Bleeding Brakes on a 99 Avalon w/ABS and TC
in [Toyota]
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From: edge on 1 Nov 2009 15:20 The tech manual says that brakes can be bled using a normal bleed procedure of RR, LR, RF, LF. I'll be using either gravity bleed or a one man hose w/check valve. If I still get a soft pedal is there a way to bleed the ABS actuator? I did the first bleed on the RR and found the bleeder screws are leaking around the threads when I open them about 1/8 to 1/4. Can grease be applied at the threads to seal without contaminating the brake fluid?
From: Ray O on 1 Nov 2009 18:45 "edge" <thedge000(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b8f26f44-f912-4f96-986e-27875b6f999a(a)p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com... > The tech manual says that brakes can be bled using a normal bleed > procedure of RR, LR, RF, LF. I'll be using either gravity bleed or a > one man hose w/check valve. If I still get a soft pedal is there a > way to bleed the ABS actuator? I did the first bleed on the RR and > found the bleeder screws are leaking around the threads when I open > them about 1/8 to 1/4. Can grease be applied at the threads to seal > without contaminating the brake fluid? If you still get a soft pedal after you bleed the brakes in the order you listed above, you need to go back and bleed in the same sequence, masking sure that each caliper grips the rotor so that the rotor cannot be turned by hand. The ABS actuator has no effect on pedal feel when it is not operating so don't mess with it. I believe that the bleeder screws are tapered so some leaking around the threads when they are opened is OK as long as they do not leak when screwed shut. Do not apply any grease to the threads; the seeping brake fluid should be sufficient. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
From: edge on 8 Nov 2009 20:46 > If you still get a soft pedal after you bleed the brakes in the order you > listed above, you need to go back and bleed in the same sequence, masking > sure that each caliper grips the rotor so that the rotor cannot be turned by > hand. > > The ABS actuator has no effect on pedal feel when it is not operating so > don't mess with it. > > I believe that the bleeder screws are tapered so some leaking around the > threads when they are opened is OK as long as they do not leak when screwed > shut. Do not apply any grease to the threads; the seeping brake fluid > should be sufficient. > -- > > Ray O I am still getting a soft pedal after the bleed. Caliper grip on the rotor was OK. Braking power is very good an starts near the top of the pedal stroke, but pedal will go to 1 inch off the floor and is not firm. This is not my car, but this does not sound normal. It sound more like there is a master cylinder problem, if I had to change it out do I need to purge the ABS or other part of the system. If so, how - do I need a scan tool?
From: Ray O on 8 Nov 2009 21:38 "edge" <thedge000(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message news:d90b6988-29e2-4ee1-a7cf-432b78857cfc(a)j24g2000yqa.googlegroups.com... > If you still get a soft pedal after you bleed the brakes in the order you > listed above, you need to go back and bleed in the same sequence, masking > sure that each caliper grips the rotor so that the rotor cannot be turned > by > hand. > > The ABS actuator has no effect on pedal feel when it is not operating so > don't mess with it. > > I believe that the bleeder screws are tapered so some leaking around the > threads when they are opened is OK as long as they do not leak when > screwed > shut. Do not apply any grease to the threads; the seeping brake fluid > should be sufficient. > -- > > Ray O I am still getting a soft pedal after the bleed. Caliper grip on the rotor was OK. Braking power is very good an starts near the top of the pedal stroke, but pedal will go to 1 inch off the floor and is not firm. This is not my car, but this does not sound normal. It sound more like there is a master cylinder problem, if I had to change it out do I need to purge the ABS or other part of the system. If so, how - do I need a scan tool? ************ If you have to replace the master cylinder, it is not necessary to purge the ABS but you will have to re-bleed the system. As far as I know, the master cylinders on those vehicles are not prone to failure or problems so that would be low on my list of suspects, The next step is to remove each caliper and make sure that the slide pins and the sleeves for the pins in and out freely to the limit of the rubber boots. The symptoms you are describing could be caused by a stuck caliper slide pin or sleeve. -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
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