From: Ray O on

"C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301
> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
>
> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME
> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and
> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for
> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did
> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating
> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then
> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away.
>
> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a
> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be
> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change.
> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging
> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue
> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I
> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have
> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's
> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around
> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88:
>
> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and
> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the
> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the
> overdrive switch on."
>
> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work.
> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature
> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus
> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven
> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla
> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55
> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given
> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little
> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony
> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but
> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a
> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On
> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are
> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for
> pending codes.
>
> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame?
> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my
> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old
> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the
> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using
> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant?
>
> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I
> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect
> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car,
> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm
> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who
> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively
> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota
> bias and that's alright :] ).
>
> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers.
>

I am pretty sure that your Corolla uses a distributor-less ignition system
with 2 ignition coils and a waste-spark setup. Basically, this means is
that instead of coil and a distributor to send spark to each cylinder, 2
cylinders share a coil. I'd bet that in your engine, cylinders 1 (far left
when standing in front of the car and looking the engine compartment) and 4
(far right) share a coil and are connected with an ignition wire, and
cylinders 2 & 3 share a coil.

With a trouble code that points to misfire in 1 & 4, I'd suspect the coil
for those cylinders.

An aftermarket coil probably costs $100, while a genuine Toyota coil is
probably double that. Either way, it is far less than the cost to replace
the car.

I would change all 4 spark plugs with Denso plugs and replace the coil.

You can look up your car (1 ZZ-FE engine) at autozone.com for instructions
on how to change the plugs and coil.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)



From: Ray O on

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301
>> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
>>
>> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME
>> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and
>> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for
>> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did
>> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating
>> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then
>> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away.
>>
>> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a
>> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be
>> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change.
>> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging
>> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue
>> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I
>> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have
>> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's
>> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around
>> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88:
>>
>> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and
>> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the
>> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the
>> overdrive switch on."
>>
>> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work.
>> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature
>> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus
>> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven
>> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla
>> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55
>> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given
>> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little
>> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony
>> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but
>> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a
>> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On
>> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are
>> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for
>> pending codes.
>>
>> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame?
>> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my
>> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old
>> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the
>> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using
>> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant?
>>
>> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I
>> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect
>> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car,
>> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm
>> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who
>> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively
>> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota
>> bias and that's alright :] ).
>>
>> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark plugs,
> plug wires, coil, those sorts of things.
>
> The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were misfiring
> on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the misfire and the
> oil change would be if the oil change technician damaged the plug wires,
> but this is not likely because I don't think he sells plugs and wires so
> he would not have a profit motive to do anything to your car. I'm inclined
> to think you just have worn plugs, broken or porrly connected wires, or a
> combination of the two.
>
> Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to
> $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised at
> a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50, then the
> pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a distributor
> cap and a rotor.
>
> Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you know
> how to put spark plugs in.
>
> IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF
> Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will break
> loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go. The
> "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it, the
> "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and Back do
> not refer the grille and the firewall.
>
> The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4.
>
> Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at one
> end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the wire
> that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order should be
> 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you MUST put the
> new wires into the same places as the old wires.
>

The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to
sketch, no cap or rotor to replace.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


From: Jeff Strickland on

"Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
news:hnk4vb$alo$2(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>>> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301
>>> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
>>>
>>> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME
>>> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and
>>> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for
>>> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did
>>> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating
>>> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then
>>> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away.
>>>
>>> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a
>>> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be
>>> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change.
>>> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging
>>> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue
>>> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I
>>> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have
>>> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's
>>> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around
>>> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88:
>>>
>>> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and
>>> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the
>>> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the
>>> overdrive switch on."
>>>
>>> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work.
>>> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature
>>> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus
>>> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven
>>> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla
>>> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55
>>> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given
>>> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little
>>> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony
>>> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but
>>> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a
>>> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On
>>> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are
>>> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for
>>> pending codes.
>>>
>>> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame?
>>> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my
>>> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old
>>> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the
>>> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using
>>> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant?
>>>
>>> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I
>>> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect
>>> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car,
>>> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm
>>> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who
>>> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively
>>> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota
>>> bias and that's alright :] ).
>>>
>>> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark plugs,
>> plug wires, coil, those sorts of things.
>>
>> The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were
>> misfiring on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the
>> misfire and the oil change would be if the oil change technician damaged
>> the plug wires, but this is not likely because I don't think he sells
>> plugs and wires so he would not have a profit motive to do anything to
>> your car. I'm inclined to think you just have worn plugs, broken or
>> porrly connected wires, or a combination of the two.
>>
>> Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to
>> $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised
>> at a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50, then
>> the pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a
>> distributor cap and a rotor.
>>
>> Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you know
>> how to put spark plugs in.
>>
>> IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF
>> Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will
>> break loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go.
>> The "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it,
>> the "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and
>> Back do not refer the grille and the firewall.
>>
>> The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4.
>>
>> Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at one
>> end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the wire
>> that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order should
>> be 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you MUST put
>> the new wires into the same places as the old wires.
>>
>
> The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to
> sketch, no cap or rotor to replace.
> --
>


My bad. Sorry. This makes the problem into a potential for a crank sensor,
cam sensor, that sort of thing.





From: Ray O on

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hnlkvj$d7q$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
> news:hnk4vb$alo$2(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>>
>>> "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>>>> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301
>>>> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
>>>>
>>>> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME
>>>> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and
>>>> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for
>>>> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did
>>>> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating
>>>> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then
>>>> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away.
>>>>
>>>> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a
>>>> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be
>>>> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change.
>>>> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging
>>>> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue
>>>> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I
>>>> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have
>>>> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's
>>>> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around
>>>> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88:
>>>>
>>>> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and
>>>> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the
>>>> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the
>>>> overdrive switch on."
>>>>
>>>> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work.
>>>> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature
>>>> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus
>>>> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven
>>>> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla
>>>> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55
>>>> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given
>>>> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little
>>>> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony
>>>> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but
>>>> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a
>>>> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On
>>>> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are
>>>> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for
>>>> pending codes.
>>>>
>>>> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame?
>>>> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my
>>>> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old
>>>> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the
>>>> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using
>>>> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant?
>>>>
>>>> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I
>>>> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect
>>>> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car,
>>>> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm
>>>> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who
>>>> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively
>>>> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota
>>>> bias and that's alright :] ).
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark
>>> plugs, plug wires, coil, those sorts of things.
>>>
>>> The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were
>>> misfiring on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the
>>> misfire and the oil change would be if the oil change technician damaged
>>> the plug wires, but this is not likely because I don't think he sells
>>> plugs and wires so he would not have a profit motive to do anything to
>>> your car. I'm inclined to think you just have worn plugs, broken or
>>> porrly connected wires, or a combination of the two.
>>>
>>> Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to
>>> $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised
>>> at a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50,
>>> then the pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a
>>> distributor cap and a rotor.
>>>
>>> Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you
>>> know how to put spark plugs in.
>>>
>>> IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF
>>> Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will
>>> break loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go.
>>> The "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it,
>>> the "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and
>>> Back do not refer the grille and the firewall.
>>>
>>> The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4.
>>>
>>> Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at
>>> one end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the
>>> wire that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order
>>> should be 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you
>>> MUST put the new wires into the same places as the old wires.
>>>
>>
>> The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to
>> sketch, no cap or rotor to replace.
>> --
>>
>
>
> My bad. Sorry. This makes the problem into a potential for a crank sensor,
> cam sensor, that sort of thing.
>

Since 1 & 4 share a coil, I'd check the coil.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


From: Jeff Strickland on

"Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
news:hnmg37$hst$3(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:hnlkvj$d7q$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
>> news:hnk4vb$alo$2(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>>
>>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:hnjkol$2uu$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>>>
>>>> "C Yohman" <chance.yohman(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:878458d1-6479-4e43-93f3-a912b13b2b69(a)g19g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>>>>> Problem: PO300 Pd: Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected, PO301
>>>>> Pd: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, PO304 Pd Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
>>>>>
>>>>> Background: On a 60 mile drive from Springvale, ME to Brunswick, ME
>>>>> involving state routes, highway, and city roads my car shuddered and
>>>>> shook intermittently. There were two instances where it did this for
>>>>> an extended period of time and the check engine light flashed, but did
>>>>> not stay on. Once was going up a hill and the other was accelerating
>>>>> to 65 MPH on the highway. Both times I tried to accelerate, but then
>>>>> took my foot off the gas to decelerate and the issue went away.
>>>>>
>>>>> I had the oil changed 2.5 weeks ago. The oil was changed on a
>>>>> Wednesday and I did notice a transient grinding sound (seemed to be
>>>>> coming from underneath the car) the Sunday preceding the oil change.
>>>>> Nothing since the incident. The oil looks plentiful and fine judging
>>>>> by the dipstick. It seems yearly I have a left front caliper issue
>>>>> too, but I don't suspect that because I don't smell anything when I
>>>>> stick my nose next to the wheel and it doesn't feel warm. I have
>>>>> noticed an infrequent burning smell, which could be related, but it's
>>>>> random and very infrequent. One idea my father and I bantered around
>>>>> was my use of overdrive. According to the Owner's Manual on page 88:
>>>>>
>>>>> "Always turn the overdrive switch on for better fuel economy and
>>>>> quieter driving. If the engine coolant temperature is low, the
>>>>> transmission will not shift into overdrive gear even with the
>>>>> overdrive switch on."
>>>>>
>>>>> Now it seems if the temperature is low, then overdrive won't work.
>>>>> From the description, it won't manifest itself. The engine temperature
>>>>> looks normal (a little below the midpoint). It's been cool (versus
>>>>> very cold) this winter in Maine and very rainy. I've always driven
>>>>> with the overdrive on for almost 5 years. On my Dad's old Corolla
>>>>> ('92?), he told me to only engage the overdrive when going over 45-55
>>>>> MPH. Should I be doing this with my Corolla? I don't think so given
>>>>> the above. The car has shaken and shuddered very minorly for a little
>>>>> while now (1-2 months), but it has crescendoed to a dissonant symphony
>>>>> (read: it's frakking annoying!). These codes are pending, but
>>>>> personally I don't want to wait and see the final results as I drive a
>>>>> lot of rough, mountain roads. Nothing that requires high clearance. On
>>>>> another note, does the light not stay solid because the codes are
>>>>> pending? It seems I should be checking the OBCD II port weekly for
>>>>> pending codes.
>>>>>
>>>>> Conclusions: What could be causing this? Is it common? Am I to blame?
>>>>> I can accept that. Also, I need to know, so I can learn from my
>>>>> mistakes. Or, is it the trials and tribulations of a 12-13 year old
>>>>> car? My parents never owned a car more than 10 years. Could it be the
>>>>> oil? The gasoline I use? I fill up at random locations using
>>>>> everything from Shell to Exxon-Mobil to Citgo (today). Engine coolant?
>>>>>
>>>>> How much will it cost to fix? How expensive could it get? I think I
>>>>> can trade it in for $1,175. I think a cylinder misfire would effect
>>>>> the value of the car. If the repair goes over the value of my car,
>>>>> then I rather buy a new vehicle to me (read probably used). I'm
>>>>> inclined to purchase a truck. I'm willing to listen to people who
>>>>> think this is something that can be repaired relatively inexpensively
>>>>> and I'm also receptive to suggestions for a truck (I assume a Toyota
>>>>> bias and that's alright :] ).
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for reading and any suggestions. Cheers.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You have a few unrelated issues. The Subject Line deals with spark
>>>> plugs, plug wires, coil, those sorts of things.
>>>>
>>>> The shaking, as you call it, would be expected if two plugs were
>>>> misfiring on a 4-cylinder motor. The only relationship between the
>>>> misfire and the oil change would be if the oil change technician
>>>> damaged the plug wires, but this is not likely because I don't think he
>>>> sells plugs and wires so he would not have a profit motive to do
>>>> anything to your car. I'm inclined to think you just have worn plugs,
>>>> broken or porrly connected wires, or a combination of the two.
>>>>
>>>> Plugs cost in the neighborhood of $3.00 each, the wires should run to
>>>> $25-ish. I haven't bought wires in a while, but I wouldn't be surprised
>>>> at a price range like that, and if the price turns out to be $12.50,
>>>> then the pleasant surprise would be, well, pleasant. Then, you have a
>>>> distributor cap and a rotor.
>>>>
>>>> Seems to me you could clean this up for less than fifty bucks if you
>>>> know how to put spark plugs in.
>>>>
>>>> IF YOU TRY THIS YOURSELF
>>>> Be sure to put the plug wires in the right places else all Hell will
>>>> break loose. I suggest drawing a diagram that shows where the wires go.
>>>> The "front" of the engine is the end with the belts and pulleys on it,
>>>> the "back" of the engine has the transmission bolted to it. Front and
>>>> Back do not refer the grille and the firewall.
>>>>
>>>> The front of the engine has Cylinder 1, the back has Cylinder 4.
>>>>
>>>> Sketch the distributor -- the plug wires connect to the spark plug at
>>>> one end and the distributor at the other -- noting the location of the
>>>> wire that connects to Cylinder 1. Just my guess, but the firing order
>>>> should be 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, but could be 1 - 4 - 2- 3. Whatever it is, you
>>>> MUST put the new wires into the same places as the old wires.
>>>>
>>>
>>> The OP's car has a distributor-less ignition system. No distributor to
>>> sketch, no cap or rotor to replace.
>>> --
>>>
>>
>>
>> My bad. Sorry. This makes the problem into a potential for a crank
>> sensor, cam sensor, that sort of thing.
>>
>
> Since 1 & 4 share a coil, I'd check the coil.
> --


I'd go with as well.