Oil and Filter Change
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From: Scott Dorsey on 2 Nov 2007 10:32 In article <472ab3f4$0$90413$892e0abb(a)auth.newsreader.octanews.com>, Built_Well <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote: >The jack manual also says, "A periodic coating of light lubricating >oil to pivot points, axles, and hinges will help to prevent rust >and assure that wheels, casters, and pump assemblies move freely." > >Unfortunately, the manual doesn't recommend any brand names or specific >types of light lubricating oils. Anyone have any ideas for what to use? The best light machine oil you can buy is a "turbine oil" which is very clean and has no additives. "Zoom Spout Oil" from Ace Hardware is a typical example if you want a small quantity, or Castrol OC-11 from an industrial oil supplier if you want a large quantity. That said, I once worked with a guy who used red ATF on all his tools, and they seemed to keep fine. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: Scott Dorsey on 2 Nov 2007 10:33 Daniel W. Rouse Jr. <dwrousejr(a)nethere.comNOSPAM> wrote: >"Built_Well" <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message >news:472ab3f4$0$90413$892e0abb(a)auth.newsreader.octanews.com... >> The jack manual also says, "A periodic coating of light lubricating >> oil to pivot points, axles, and hinges will help to prevent rust >> and assure that wheels, casters, and pump assemblies move freely." >> >> Unfortunately, the manual doesn't recommend any brand names or specific >> types of light lubricating oils. Anyone have any ideas for what to use? > >I'd interpret that to mean something similar to 3-In-One Multi-purpose oil. Yes, except that 3-in-1 should be avoided because it is prone to turn into a varnish-globbed mess after a few years. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: Built_Well on 3 Nov 2007 13:31 Marsh Monster wrote: > Tegger wrote: >> >> All you need is 18 ft lbs. > > Hmmmmm.......could you please post a link to THAT tightening spec ======== Here's some info from one of Toyota's official repair manuals for the 5th generation Camrys (2002 - 2006). The manuals are found in part or whole at CamryManuals.com, in .pdf format. Idle speed A/T 610 � 710 r/min. M/T 650 � 750 r/min. I assume A/T means automatic transmission, M/T manual tranz., and r/min. revolutions per minute. I think these numbers assume the air conditioning is off. The 5th Generation Camrys are model years 2002 to 2006. Model years 2005 and 2006 can be considered Generation 5.5. The torque that should be applied to the oil pan's drain plug when screwing it on is 18 foot-pounds, just like Tegger said. The metric equivalent of 18 ft-lbf is 25 N-m (255 kgf-cm). The amount of oil to add for a drain and refill with oil filter change is 4 quarts (3.8 quarts without oil filter change). A totally dry fill is 4.8 quarts. How do you get to a totally dry fill (since draining alone doesn't get you to a totally dry fill condition). Is getting to a totally dry fill condition before adding oil a bad idea?
From: Built_Well on 3 Nov 2007 13:40 Forgot to ask: Is 18 foot-pounds of torque on the oil drain plug just tightening it finger-tight, as tight as your fingers can manage? Or do you have to use a wrench to get to 18? 18 foot-pounds doesn't sound like a lot of torque.
From: aarcuda69062 on 3 Nov 2007 14:48
In article <pan.2007.11.03.17.40.06.281976(a)hotmail.com>, Built_Well <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > Forgot to ask: Is 18 foot-pounds of torque on the > oil drain plug just tightening it finger-tight, as > tight as your fingers can manage? If you're the Bionic Man. > Or do you have to > use a wrench to get to 18? 18 foot-pounds doesn't > sound like a lot of torque. The 18ft.lb. spec suggests using a torque wrench, no? The average man can tighten with a screw driver to 72 inch pounds (6 ft.lbs.) |