The Drive-a-Toyota Act
in [Toyota]
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From: Nza on 29 Jul 2007 20:28 On Jul 29, 6:01 pm, d...(a)12.usenet.us.com wrote: > In alt.autos.ford Nza <the...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Let's say someone buys the car used after 5 years and the battery > > immediately fails. Is the warranty going to cover the new owner? > > Picking at non-existent nits, making guesses? > Ford says: > "the warranty is fully transferable to future owners at no cost." > ok, sounds reasonable > > The last time I bought a battery for my 1979 Celica, it was a generic > > Advance Auto cheapie battery. > > I think the same way about the hybrid battery. I probably wouldn't buy a > dealer-supplied battery pack. I wouldn't buy cheap... Kragen pro-rated > batteries seem like more of a subscription to keep you tied to Kragen than > a good deal, but I see no need to buy a battery from a dealer. well if kragen is the "advance" brand... a two year battery has lasted 5 years.. so.. guess i'll stay tied to the product. > > I can't understand why someone would *want* a new car.. > > Well, there you go. 1979? No thanks. I didn't like them in 1979. honestly, the year is irrelevant. I didn't particularly care for the "decor" of the 79 celica when i first acquired the thing, but now it doesn't bother me.. It's merely a way to get from tab A to slot B. > > Someone pointed out to me that their 92 Escort gets 40+mpg "all day long". > (That phrase pops up a lot in unsubstantiated conversations.) Someone > else at the table noted that their 92 Escort had seen 40 once or twice, but > was typically 35-37 on the highway, and less than that around here. The > conversation drifted off before I could ask if the Escort had an automatic > or a five speed, A/C, maybe power steering. Does it have enough power to > get out of its own way going up hill? well, i'm not claiming any astronomical mpg.. 28-30 is what i get on I-95 over a 400 mile stretch of highway at 75 mph.. granted, it gets less when i have to get off for food or "rest" stops.. The car has a 2-bbl carburetor, manual steering, no a/c. Five speed manual. The trans is from an '83 celica which has a much higher overdrive than the original transmission. The car could not originally boast 28-30 mpg. As for getting out of its own way.. it will do that at low speeds as well as speeds that are fast enough to be unsafe in any car when driven by the incorrect driver. You can't carry 1000 pounds in the rear of it, but you can carry a good 500 without too much reduction in gas mileage or uphill ability. As I remember reading, the ww2 jeeps for the gummint needed to carry two dudes and 500 lbs of gear..
From: Jeff on 29 Jul 2007 20:40 Nza wrote: > On Jul 29, 6:01 pm, d...(a)12.usenet.us.com wrote: >> In alt.autos.ford Nza <the...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: >> >>> Let's say someone buys the car used after 5 years and the battery >>> immediately fails. Is the warranty going to cover the new owner? >> Picking at non-existent nits, making guesses? >> Ford says: >> "the warranty is fully transferable to future owners at no cost." >> > > ok, sounds reasonable But that is not true of all warranties. When you have your car fixed, often the warranty on the parts says, "... as long as you own your car." Warranty doesn't transfer to new owners. Hyundai dealers in Northeast PA and possibly other places are doubling the manufacturer's 10 yr/100,000 mi warranty. But the doubled warranty (actually an insurance policy that the dealer buys) only covers the original owner. Likewise, Chrysler has a lifetime powertrain warranty (after the 5/60 warranty expires) This warranty only covers the original owner. Jeff
From: Bill Putney on 30 Jul 2007 06:23 Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote: > ...The world is > full of ways to make you smile... But we can't discuss all of them here. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
From: Bill Putney on 30 Jul 2007 06:40 mrv(a)kluge.net wrote: > Now, the 12v lead-acid traditional accessory battery, however... > That's usually considered a maintenance item in any car (Toyotas > included), so you may need to replace that after 5 years. Because of > the special size/posts of the AGM 12v in my 2001 Prius, to get a new > 12v from the Toyota dealer last year, along with the setting kit and > labor costs, it sadly was in the $300 range. I was too lazy to go for > a cheaper route: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-prius/links/Replacement_12V_Clas_001072738257/ So - is that the way everything is on the Prius - things they could just as easily have made standard and relatively inexpensive to replace they made odd to force the owner to buy a part that's 5 times what it should cost or have to do some ridiculous work-around to use standard parts that do the job just as well? Not a good philosophy, but if one is determined to "save the earth", I guess it's the kind of thing you have to allow yourself to get suckered into. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
From: Mike Hunter on 30 Jul 2007 13:02
If one wants to calculate the TRUE annual cost of ownership, one must take into consideration the total cost of acquiring a vehicle, insuring, maintaining, repairing and operating that vehicle and at some point the replacement cost for another new vehicle. Assume two buyers buy exactly the same $25,000 car. One buyer is the average American new car buyer who replaces their car in three to four years. The other buys a new car every ten years. The average person in the US drives 15,000 miles per year. For a 3, 4, and ten year old cars that will 45K, 60K and 150K miles. The average deprecation in 3 years is 20%, in four 30%, in ten year 95% For the purpose of calculation, assume the cars have four year 60K warranties and the owners are covered by equal insurance policies, at the same cost, both cars use the same amount of fuel, each vehicle needs an annual state inspection at $75, every owner performs all of the required normal preventive 5K maintenance, that averages $50, as well as the required 15K maintenance that averages $400, each has a major repair $1,500 and a new vehicle goes up $1,000 a year. You can set you own average shop rate and part prices to make the comparison. Assume warranty covered repairs, the 45K, 60K and 150 maintenance need not be added in, since the owners will be replacing the vehicle(s) In ten years, after they both have purchased another new car and the cycle begins again, who will have spent the most money per year? Are you surprised ? Mike "Nza" <thenza(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1185736742.131983.194540(a)q75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com... > On Jul 3, 3:54 pm, "Cathy F." <clfrc...(a)adelphia.net> wrote: >> >> I just checked the Toyota's site: the hybrid battery's warranty is for 8 >> years/100K miles. I tend to keep my cars a while, & the longest I've >> ever >> kept one has been 8 years, the shortest was 4, and usually it's 6 years. >> I >> personally wouldn't even begin to factor in the possible eventual cost of >> a >> new battery when deciding on purchasing a hybrid. >> >> Cathy >> > > Let's say someone buys the car used after 5 years and the battery > immediately fails. Is the warranty going to cover the new owner? > > The last time I bought a battery for my 1979 Celica, it was a generic > Advance Auto cheapie battery. It was a 24 month battery, but it is > still good. It cost about $60. The toyota cost me $400 from Ebay, > $140 in diesel fuel to drive 1000 miles round trip to get it (it was > in 2000), and $50 for an "in-town" trailer rental.. > > Once I got the car, I found that the motor needed freshening. I put ~ > $800 into the motor and parts for it. I have had to spend $450 on six > tires so far. Replaced the brake master cylinder ($40 ebay), the > clutch master ($25 ebay), the transmission (brother ran it out of > fluid) with one from another parts car (labor only). Replaced the > pitman arm ($30 ebay) and the idler arm ($25 ebay). > > Total that and it's $2020. I have no idea what i've spent on gas > over the last 45,000 miles I've put on it in the last 5 years (didn't > drive it for two when i first had it), but around town it gets around > 18 - 20 mpg and on the road it gets 28 - 30 mpg at 75 - 80 mph all day > long. > > I can't understand why someone would *want* a new car.. > Let's just say all those miles were in town, getting 20 mpg, with gas > at $3,00 per gallon. (although i know that more than half of the miles > were highway and significantly LESS than $3,00 a gallon) > 45,000 / 20 = 2250 gallons. > 2250 * 3 = $6750 > > $6750 + $2020 = $8770 > > 45,000 miles / $8770 = ~ 5.13 cents per mile. > > Now *THAT* is what I call an economy car. I challenge *anyone* with a > new car to come up with an operating cost that low. > > Stick that in your tailpipe and smoke it. > |