From: Mark A on
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message \
> The $80 Craftsman is probably more accurate than the $25 Autozone and
> O'Reilly ones, but if all you are going to do is tighten lug nuts, the
> cheap ones should be good enough.
> Ray O

If all you are going to do is tighten oil drain plug, then you don't need a
torque wrench.

From: news on
Tegger wrote:
> My Sears Craftsman clicker ($90) is advertised as being accurate to 4%,
> plenty good enough for most types of work the home grease monkey will
> screw up.

FWIW, I had mine calibrated last year for $25 at the local Tool World.
One less tool to blame when I break something.

From: Daniel W. Rouse Jr. on
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
> "Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota(a)> wrote in message
> news:1192210129.598510.305010(a)
> >
> > Ray O wrote:
> >> [The tech has] to release the trigger when the lug nut stops
> >> rotating because if you keep hammering, they will still allow
> >> the lug nuts to become over-tightened.
> > ========
> >
> > That's another good reason for the techs to use torque wrenches
> > instead of impact guns with torque sticks.
> >
> > The torque wrench I saw at O'Reilly Auto Parts clicks when
> > the proper torque has been reached. You just set it to 76
> > foot-pounds, and the wrench clicks when 76 is reached. Wonderful. No
> > guessing.
> >
> Did you know that it is possible to over-tighten a nut or bolt with a
> properly set torque wrench? I see it happen quite often.

Four easy ways to avoid that, at least for wheel lug nuts, that have worked
for me are:

1. Use graduated tightening (e.g., first tighten all lug nuts to 40, then
all lug nuts to 60, then to the specified torque).

2. Pull slowly on the wrench, rather than pushing on it, to avoid jerking
the wrench.

3. Stop pulling as soon as the click is felt, there will be a second click
that will be heard and felt as the force is released.

4. If rechecking torque on already secured bolts, use 10 or 20 ft.-lbs. less
(i.e., initially tighten to 80 ft.-lbs., but for future torque checks use 60
or 70 ft.-lbs.). If the bolt moves at the lesser torque, it will obviously
have to be loosened and retorqued to the proper amount; otherwise, it can be
considered "good" (at least until the next torque check).

From: Scott Dorsey on
Nate Nagel <njnagel(a)> wrote:
>Not sure which kind of car you're referring to, but the typical old Fram
>C4 cartridge type filters usually had a bail on them so you could lift
>them out without grabbing ahold of the filter itself.

Oh, yes! I forgot those! No, I was referring to the 1970s and 1980s BMW
filters. I actually made a tool from a wooden rod with a loop of nylon
webbing on it, that allows me to grab the filter and pull it up from the
top without making a mess of thing or burning myself. On the BMW, the
canister containing the filter comes off, not just a cover, so all the
residual oil left in the canister can be poured out.

>Sadly, when Studebaker bought the housings from Fram, they neglected to
>spec a drain petcock so you have to suck out the dirty oil with a
>suction gun to do a "complete" oil change.

Easy enough to change with a drill and tap.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
From: Built_Well on

I mention the following shopping bargains in case anyone else
is in the market for torque wrenches and floor jacks, essential
tools for rotating your own tires.

I saw a 1/2-inch torque wrench at Home Depot that tightens
to a maximum of 250 foot-pounds for $70. The brandname is
Husky and it's made in Taiwan. I wonder if I should get this
instead of the $80 Craftsman on sale for $60 at Sears? The
Craftsman only torques to 150 ft.-lbs. (not 250), but it is
made in the U.S.A., except for its case and packaging which
were made in Mexico.

The Craftsman floor jack at Sears that is low-profile and
raises 2.5 tons to 15 inches appears to be the exact same
model as the Black Jack at Walmart. The Walmart one costs
$30, and the Craftsman costs $50 ($45 on sale). Both made
in China, and both apparently identical. I'll probably
buy the 2.25-ton A.C. Delco at O'Reilly since it lifts
a half-inch more to 15.5 inches for $35.

The Michelin jack at Sam's Club lifts 3.5 tons, not the
4 to 6 tons I mentioned last time. It lifts very high to
22 inches for $65, but isn't really transportable like
the A.C. Delco, which come with its own carrying case.

The 1/2-inch 150 foot-pound torqe wrench at AutoZone has
a brandname of Great Neck, and is made in Taiwan. The
O'Reilly wrench is also made in Taiwan. Both retail for
$25. The O'Reilly sales guy said theirs has a lifetime
warranty (don't know about the AutoZone one). The O'Reilly
wrench has a brandname of Precision something.

A 3-ton pair of Sears Craftsman jack stands costs $20; $17 at
Walmart. Note these are 3-ton pairs, not 2-tons. The 3-ton
stands at Harbor Freight are also about $20 and have a range
of 11.75 inches to 16.75 inches.

I stopped by Harbor Freight for the first time. Nice store
and very busy. They sell a 150 ft-lb, 1/2-inch torque wrench
for $20 ($15 on sale). It comes in an orange case and is made
overseas (probably Taiwan again--don't recall).
It hurt me to pass on that bargain. But I'll probably buy the
Craftsman while it's on sale for $60 until Oct. 20th, unless someone
can convince me the 250 foot-pound Husky for $70 at Home Depot
is a better wrench to buy.

There's a 3/8-inch Craftsman wrench at Sears called the Digi-Tork
that on sale for $100 (regular $120). It has a small level-like
window that displays the torque. Despite its name, it's not digital
like the $230 Craftsman that has an accuracy of +/- 2 percent CW and
+/- 3 percent CCW, whatever CW and CCW mean.

Happy shopping.
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