From: Steve on
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>I'm not suggesting he ignore the code. I'm only suggesting that he can wait
>until Saturday to get a part and screw it in.

Thanks Jeff. Does this mean it's an easy DIY fix? What part number
would I need?
From: Ray O on

"Steve" <hgd(a)wsx.inv> wrote in message
news:c8c0a55t2lgnuhckirc6q5vcogl22ekkng(a)4ax.com...
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>I'm not suggesting he ignore the code. I'm only suggesting that he can
>>wait
>>until Saturday to get a part and screw it in.
>
> Thanks Jeff. Does this mean it's an easy DIY fix? What part number
> would I need?

The air/fuel sensor is pretty pricey. I would check it before replacing it.
Whether or not it is an easy DIY fix depends on how easily the old one comes
out of the exhaust manifold.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


From: Jeff Strickland on

"Steve" <hgd(a)wsx.inv> wrote in message
news:c8c0a55t2lgnuhckirc6q5vcogl22ekkng(a)4ax.com...
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>I'm not suggesting he ignore the code. I'm only suggesting that he can
>>wait
>>until Saturday to get a part and screw it in.
>
> Thanks Jeff. Does this mean it's an easy DIY fix? What part number
> would I need?

Easy depends on where it is and what's in the way. It's easy in theory,
unscrew the old one and screw in the new one, fiddle with the electrical
connections as needed.

In practice, the front bumper has to be removed to get to the grill so you
can take the radiator out to get to the exhaust manifold where the sensor
lives.

The sensor might need a special socket wrench, or it might just need a
simple end wrench. Depends on what's in the way.


Part Number? Got me ...




From: Jeff Strickland on

"Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
news:h7q9c0$5ti$2(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "Steve" <hgd(a)wsx.inv> wrote in message
> news:c8c0a55t2lgnuhckirc6q5vcogl22ekkng(a)4ax.com...
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>I'm not suggesting he ignore the code. I'm only suggesting that he can
>>>wait
>>>until Saturday to get a part and screw it in.
>>
>> Thanks Jeff. Does this mean it's an easy DIY fix? What part number
>> would I need?
>
> The air/fuel sensor is pretty pricey. I would check it before replacing
> it. Whether or not it is an easy DIY fix depends on how easily the old one
> comes out of the exhaust manifold.



Remember, the code is for the heater. This is not a case of reporting lean
or rich, it's a case of reporting that the heater is not working. Not alot
to check.

For a lean or rich condition, one can check other systems --
broken/disconnected vacuum lines, other upstream sensors, the actual output
of the A/F Sensor or O2 Sensor (as the case may be). But a failed heater in
the sensor can't be anything else, with the possible exception of a broken
wire leading to the heater element.






From: Ray O on

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:h7ra8t$rf4$1(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "Ray O" <rokigawa(a)NOSPAMtristarassociates.com> wrote in message
> news:h7q9c0$5ti$2(a)news.eternal-september.org...
>>
>> "Steve" <hgd(a)wsx.inv> wrote in message
>> news:c8c0a55t2lgnuhckirc6q5vcogl22ekkng(a)4ax.com...
>>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>>I'm not suggesting he ignore the code. I'm only suggesting that he can
>>>>wait
>>>>until Saturday to get a part and screw it in.
>>>
>>> Thanks Jeff. Does this mean it's an easy DIY fix? What part number
>>> would I need?
>>
>> The air/fuel sensor is pretty pricey. I would check it before replacing
>> it. Whether or not it is an easy DIY fix depends on how easily the old
>> one comes out of the exhaust manifold.
>
>
>
> Remember, the code is for the heater. This is not a case of reporting lean
> or rich, it's a case of reporting that the heater is not working. Not alot
> to check.

True, but the correct advice, at least according the the folks who designed
and built the car, is to check the heater circuit. I like the factory's
advice, especially since it only takes about 30 seconds more than just
swapping the part. IMO, investing the time and effort to check the heater
circuit is well worth avoidng the possibility, however small, that something
else is the cause.

>
> For a lean or rich condition, one can check other systems --
> broken/disconnected vacuum lines, other upstream sensors, the actual
> output of the A/F Sensor or O2 Sensor (as the case may be). But a failed
> heater in the sensor can't be anything else, with the possible exception
> of a broken wire leading to the heater element.
>

There are a couple of other possibilities...

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)