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From: john on 25 Oct 2009 01:09 I'd just do dino oil changes every 3000 miles, 10W-30. Purolator PureOne filter. If you need a larger one Motorcraft FL400S at Walmart. I believe Toyota may have a similar sized filter if you insist on OEM? If you want to go synthetic use Mobil-1, again 10W-30, 5000 miles max. Personally I think it's a waste of money. It's easier to get rid of contaminants every 3000 miles with dino and a good filter. BTW, in 2004 Toyota lowered all normal service intervals from 7500 miles down to 5000 miles because of sludge. On Oct 24, 7:23 pm, "mark hoffman" <betrti...(a)windstream.net> wrote: > I know there is lots of regular oil change receipts in an envelope in the > glove box. I love buying a car that has some documentation of servicing. > > In the envelope, is the sales contract when she bought the car, a check stub > that indicates she was a traveling nurse, etc, and a warning ticket from the > highway patrol.. couldn't make out what the ticket was for though. > > Mike, what brand of synthetic do you recommend? this car will be an around > town use, with an occasional 2 hr round trip to Texarkana, etc. > > thanks
From: john on 25 Oct 2009 01:11 Was the timing belt, water pump, and crank/cam seals changed? Alternator brush assembly (~$15)? Transmission serviced and a new strainer? Differential fluid drained/refilled? On Oct 24, 5:18 pm, "mark hoffman" <betrti...(a)windstream.net> wrote: > I just bought a 1998 Toyota Avalon, 163,000 miles, cold air, all the power > stuff works, good headliner, 3.0 L v-6, 24 valve engine. > > Drives and rides nice, got it for an "around town and short trips" car. > First 30 miles was getting it home from the dealer I bought it from. > > Any advice, words of wisdom, etc? I have already ordered an owners manual > and a dealer brochure from Ebay. > > Thanks
From: mark hoffman on 25 Oct 2009 09:28 john wrote: > Was the timing belt, water pump, and crank/cam seals changed? > Alternator brush assembly (~$15)? Transmission serviced and a new > strainer? Differential fluid drained/refilled? nothing mentioned about those items, mainly regular oil changes, replacement windshield, headlight bulbs, wiper blades, one alignment and new front tires... probably not a complete file, but enough of an indication she did regular oil changes I know she had to buy more than 2 tires in 5 years, she had the car 50,000 miles. Plus the dealership just went through the brakes with new pads when they took it in on trade, sometime after 9/15.. thats the last oil change, receipt has her name on it.
From: Mike Hunter on 25 Oct 2009 09:59 Since Toyota is recommending 5K oil change intervals, I would use the least expensive synthetic. "mark hoffman" <betrtimes(a)windstream.net> wrote in message news:37t2cb.ibk.19.1(a)news.alt.net... > Mike Hunter wrote: >> Did you have it checked for Toyotas engine sludge problem? > > > I know there is lots of regular oil change receipts in an envelope in the > glove box. I love buying a car that has some documentation of servicing. > > In the envelope, is the sales contract when she bought the car, a check > stub that indicates she was a traveling nurse, etc, and a warning ticket > from the highway patrol.. couldn't make out what the ticket was for > though. > > Mike, what brand of synthetic do you recommend? this car will be an around > town use, with an occasional 2 hr round trip to Texarkana, etc. > > thanks >
From: Mike Hunter on 25 Oct 2009 10:10 Contaminants were never the problem, it was the design of the new head that Toyota began using on that engine, it caused oil to "coke" around the valves. The only real cure was for Toyota to basically go back to the older head design in August of 2003 and recommend using synthetics, that are less susceptible to coking, and the 5K oil intervals. "john" <johngdole(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message news:09982f06-118b-47a8-ac2b-7a0bc5aa8ccc(a)o9g2000prg.googlegroups.com... I'd just do dino oil changes every 3000 miles, 10W-30. Purolator PureOne filter. If you need a larger one Motorcraft FL400S at Walmart. I believe Toyota may have a similar sized filter if you insist on OEM? If you want to go synthetic use Mobil-1, again 10W-30, 5000 miles max. Personally I think it's a waste of money. It's easier to get rid of contaminants every 3000 miles with dino and a good filter.
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