From: Ray O on 14 Mar 2010 22:08 "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com... > Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301 > Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected > > Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME > involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and > shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for > an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did > not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating > to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then > took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away. > > I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a > Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be > coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change. > Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging > by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue > too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I > stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have > noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's > random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around > was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88: > > "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and > quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the > transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the > overdrive switch on." > > Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work. > From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature > looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus > very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven > with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla > ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55 > MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given > the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little > while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony > (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but > personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a > lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On > another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are > pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for > pending codes. > > Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame? > I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my > mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old > car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the > oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using > everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant? > > How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I > can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect > the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car, > then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm > inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who > think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively > and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota > bias and that's alright :] ). > > Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers. > I am pretty sure that your Corolla uses a distributor-less ignition system with 2 ignition coils and a waste-spark setup. Basically, this means is that instead of coil and a distributor to send spark to each cylinder, 2 cylinders share a coil. I'd bet that in your engine, cylinders 1 (far left when standing in front of the car and looking the engine compartment) and 4 (far right) share a coil and are connected with an ignition wire, and cylinders 2 & 3 share a coil. With a trouble code that points to misfire in 1 & 4, I'd suspect the coil for those cylinders. An aftermarket coil probably costs $100, while a genuine Toyota coil is probably double that. Either way, it is far less than the cost to replace the car. I would change all 4 spark plugs with Denso plugs and replace the coil. You can look up your car (1 ZZ-FE engine) at autozone.com for instructions on how to change the plugs and coil. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Ray O on 14 Mar 2010 22:10 "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org... > > "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message > news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com... >> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301 >> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected >> >> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME >> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and >> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for >> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did >> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating >> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then >> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away. >> >> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a >> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be >> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change. >> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging >> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue >> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I >> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have >> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's >> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around >> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88: >> >> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and >> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the >> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the >> overdrive switch on." >> >> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work. >> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature >> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus >> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven >> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla >> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55 >> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given >> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little >> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony >> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but >> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a >> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On >> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are >> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for >> pending codes. >> >> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame? >> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my >> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old >> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the >> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using >> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant? >> >> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I >> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect >> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car, >> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm >> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who >> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively >> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota >> bias and that's alright :] ). >> >> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers. >> >> >> > > > You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark plugs, > plug wires, coil, those sorts of things. > > The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were misfiring > on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the misfire and the > oil change would be if the oil change technician damaged the plug wires, > but this is not likely because I don't think he sells plugs and wires so > he would not have a profit motive to do anything to your car. I'm inclined > to think you just have worn plugs, broken or porrly connected wires, or a > combination of the two. > > Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to > $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised at > a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50, then the > pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a distributor > cap and a rotor. > > Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you know > how to put spark plugs in. > > IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF > Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will break > loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go. The > "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it, the > "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and Back do > not refer the grille and the firewall. > > The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4. > > Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at one > end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the wire > that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order should be > 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you MUST put the > new wires into the same places as the old wires. > The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to sketch, no cap or rotor to replace. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Jeff Strickland on 15 Mar 2010 11:50 "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message news:hnk4vb$alo$2(a)news.eternal-september.org... > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org... >> >> "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message >> news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com... >>> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301 >>> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected >>> >>> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME >>> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and >>> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for >>> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did >>> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating >>> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then >>> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away. >>> >>> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a >>> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be >>> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change. >>> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging >>> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue >>> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I >>> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have >>> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's >>> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around >>> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88: >>> >>> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and >>> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the >>> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the >>> overdrive switch on." >>> >>> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work. >>> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature >>> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus >>> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven >>> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla >>> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55 >>> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given >>> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little >>> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony >>> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but >>> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a >>> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On >>> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are >>> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for >>> pending codes. >>> >>> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame? >>> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my >>> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old >>> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the >>> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using >>> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant? >>> >>> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I >>> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect >>> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car, >>> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm >>> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who >>> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively >>> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota >>> bias and that's alright :] ). >>> >>> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark plugs, >> plug wires, coil, those sorts of things. >> >> The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were >> misfiring on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the >> misfire and the oil change would be if the oil change technician damaged >> the plug wires, but this is not likely because I don't think he sells >> plugs and wires so he would not have a profit motive to do anything to >> your car. I'm inclined to think you just have worn plugs, broken or >> porrly connected wires, or a combination of the two. >> >> Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to >> $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised >> at a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50, then >> the pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a >> distributor cap and a rotor. >> >> Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you know >> how to put spark plugs in. >> >> IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF >> Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will >> break loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go. >> The "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it, >> the "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and >> Back do not refer the grille and the firewall. >> >> The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4. >> >> Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at one >> end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the wire >> that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order should >> be 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you MUST put >> the new wires into the same places as the old wires. >> > > The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to > sketch, no cap or rotor to replace. > -- > My bad. Sorry. This makes the problem into a potential for a crank sensor, cam sensor, that sort of thing.
From: Ray O on 15 Mar 2010 19:29 "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:hnlkvj$d7q$1(a)news.eternal-september.org... > > "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message > news:hnk4vb$alo$2(a)news.eternal-september.org... >> >> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message >> news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org... >>> >>> "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message >>> news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com... >>>> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301 >>>> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected >>>> >>>> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME >>>> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and >>>> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for >>>> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did >>>> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating >>>> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then >>>> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away. >>>> >>>> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a >>>> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be >>>> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change. >>>> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging >>>> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue >>>> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I >>>> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have >>>> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's >>>> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around >>>> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88: >>>> >>>> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and >>>> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the >>>> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the >>>> overdrive switch on." >>>> >>>> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work. >>>> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature >>>> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus >>>> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven >>>> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla >>>> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55 >>>> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given >>>> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little >>>> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony >>>> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but >>>> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a >>>> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On >>>> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are >>>> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for >>>> pending codes. >>>> >>>> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame? >>>> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my >>>> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old >>>> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the >>>> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using >>>> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant? >>>> >>>> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I >>>> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect >>>> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car, >>>> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm >>>> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who >>>> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively >>>> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota >>>> bias and that's alright :] ). >>>> >>>> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark >>> plugs, plug wires, coil, those sorts of things. >>> >>> The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were >>> misfiring on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the >>> misfire and the oil change would be if the oil change technician damaged >>> the plug wires, but this is not likely because I don't think he sells >>> plugs and wires so he would not have a profit motive to do anything to >>> your car. I'm inclined to think you just have worn plugs, broken or >>> porrly connected wires, or a combination of the two. >>> >>> Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to >>> $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised >>> at a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50, >>> then the pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a >>> distributor cap and a rotor. >>> >>> Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you >>> know how to put spark plugs in. >>> >>> IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF >>> Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will >>> break loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go. >>> The "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it, >>> the "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and >>> Back do not refer the grille and the firewall. >>> >>> The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4. >>> >>> Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at >>> one end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the >>> wire that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order >>> should be 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you >>> MUST put the new wires into the same places as the old wires. >>> >> >> The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to >> sketch, no cap or rotor to replace. >> -- >> > > > My bad. Sorry. This makes the problem into a potential for a crank sensor, > cam sensor, that sort of thing. > Since 1 & 4 share a coil, I'd check the coil. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Jeff Strickland on 16 Mar 2010 10:50 "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message news:hnmg37$hst$3(a)news.eternal-september.org... > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:hnlkvj$d7q$1(a)news.eternal-september.org... >> >> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message >> news:hnk4vb$alo$2(a)news.eternal-september.org... >>> >>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message >>> news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org... >>>> >>>> "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message >>>> news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com... >>>>> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301 >>>>> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected >>>>> >>>>> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME >>>>> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and >>>>> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for >>>>> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did >>>>> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating >>>>> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then >>>>> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away. >>>>> >>>>> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a >>>>> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be >>>>> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change. >>>>> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging >>>>> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue >>>>> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I >>>>> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have >>>>> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's >>>>> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around >>>>> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88: >>>>> >>>>> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and >>>>> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the >>>>> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the >>>>> overdrive switch on." >>>>> >>>>> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work. >>>>> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature >>>>> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus >>>>> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven >>>>> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla >>>>> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55 >>>>> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given >>>>> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little >>>>> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony >>>>> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but >>>>> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a >>>>> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On >>>>> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are >>>>> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for >>>>> pending codes. >>>>> >>>>> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame? >>>>> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my >>>>> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old >>>>> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the >>>>> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using >>>>> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant? >>>>> >>>>> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I >>>>> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect >>>>> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car, >>>>> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm >>>>> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who >>>>> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively >>>>> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota >>>>> bias and that's alright :] ). >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark >>>> plugs, plug wires, coil, those sorts of things. >>>> >>>> The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were >>>> misfiring on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the >>>> misfire and the oil change would be if the oil change technician >>>> damaged the plug wires, but this is not likely because I don't think he >>>> sells plugs and wires so he would not have a profit motive to do >>>> anything to your car. I'm inclined to think you just have worn plugs, >>>> broken or porrly connected wires, or a combination of the two. >>>> >>>> Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to >>>> $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised >>>> at a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50, >>>> then the pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a >>>> distributor cap and a rotor. >>>> >>>> Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you >>>> know how to put spark plugs in. >>>> >>>> IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF >>>> Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will >>>> break loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go. >>>> The "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it, >>>> the "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and >>>> Back do not refer the grille and the firewall. >>>> >>>> The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4. >>>> >>>> Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at >>>> one end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the >>>> wire that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order >>>> should be 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you >>>> MUST put the new wires into the same places as the old wires. >>>> >>> >>> The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to >>> sketch, no cap or rotor to replace. >>> -- >>> >> >> >> My bad. Sorry. This makes the problem into a potential for a crank >> sensor, cam sensor, that sort of thing. >> > > Since 1 & 4 share a coil, I'd check the coil. > -- I'd go with as well.
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