From: Jeff on
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
> "Jeff" <kidsdoc2000(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:D_3hj.5180$sH.2986(a)trnddc04...
>> JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
>>
>> <...>
>>
>>> If there really was no oil pressure, you'd would've killed your car by
>>> now.
>> Or there could be damage that will cause the car to die in a few months.
>
>
> If you literally had NO oil pressure, my understanding is that you have
> minutes, if you're lucky. I had an oil pump die on my 92 Taurus, while going
> 65 mph. I got a warning light and a very odd sound, and killed the ignition
> instantly. Mechanic's comment: "You were really lucky your hand moved so
> fast."
>
> It's interesting handling a car onto the shoulder with no power to the
> brakes or steering at those speeds, while also (by the way) towing a boat.
> :-)

In that situation, you're probably better off putting the engine in
neutral (so you have better braking and steering) for ten seconds or so
that it takes for you to slow down the car and boat. Better to have to
rebuild an engine than buy a new car and boat and have recuperate in the
trauma unit of the hospital.

Jeff
From: JoeSpareBedroom on
"Jeff" <kidsdoc2000(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:sH4hj.5185$sH.4153(a)trnddc04...
> JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
>> "Jeff" <kidsdoc2000(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:D_3hj.5180$sH.2986(a)trnddc04...
>>> JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
>>>
>>> <...>
>>>
>>>> If there really was no oil pressure, you'd would've killed your car by
>>>> now.
>>> Or there could be damage that will cause the car to die in a few months.
>>
>>
>> If you literally had NO oil pressure, my understanding is that you have
>> minutes, if you're lucky. I had an oil pump die on my 92 Taurus, while
>> going 65 mph. I got a warning light and a very odd sound, and killed the
>> ignition instantly. Mechanic's comment: "You were really lucky your hand
>> moved so fast."
>>
>> It's interesting handling a car onto the shoulder with no power to the
>> brakes or steering at those speeds, while also (by the way) towing a
>> boat. :-)
>
> In that situation, you're probably better off putting the engine in
> neutral (so you have better braking and steering) for ten seconds or so
> that it takes for you to slow down the car and boat. Better to have to
> rebuild an engine than buy a new car and boat and have recuperate in the
> trauma unit of the hospital.
>
> Jeff


If I wasn't on a straight, smooth highway, I might've done that. I'm lucky
it happened where it did. 45 minutes later, we would've been on some very
curvy mountain roads. That would've added another level of "interesting".

When I was learning to drive, my dad had me kill the engine in a big empty
parking lot, just to see what happens. I'm glad he did. I did the same with
my son.

Side note: Don't ever waste your time making a hundred phone calls, trying
to rent a vehicle with which to tow a trailer in NY. No rental company will
allow it. Not even U-Haul or Ryder, unless the trailer is provided by them.
What a phuqued up vacation we had, with my boat sitting in a car dealer's
parking lot.......


From: C. E. White on

"Doctor Chen" <phdchen(a)google.com> wrote in message
news:je38o3h78ubkpvb78v415kgbvlsogfbmaq(a)4ax.com...
>>Warranty still in effect, or is it gone at 36K?
>>
>
> Gone. Figures problems always started right after the warranty is
> gone.

No, the warranty is not gone - at least for the powertrain, which is where
you are having problems. "Powertrain Coverage: 60 months/60,000 miles
(engine, transmission/transaxle, front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive,
seatbelts and air bags)."

Take your car to the dealer, tell them to call you to authorize any charge
before doing any non-warranty work.

Ed


From: JoeSpareBedroom on
"C. E. White" <cewhite3(a)mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:13o9psqbj6u6o20(a)corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Doctor Chen" <phdchen(a)google.com> wrote in message
> news:je38o3h78ubkpvb78v415kgbvlsogfbmaq(a)4ax.com...
>>>Warranty still in effect, or is it gone at 36K?
>>>
>>
>> Gone. Figures problems always started right after the warranty is
>> gone.
>
> No, the warranty is not gone - at least for the powertrain, which is where
> you are having problems. "Powertrain Coverage: 60 months/60,000 miles
> (engine, transmission/transaxle, front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive,
> seatbelts and air bags)."
>
> Take your car to the dealer, tell them to call you to authorize any charge
> before doing any non-warranty work.
>
> Ed
>

Why? The car needs what it needs, and it doesn't sound like the OP is
qualified to debate mechanical issues, nor does he seem to have an
independent mechanic he trusts. If he did, he would called that person by
now.


From: Ray O on

"Doctor Chen" <phdchen(a)google.com> wrote in message
news:eig9o3pdpmjn67bl7mvceucv6rabp8kfvo(a)4ax.com...
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 00:14:15 -0600, "Ray O"
> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Doctor Chen" <phdchen(a)google.com> wrote in message
>>news:cru7o353oqtliopn8r0pdlepiniqs9nnkj(a)4ax.com...
>>>
>>> This is weird. My family took a trip overseas for one month and when
>>> we returned the car is shot.
>>>
>>> First it's the usual low battery, ok no problem, I jump started it.
>>>
>>> But big problems when I tried to drive it. First the check engine
>>> light when on right away after the ignition is on. Then as I drive
>>> around my community the VSC and "car slippery" lights are on and I
>>> notice the suspensions are having some weird grumbling sounds.
>>>
>>> Any help are greatly appreciated. The car was totally fine when we
>>> left it.
>>>
>>> 2007 Toyota Camry SE V6, 40,000 miles.
>>>
>>> VSC and "car slippery" light on.
>>> Hear grumbling hard-spinning sounds from all 4 suspensions (wheels)
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>
>>I'm not really sure what you mean by "car slippery" lights, but it could
>>be
>>an indication that the VSC system is sensing that the car is in a skid and
>>the VSC computer is trying to correct the skid but can't so it illuminated
>>the VSC warning light. The grumbling sounds are probably a result of
>>debris
>>or rust buildup on the rotors from having been parked in a humid
>>environment
>>for a while, or it could be the VSC applying the brakes in an attempt to
>>control the skid that it is incorrectly sensing.. If this is the case, a
>>few applications of the brakes should make the sounds go away. Check to
>>make sure there is no debris caught behind the wheels and make sure the
>>tires are properly inflated.
>>
>>I would go to a place like Autozone and borrow an OBD II code scanner an
>>pull trouble codes. It is possible that there is a problem with one of
>>the
>>wheel speed sensors, but you usually also get and ABS trouble light as
>>well.
>>
>>Let us know what codes, if any come up and if a few applications of the
>>brakes solve the problem.
>
> Ok, after driven around (street and highway) I notice the brake sound
> is minimal (the rust is gone, so that's good), but the grumbling
> caused by the VSC is still there when I brake. I think somone is
> right when they say the car incorrectly senses the car going slippery
> and tries to fix it.
>
> Also, one more clue, I notice I'm not getting any oil pressure on the
> oil meter even though I'm driving for a good 10 min. on the road
> including highway.
>

When was the last time the oil was changed in the car and where was it
changed? Check the engine oil level on the dipstick and check the
transmission oil on the transmission dipstick and let us know what color you
see on the dipsticks and what the fluid levels are. If the transmission
fluid level does not show up on the transmission dipstick but the engine oil
dipstick shows way over-filled, someone mistakenly drained the transmission
fluid during an engine oil change and then over-filled the engine oil. The
extreme engine oil overfill may cause the oil to foam, and then the foam
would not circulate through the engine properly, showing low or no oil
pressure. If you find this, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR!!! Have it towed to a
competent shop for proper diagnosis and repair.

In any event, if there is no oil pressure showing up on the oil pressure
gauge, the car should be towed to a shop for diagnosis and repair. If the
oil pressure gauge is functioning properly and engine oil pressure is in
fact too low, severe engine damage will result, if it has not already
happened.

Regarding the grumbling when you brake, the next step is to remove the
wheels for an inspection of all four brakes. With the wheels off of the
ground, check to see that none of the brakes calipers or shoes are frozen
and that the rotors or drums are not rusted.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)



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