Synthetic Oil & Toyota Warranty?? [Toyota]

Prev: stellensuche deutschland stellenangebot dresden praktikum stellenangebote arbeitsstellen deutschland Berufsfeuerwehrfrau Berufsfeuerwehrmann Wirtschaftsingenieur Wirtschaftsingenieurin stellenangebote weltweit
Next: Some details of the 2AZ-FE engine

From: Retired VIP on 18 Jul 2008 13:41

On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 21:58:14 -0400, "Mark A" <nobody(a)nowhere.com>
wrote:

>"Retired VIP" <jackj.extradots.180(a)windstream.net> wrote in message
>news:hu4v74t2nvqe3gg62c8fe9cvbfb9c1lb09(a)4ax.com...
>> Ed, these guys aren't going to change their minds. I said basically
>> the same thing you said just before he posted this clap-trap.
>>
>> A break-in period may be needed on an engine that was rebuilt at home
>> with new bearings and races. But only if second-rate parts without
>> the proper tolerances are used or if you're sloppy about how you put
>> the engine together. But new engines don't need a break-in period.
>> Keep your speed down below 50 mph for the first 50 or 60 miles to
>> allow the rings to settle into the piston groves and then drive it
>> like you will for the rest of it's life.
>>
>> Jack
>
>First you say that no break-in period is needed, and then you go on to
>describe the break-in period that should be followed for a new car.
>
>"Keep your speed down below 50 mph for the first 50 or 60 miles to allow the
>rings to settle into the piston groves..."

Allowing the rings to settle into the piston's groves isn't the same
as a break-in. A break-in period was used to wear down the high spots
on bearing races and cylinder walls. It used to be that the machining
done to build a new engine wasn't of very high quality and the parts
needed time to wear into it's mating surface.
>
>Most of the articles I have read suggest that a problem with improper ring
>seating is "more likely" to occur with immediately switching to a full
>synthetic, not that it will definitely cause a problem in every case. The
>experts suggest the breaking period should be anywhere form a few hundred
>miles to the first scheduled oil change, to 10K miles, depending on who you
>ask.

Do these 'experts' build engines or just write articles in magazines?
>
>Most experts have also said that automakers who use synthetic as factory
>fill have taken special steps in the machining process to greatly reduce the
>problem of improper piston/ring seating. That does not mean that all
>automakers or all vehicle are alike in this regard, especially if they do
>not use synthetic as factory fill. There is no denying that when Chevy first
>specified factory fill of synthetic on the Corvette, they had a much higher
>incidence of problems with improper ring seating. Obviously, they have done
>something to alleviate that problem.

I can't speak about any problems GM may have had with the Corvette as
I don't know anything about any problems they may have had. But the
truth is that, under normal conditions, there is no difference between
synthetic oil and conventional oil when comparing their lubrication
characteristics. There is a BIG difference between them under
abnormal conditions of temperature and high stress (extended full
throttle, full load).
>
>Given my own experience of changing to Mobil 1 full synthetic on a 1998
>Camry V6 after the first oil change (5K miles), and having the engine
>perform flawlessly thereafter for the last 10 years, I would inclined to
>repeat that procedure again with a new car. It won't hurt to wait 5K miles
>before switching to synthetic (unless maybe you live where it is below
>zero), so why even get so worked up about it.
>
>Often times the advise about when to switch to a full synthetic comes from
>people who think synthetic is a waste of money, and who presumably do not
>use it themselves. So consider the source of the advice.
>

Unlike you, I have never used Mobil 1 or any other synthetic oil in
any of my cars. I do not trade cars until the cost of operation
becomes too high. I really don't care if I'm driving the latest and
greatest or not, I just want dependable transportation that doesn't
cost too much. That said, I keep all of my cars for at least 10 years
and most of them have run over 100,000 miles of mainly city/town
driving with few high speed extended trips.

With one exception, the condition of the engine is never the reason
why I trade cars. Most of them started needing too much maintenance
to either the body or the running gear. I can't see spending $2500.00
to rebuild a transmission in a car that is only worth $3000.00. The
one exception was a 1982 Dodge with a 2.5 L engine that broke it's cam
and beat the head to bits.

I'm glad you are getting good service out of your cars. But don't
think it's because you use synthetic oil. You would get the same
service out of your cars if you used name brand conventional oils.

Jack

From: SMS on 18 Jul 2008 14:24

Mark A wrote:

> I can tell you from my own experience that I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic
> on my 1998 Camry V6 at 5K miles and now I have a problem. The engine is so
> smooth after more than 10 years that I can't find any justification to buy a
> new car.

I have the same problem with my 1996 Camry. I've been using 5W-30
non-synthetic for 12 years, and the engine is so smooth that I can't
find any justification to buy a new car.

Similarly, I've been drinking fresh ground arabica coffee for 15 years,
after switching from pre-ground robusta and my body is still operating
at peak efficiency. It must be the arabica beans.

From: SMS on 18 Jul 2008 14:25

Just Me wrote:
> A guy I work with just bought an '08 Toyota Tacoma, extended cab, 4x4,
> auto, etc. He said that the "dealership" told him that if he switches
> to Mobil 1 or any synthetic oil, that it will void his warranty. Sounds
> like total BS to me but thought I would toss this out to the experts
> before I begin surfing for other answers. Thanks and I appreciate your
> feedback.

Just make sure that it's an API certified synthetic. A few synthetics
are unable to pass API certification, notably many of the Amsoil
products. It's not that there's anything wrong with their lubrication
properties, it's just that the high ZDDP level can affect the emissions
system.

From: SMS on 18 Jul 2008 14:27

Retired VIP wrote:

> Synthetic oil won't stop engine wear. Under normal conditions,
> synthetic oil won't even reduce wear by very much. What it will do is
> remain liquid at colder temperature than conventional oils. It also
> won't boil off as easily as conventional oils. So you don't have to
> wait for your engine to wear before you use synthetic oils. There's
> no great advantage to using them but go ahead and use them if you like
> to spend money.

The advantage is solely in colder climates, and for high performance
engines. But for normal engines in temperate climates, there's no
advantage, according to all the experts.

From: SMS on 18 Jul 2008 14:29

Mark A wrote:
>> <nm5k(a)wt.net> wrote in message
>> news:4bb27c86-077d-4eae-8d02-ecdd0bf197ed(a)d77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
>> But I don't agree with the ones that use synth oil as an excuse
>> to extend oil change skeds..
>> I think that's just plain dumb, even if you used liquid gold as oil
>> and the best filter money can buy.
>
> OTOH, there are people who change their conventional oil every 3,000 miles.

Few people are still clueless enough to do 3000 mile oil changes (unless
they own a very old vehicle).