Oil and Filter Change
in [Toyota]
|
Prev: '98 Prizm stumble on acceleration
Next: Jack stands
From: Ray O on 21 Oct 2007 00:51 "Built_Well" <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:471ad843$0$68461$892e0abb(a)auth.newsreader.octanews.com... > Here's the procedure for rotating tires recommended by the > book "Auto Upkeep - Basic Car Care": > > > Put on your safety glasses. > > Check the owner�s manual for recommended tire rotation patterns. > > Remove wheel covers if applicable. Check the owner�s manual for > procedure. Some covers (hubcaps) have locking mechanisms that need > to be removed first. > > Loosen lug nuts one complete turn with a lug wrench, but no further. > > [The Camry manual says to loosen one-half turn (not much of a > difference.)] > > Use jack and jack stands (or an automotive lift) to raise and support > the vehicle. > > Note the position of each tire. > > Remove the lug nuts on each tire. > > Remove each tire and move it to the new location according to the > owner�s manual recommendations. > > Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. > > [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. > The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and > bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a > wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe > "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the > lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize > here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces > is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] A bolt is a threaded shaft with a head to provide a place to tighten. A stud is a bolt without a head. You should not put anti-seize on the studs. > > [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use > oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the > wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] > > Start all lug nuts by hand. Do not cross-thread nuts. > > Spin the nuts on with a lug wrench and snug. Use a star pattern when > tightening lug nuts. > > [The manual says to "reinstall all the wheel nuts finger-tight" while > the car is in the air.] > > Do not use a pneumatic wrench at this time. > > Lower the vehicle /just/ until the tires touch the ground. > > [Why not lower the car completely at this point, as recommended by > the Camry manual?] > If the lug nuts are only finger-tight or snug, the wheel may not be seated properly. The Camry's manual assumes that the owner is smart enough to make sure that the wheel is properly seated before lowering. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Bruce L. Bergman on 21 Oct 2007 11:47 On Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:40:44 -0500, Built_Well <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > >mred wrote: > >> ....a shop broke a wheel stud trying to get a flat tire off my car... >======== > >I hope the shop fixed the wheel stud free of charge? It sounds like >they informed you of their boo-boo, which was honest of them. > >Anti-seize contains petroleum distillates, according to the >bottle I saw at O'Reilly. It's neat-looking goopy stuff, but I don't >think I'll be using it on the hub and inner wheel mounting surfaces >or the bolts since it's not mentioned in the Camry manual. > >This is what the manual actually says about the hub and inner >wheel interface: > >"Before putting on wheels, remove any corrosion on the mounting >surfaces with a wire brush or such. [The manual actually has >a picture showing a rag being used to wipe the hub and wheel >surface, not a wire brush--I'll probably stick with a soft rag.] >Installation of wheels without good metal-to-metal contact at >the mounting surface can cause wheel nuts to loosen and >eventually cause a wheel to come off while driving." [Page 274] > >Having a wheel come off may be an extreme and unlikely occurence, but >I think somebody may have said that a corroded hub-wheel interface >could lead to tires that won't stay balanced. I'm in So Cal so I don't worry about rust much, but if I was in the snow belt I'd give the hubs and the back side of steel wheels a quick shot of High Heat Barbecue Paint when new, and whenever worked on, to keep the wheels from rusting to the hubs. You don't put on thick paint that could make the rim sit on the hub cockeyed. The paint is going to wear through at the clamping contact points eventually, you want to keep the /other/ areas from rusting. --<< Bruce >>--
From: Nobody Important on 21 Oct 2007 11:54 Why do you only tighten the lug nuts finger-tight while the car is in the air, and wait until it is lowered to tighten them to their final torque? I always tighten them to their final torques (in a star pattern) while the car is in the air, and I know that when the car is on the lift at the service centre, they do the same.
From: Ray O on 21 Oct 2007 11:58 "Nobody Important" <Dr.Xenon1(a)gmail.com> wrote in message news:fffso8$uc7$1(a)aioe.org... > Why do you only tighten the lug nuts finger-tight while the car is in the > air, and wait until it is lowered to tighten them to their final torque? > I always tighten them to their final torques (in a star pattern) while the > car is in the air, and I know that when the car is on the lift at the > service centre, they do the same. If the wheel is not in contact with the ground, tightening the lug nuts with a wrench just spins the entire wheel. if you have an impact gun, this is not a problem. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: Scott in Florida on 21 Oct 2007 12:51
On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:51:35 -0500, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote: >nuts are only finger-tight or snug, the wheel may not be seated >properly. The Camry's manual assumes that the owner is smart enough to make >sure that the wheel is properly seated before lowering. Toyota assumed that soccer moms would be smart enough to change their oil....and sludge happened.... -- Scott in Florida |