From: "WindsorFox [SS]>" on
HLS wrote:
> "Steve" <no(a)spam.thanks> wrote in message >
>> If you believe that particular engines are "not suitable for synthetic
>> oil," then there's no use trying to have an intelligent,
>> engineering-based discussion.
> No, there isnt.. I went back to the distributor on this and they told me
> that B&S did not recommend synthetics in this engine, and I shouldnt
> have assumed that the Mobil 1 would be a good choice after break-in.

That is a big fat juicy crock.

> I went into the B&S, honed it, installed new rings, etc, and it lasted a
> few
> hours, but quickly went to hell again. Got rid of it, dont want to hear
> that
> technically the synthetic should have been great..
> Either the B&S was BS, or the lubricant was unacceptable.
> Next mower, I used what B&S recommended, and it worked fine (until it
> was stolen a couple of months ago).
> I can talk engineering with you all day long, but this is not a case
> where I
> am very open to "shoulda, coulda, and woulda".

Most of the SGEs I know of people NEVER change the oil and just top
it off and they run for eons. Please....

"Boy, I've spent my adult life dealing with people like you.
There are few things that intimidate me; and a
post-adolescent, semi-literate cretin ain't one of them." - LSP972
From: "WindsorFox [SS]>" on
Mark A wrote:
> "C. E. White" <cewhite3(a)> wrote in message
> news:49342cd8$1(a)kcnews01...
>> What $3 Fram filer? I checked on-line prices at local auto parts stores
>> (Advance and AutoZone). The $3.99 Fram (PH2) and the $6.99 Fram (TG2)
>> equivalents to the Motorcraft FL820S ($3.68) both include the same glued
>> cardboard end caps and the same mediocre relief valve. The $6.99 Fram
>> filter does buy you a silicone anti-drain back valve. However, the CHEAPER
>> Motorcraft FL820S includes the silicone anti-drain back valve, a very
>> robust pressure relief valve, and potted metal end caps. There is no
>> comparison, the Fram filters are a rip off, at least for this application.
>> Maybe for other applications, the Fram filters are better. I can't say for
>> sure. I've only cut open Fram filters for a few applications (FL820S, FL1,
>> a Honda Filter) and they all had the same basic construction that I don't
>> like.
>> Ed
> I think the price of the ExtraGuard is closer to $3 at Walmart, although I
> admit I haven't checked the price recently.
> Even though I explicitly mentioned to you the ExtendedGuard filter (which
> costs about $11) you are still ignoring it as though it does not exist. By
> your won admission you have never examined one.
> Fram also makes a Racing Oil filter, which although I have not used, I
> assume it is of suitable quality (not sure if there is a problem with using
> it in a normal street application).
> The point is not whether Fram filters are too expensive compared to others,
> the problem is that you claimed all Fram filters are junk, when the fact is
> they make some excellent quality filters in addition to the less expensive
> ones.
> So please, if you don't like the Fram ExtraGuard or you think the
> ExtendedGuard is overpriced, that is fine, but don't lump all Fram filter
> together.

Until they put a window in it ALL Fram filters are junk. And, isn't
"extra guard" the one that contains Teflon?? Yeah, great idea there.

"Boy, I've spent my adult life dealing with people like you.
There are few things that intimidate me; and a
post-adolescent, semi-literate cretin ain't one of them." - LSP972
From: Mark A on
"WindsorFox<[SS]>" <> wrote in message
> Until they put a window in it ALL Fram filters are junk. And, isn't
> "extra guard" the one that contains Teflon?? Yeah, great idea there.

No, the ExtraGuard is the cheapo $3-4 filter. The one with Teflon/PTFE
inside is not on their website (that I can see), but I think it was called
the DoubleGuard. Some of the current filters have PTFE on the exterior
gaskets. On the website they list the ExtraGuard, ToughGuard, ExtendedGuard,
and Racing filter (apparently some Ford and Chevys only), and an additional
one sold in Canada. They also have a high-mileage filter, presumably with
the same chemicals found in high mileage oil being marketed these days
(works OK if you have some sort of problem, like minor leaking and/or minor
oil burning).

I will admit that the ExtraGuard and ToughGuard are crappy and mediocre
respectively, but the ExtendedGuard is quite well made (should be for about
$10-$11), and I don't see how anyone can question the build quality. The
ExtendedGuard and Racing oil filters may be expensive, but they are very
good/excellent filters. I generally use the Mobil 1 filter, but when not
available I use the Fram ExtendedGuard filter.

If you want to see the inside of the Fram filters, check out this website
(click on "Technology" for the filter you want info on).

One more thing. Based on your posts, it is safe to assume that there is
nothing but sawdust inside your skull, unless you put a window on head and
we can see otherwise.

From: RM v2.0 on

> I was really only suggesting that analysis might be a good idea for those
> people that don't understand how needless it is to do a 3000 mile oil
> change on a modern engine. They've been brainwashed by companies like
> Jiffy Lube and/or they remember what their father or grandfather told them
> back in the 1960's, and haven't updated this knowledge to account for
> higher quality multi-weight detergent motor oils, versus cans of SAE 30,
> even though every independent test has shown how needless 3000 mile
> changes actually are.
I dont get this either, both my Dodge truck and car recommend 7500 mile
changes for light use. Yet every place that changes it insists on sticking
that 3k mile interval on my windshield. I know why they do it, more changes
= more money for them but why do owners put up with it? I bet we could save
a significant amount of oil if we stopped all the useless changes.

From: Scott Dorsey on
SMS <scharf.steven(a)> wrote:
>A lot more engines are destroyed by a loss of coolant than "worn out"
>oil. My nephew destroyed a three year old BMW X5 by not knowing or not
>noticing the temperature gauge, after the water pump started leaking.

This is unfortunately a known issue on these cars. But in Driver's Ed,
didn't your nephew get taught to run his eyes across the gauges every
couple minutes and make sure everything was okay? You gotta watch them.

>Alway a pet peeve that the manufacturers don't put in some sort of an
>audible warning of when to pull over and stop the vehicle. Click and
>Clack used to say that the temperature idiot light shouldn't say TEMP,
>it should say $3000 (this was a long time ago), since that's what
>repairs will cost if you don't stop immediately.

Look, if the driver isn't watching the gauges, who is to say a red light
or a buzzer or a gadget that pokes him in the side is going to do any good
either? I recently saw a Corolla whose engine had melted down into slag.
The owner noted that the oil light had been on for a couple weeks and he
kept meaning to have it checked.

It's important to pay attention to the gauges.... that's what they are
there for.

Your nephew's problem MAY have been accelerated by the fact that a lot
of newer BMWs don't have real temperature gauges any more, just gadgets
with a needle that indicate three positions. Seems BMW doesn't trust
modern drivers either.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."