrench. You did not list genuine Toyota oil filters in your list of filter applications. In the U.S., Toyota OEM filters are reasonably priced and the gaskets come pre-coated with a lubricant. When replacing the drain plug, check to make sure the drain plug gasket is in place and is not damaged. Before jacking up the vehicle, chock the opposite wheel with a piece of lumber, wheel chock, or brick because parking brakes may not hold. You mention that it is best to use jack stands if you have them. Never work under a car that is supported only by a jack, especially if it is the jack that came with the vehicle. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Retired VIP on 13 Apr 2010 09:04 On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 00:01:43 -0500, "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote: > >"Paul Michaels" <paulmichaels79uf(a)gmail.com> wrote in message >news:905f4b08-5850-4758-b4fd-2f8cfafc70c4(a)30g2000yqi.googlegroups.com... >> I took pictures of the process and wrote up a quick guide to help >> other owners. >> >> Here's the gallery - >> http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-3S-FE-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide >> >Not bad, but there are several errors, one of which can be deadly. > >You describe the engine as "1998 ci," but "ci" or "CID" denotes cubic >inches. The engine displacement is 1,998 cubic centimeters, or "CC." > >Check your owner's manual for the correct type and viscosity oil. I doubt >that your owner's manual lists 15W-40 oil. > >A Crescent wrench or other adjustable wrench can damage the oil drain plug. >The correct type of wrench to use is a 14 mm. open end, box end, of socket >wrench. > >You did not list genuine Toyota oil filters in your list of filter >applications. In the U.S., Toyota OEM filters are reasonably priced and the >gaskets come pre-coated with a lubricant. > >When replacing the drain plug, check to make sure the drain plug gasket is >in place and is not damaged. > >Before jacking up the vehicle, chock the opposite wheel with a piece of >lumber, wheel chock, or brick because parking brakes may not hold. > >You mention that it is best to use jack stands if you have them. Never work >under a car that is supported only by a jack, especially if it is the jack >that came with the vehicle. Picky, picky, picky. At least he tried Ray, that ought to count for at least a 'B' under today's standards.
From: Ray O on 13 Apr 2010 16:02 "Retired VIP" <jackj.extradots.180(a)windstream.net> wrote in message news:kpq8s51da4litria81m33btr79596gbafe(a)4ax.com... > On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 00:01:43 -0500, "Ray O" > <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote: > >> >>"Paul Michaels" <paulmichaels79uf(a)gmail.com> wrote in message >>news:905f4b08-5850-4758-b4fd-2f8cfafc70c4(a)30g2000yqi.googlegroups.com... > >>> I took pictures of the process and wrote up a quick guide to help >>> other owners. >>> >>> Here's the gallery - >>> http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-3S-FE-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide >>> >>Not bad, but there are several errors, one of which can be deadly. >> >>You describe the engine as "1998 ci," but "ci" or "CID" denotes cubic >>inches. The engine displacement is 1,998 cubic centimeters, or "CC." >> >>Check your owner's manual for the correct type and viscosity oil. I doubt >>that your owner's manual lists 15W-40 oil. >> >>A Crescent wrench or other adjustable wrench can damage the oil drain >>plug. >>The correct type of wrench to use is a 14 mm. open end, box end, of socket >>wrench. >> >>You did not list genuine Toyota oil filters in your list of filter >>applications. In the U.S., Toyota OEM filters are reasonably priced and >>the >>gaskets come pre-coated with a lubricant. >> >>When replacing the drain plug, check to make sure the drain plug gasket is >>in place and is not damaged. >> >>Before jacking up the vehicle, chock the opposite wheel with a piece of >>lumber, wheel chock, or brick because parking brakes may not hold. >> >>You mention that it is best to use jack stands if you have them. Never >>work >>under a car that is supported only by a jack, especially if it is the jack >>that came with the vehicle. > > Picky, picky, picky. At least he tried Ray, that ought to count for > at least a 'B' under today's standards. In my book the OP gets an "A" for good intent, "C" for technical content and completeness, and an "F" for safety because the impression I got from the post was that although it is best to use jack stands, it is Ok not to use them when working under a car. IMHO, it is never OK to get under a car that is supported solely by a jack, and it is dangerous to even hint that it is OK. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Paul Michaels on 23 Apr 2010 04:36
Thanks for the comments everyone. Ray O - I fixed all of the errors and included all of the suggestions that you mentioned. Thanks. :) I've got jack stands, a two ton floor jack, and all of the proper tools at home in Florida. We're 8,500 miles from home here visiting New Zealand and I didn't want to spend too much money just for this quick oil change. I didn't want to show it in the pictures, but I had many pieces of firewood stacked under the length of both sides of the car as a backup in case the jack failed and a few pieces behind the rear wheels. But you're absolutely right, I should have mentioned having more safety measures in case the OEM jack failed and I've corrected that. The guys at the auto parts store took a look at the engine and suggested that 15W-40 was the best weight considering the age/mileage and local climate. I figured who was I to argue with them. The car is running great since the oil change and should be sold in a few days anyway. I didn't know what mm the oil drain plug was and all the socket sets were hideously expensive, so I just went with the adjustable wrench knowing that it was a risk. Luckily it worked out fine. But you're right, I hated having to use it instead of a proper socket or crescent wrench. I mentioned OEM Toyota filters in the guide. To save time & money, I just bought the one the auto parts store had handy. At home I use Purolator (not the best, but decent) filters and Mobil 1 10W-30 in my '01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. But I didn't want to waste money on better stuff for this old car that is only ours for a few short months. Thanks again, Paul |