Oil and Filter Change
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From: Built_Well on 21 Oct 2007 00:43 Here's the procedure for rotating tires recommended by the book "Auto Upkeep - Basic Car Care": Put on your safety glasses. Check the owner�s manual for recommended tire rotation patterns. Remove wheel covers if applicable. Check the owner�s manual for procedure. Some covers (hubcaps) have locking mechanisms that need to be removed first. Loosen lug nuts one complete turn with a lug wrench, but no further. [The Camry manual says to loosen one-half turn (not much of a difference.)] Use jack and jack stands (or an automotive lift) to raise and support the vehicle. Note the position of each tire. Remove the lug nuts on each tire. Remove each tire and move it to the new location according to the owner�s manual recommendations. Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] Start all lug nuts by hand. Do not cross-thread nuts. Spin the nuts on with a lug wrench and snug. Use a star pattern when tightening lug nuts. [The manual says to "reinstall all the wheel nuts finger-tight" while the car is in the air.] Do not use a pneumatic wrench at this time. Lower the vehicle /just/ until the tires touch the ground. [Why not lower the car completely at this point, as recommended by the Camry manual?] Check the owner�s manual or specification�s chart for torque recommendations. Use a torque wrench or color-coded torque sticks with an impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts on each wheel. When tightening, use a star pattern. Failure to torque wheels may result in warped brake rotors. Under-torqued wheels may allow the wheel to work loose and come off when driving, causing a hazardous situation. Completely lower the vehicle. Recheck all lug nuts with the torque wrench. Replace wheel covers. Clean and put away all tools.
From: Mark A on 21 Oct 2007 03:03 "Built_Well" <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:471ad843$0$68461> Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. > > [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. > The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and > bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a > wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe > "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the > lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize > here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces > is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] > > [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use > oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the > wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] Anti-seize compound is not considered to be an oil or grease, even though it may be a petroleum distillate. There are many compounds made from petroleum that are used to remove oil or grease.
From: Bruce L. Bergman on 21 Oct 2007 03:03 On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:43:09 -0500, Built_Well <built_well_toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote: >Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. > > [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. > The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and > bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a > wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe > "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the > lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize > here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces > is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] > > [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use > oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the > wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] Well, Anti-seize isn't really a grease per se, it's there to make a rust-resistant film. In My Opinion it's far better that the lugs don't rust solid to the studs, than to possibly back off - you aren't putting any anti-seize on the conical seating/clamping face of the lug nuts, so they should have sufficient friction to stay locked in place. Use a TINY dab of nickel-based anti-seize on each stud, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 a water drop in size. Fill in two thread notches for 3/16" to 1/4" wide. The stuff goes a long way, if in doubt use less. Trust me, if the lugs do get loose you'll feel a problem long before it gets bad enough to where the wheel will fall off the car. If I was really paranoid, I would go get some regular hex nuts with the right threads (or some of the special skinny jam nuts if you can find them) and put them on after torquing down the regular lug nuts. But some vehicles would require longer studs, and that won't work on mag wheels with exposed nuts. That, or get side-drilled lug nuts from an aerospace supply and lace them in position on the wheel with safety wire after torquing. --<< Bruce >>--
From: mred on 21 Oct 2007 08:33 On Oct 21, 3:03 am, Bruce L. Bergman <blnospamberg...(a)earthlink.invalid> wrote: > On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 23:43:09 -0500, Built_Well > > <built_well_toy...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > >Apply anti-seize compound to the wheel stud threads. > > > [Built_Well's note: The above step sounds counter-intuitive to me. > > The manual says not to put oil or grease on the wheel's nuts and > > bolts because it can result in over-tightening with a > > wrench, and also result in the nuts loosening over time. I believe > > "wheel stud threads" refers to the wheel's bolts, and you screw the > > lug nuts onto the bolts. So it doesn't sound right to put anti-seize > > here. Maybe putting anti-seize on the hub and wheel mounting surfaces > > is okay, like Ray says, but on the bolts?!] > > > [Here's the exact wording from the manual: "Caution. Never use > > oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the > > wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."] > > Well, Anti-seize isn't really a grease per se, it's there to make a > rust-resistant film. In My Opinion it's far better that the lugs > don't rust solid to the studs, than to possibly back off - you aren't > putting any anti-seize on the conical seating/clamping face of the lug > nuts, so they should have sufficient friction to stay locked in place. > > Use a TINY dab of nickel-based anti-seize on each stud, maybe 1/4 to > 1/2 a water drop in size. Fill in two thread notches for 3/16" to > 1/4" wide. The stuff goes a long way, if in doubt use less. > > Trust me, if the lugs do get loose you'll feel a problem long before > it gets bad enough to where the wheel will fall off the car. > > If I was really paranoid, I would go get some regular hex nuts with > the right threads (or some of the special skinny jam nuts if you can > find them) and put them on after torquing down the regular lug nuts. > But some vehicles would require longer studs, and that won't work on > mag wheels with exposed nuts. > > That, or get side-drilled lug nuts from an aerospace supply and lace > them in position on the wheel with safety wire after torquing. > > --<< Bruce >>-- Ever since a shop broke a wheel stud trying to get a flat tire off my car in Fla. I have used oil or grease on my wheel studs for easy removal. Once burned twice shy so to speak~! In 50 years , I have NEVER ~! and I mean NEVER~!!!!! had a problem with wheels becoming loose after applying grease or oil to the wheel studs.. What it did do ? was make it MUCH easier to remove a wheel when on the road with a flat tire. This is my personal experience with the use of lubricants on wheel studs. However , today ? I get the wheels rotated every six months so theres no chance of the studs rusting tight.
From: Built_Well on 21 Oct 2007 10:40
mred wrote: > ....a shop broke a wheel stud trying to get a flat tire off my car... ======== I hope the shop fixed the wheel stud free of charge? It sounds like they informed you of their boo-boo, which was honest of them. Anti-seize contains petroleum distillates, according to the bottle I saw at O'Reilly. It's neat-looking goopy stuff, but I don't think I'll be using it on the hub and inner wheel mounting surfaces or the bolts since it's not mentioned in the Camry manual. This is what the manual actually says about the hub and inner wheel interface: "Before putting on wheels, remove any corrosion on the mounting surfaces with a wire brush or such. [The manual actually has a picture showing a rag being used to wipe the hub and wheel surface, not a wire brush--I'll probably stick with a soft rag.] Installation of wheels without good metal-to-metal contact at the mounting surface can cause wheel nuts to loosen and eventually cause a wheel to come off while driving." [Page 274] Having a wheel come off may be an extreme and unlikely occurence, but I think somebody may have said that a corroded hub-wheel interface could lead to tires that won't stay balanced. |