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From: Mike Romain on 12 Oct 2007 13:44 That means they are setting you up for the latest scam. They expect you to come back complaining of pulsing brakes and their diagnoses will be warped rotors so you now need a full brake job... I went to a new shop with a fresh young mechanic owing it yesterday with a friend to pick up his car after a brake job and the mechanic was finishing off the wheel lug nuts 'with' a torque wrench as we drove up. I was impressed. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Built_Well wrote: > Another thing that disappointed me about my Toyota tech's > service was the way he tightened the wheel's lug nuts. > > Instead of following the manual's procedure of gradually > tightening the set of 5 nuts on a wheel, he completely > tightened one, then went onto the next. I would have > appreciated it if he would have simply tightened each > nut half-way before returning to it. That's not too much extra work. > > Well, at least he did follow a star pattern. But, as > I said the other day, the worst part was his not using > a torque wrench to tighten the nuts, so he couldn't have > precisely applied 76 foot-pounds of torque per lug nut, as the manual > calls for. > > That's not exactly premiere Toyota service. > > I can only hope no rotors or drums are being warped. > (The '06 Camry LE uses drum brakes in the rear and > disks in front; the '07 uses disk brakes all around). > > > The tech isn't new. He told me he's been working on > Toyotas for years. And he must be 40- or 50- > something. So it's not like I got a newcomer to > work on my car. >
From: hls on 12 Oct 2007 15:42 "Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message > The torque wrench I saw at O'Reilly Auto Parts clicks when > the proper torque has been reached. You just set it to 76 > foot-pounds, and the wrench clicks when 76 is reached. Wonderful. No > guessing. Yep, they've been clicking like that for a long time now;>) The first one I ever had had a dial indicator gauge. Easy to read, easy to use. The clickers came along a little later, and I presently have one of those. They are accurate enough, in general. There are ways to test your torque wrench to make sure it is within specified accuracy. You need reasonable accuracy, but you probably dont need to anguish about whether your lugnuts are 76 lb-ft. If you have an even tightening in the range of 70-80 actual lb-ft, that is good enough in this case. You dont want 40 on some and 100 on some.
From: sharx35 on 12 Oct 2007 15:46 "Scott in Florida" <JustAskl(a)verizon.net> wrote in message news:f7bvg3tik9dnlkm9n3q3ul8lgq4nsutote(a)4ax.com... > On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 10:14:18 -0700, Built_Well > <Built_Well_Toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > >> >>Another thing that disappointed me about my Toyota tech's >>service was the way he tightened the wheel's lug nuts. >> >>Instead of following the manual's procedure of gradually >>tightening the set of 5 nuts on a wheel, he completely >>tightened one, then went onto the next. I would have >>appreciated it if he would have simply tightened each >>nut half-way before returning to it. That's not too much extra work. >> >>Well, at least he did follow a star pattern. But, as >>I said the other day, the worst part was his not using >>a torque wrench to tighten the nuts, so he couldn't have >>precisely applied 76 foot-pounds of torque per lug nut, as the manual >>calls for. >> >>That's not exactly premiere Toyota service. >> >>I can only hope no rotors or drums are being warped. >>(The '06 Camry LE uses drum brakes in the rear and >>disks in front; the '07 uses disk brakes all around). >> >> >>The tech isn't new. He told me he's been working on >>Toyotas for years. And he must be 40- or 50- >>something. So it's not like I got a newcomer to >>work on my car. > > If you want your nuts tightened to the correct torque, I suggest you > go to Sam's club and buy your tires. If I want MY nuts handled properly, I'll go to the Chicken Ranch. > > Included in the price is lifetime rotate and balance. > > They use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts. > > -- > Scott in Florida > > > >
From: Tegger on 12 Oct 2007 19:15 "hls" <hls(a)nospam.nix> wrote in news:f8QPi.6146$oA2.5317(a)nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com: > > "Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message >> The torque wrench I saw at O'Reilly Auto Parts clicks when >> the proper torque has been reached. You just set it to 76 >> foot-pounds, and the wrench clicks when 76 is reached. Wonderful. No >> guessing. > > Yep, they've been clicking like that for a long time now;>) > The first one I ever had had a dial indicator gauge. Easy to read, > easy to use. > The clickers came along a little later, and I presently have one of > those. > > They are accurate enough, in general. There are ways to test your > torque wrench to make sure it is within specified accuracy. You need > reasonable accuracy, but you probably dont need to anguish about > whether your lugnuts are 76 lb-ft. If you have an even tightening in > the range of 70-80 actual lb-ft, > that is good enough in this case. You dont want 40 on some and 100 on > some. > To me, the very best features of clicker wrenches are that you do not need to be in a position to be able to see any kind of readout, plus they have a ratcheting head. These features are mightily advantageous to the home grease monkey working with a car barely a foot off the ground. My Sears Craftsman clicker ($90) is advertised as being accurate to 4%, plenty good enough for most types of work the home grease monkey will screw up. -- Tegger
From: aarcuda69062 on 12 Oct 2007 19:49
In article <aeGdnTS6tcbYVpDanZ2dnUVZ_hudnZ2d(a)comcast.com>, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote: > > If you are going to use an oil that is better than recommended by the > > manufacturer, then you might as well quit fooling around and use a full > > synthetic from a reputable brand like Mobil 1 (and some others). If you do > > that, you don't have to bother with checking API ratings etc. > > > > That logic makes sense, although I'm pretty sure that most automakers > specify API grade SM, GM 6094M, GM 4718M, GM LL-A-25, GM LL-B-25 Ford WSS-M2C153-H, WSS-M2C939-A, WSS-M2C930-A, WSS-M2C931-A Chrysler MS6395N, MS10797, MS10796, MS10798 Honda HTO-6 VW 502, 503, 503.01, 504, 505, 505,01, 506, 506.01, 507 BMW LL-98, LL-01, LL04 Mercedes 229.1, 229.3, 229.31, 229.5, 229.51 For any of the above, an API SM oil is no guarantee that it would also meet the [above] OEM specs although meeting any of the above OEM specs pretty much assures that the oil also meets API service grade SM. > which is what most, if not all, of the oil on the > shelves in auto parts stores is. Sadly true. Odds are, your car is getting the wrong motor oil. > > Using a full synthetic is usually cheaper in the long run for about 75% of > > the people (with the major exception being people who lease a car for 3 > > years or less and do not purchase it when the lease is over). > > > > Of course, this will cut down on sales of new cars, and reduce employment > > in the auto business.. > > We used to say "thank heavens for people who have to have the latest and > greatest new Toyota or business would suck" :-) |