From: "WindsorFox [SS]>" on 29 Nov 2008 14:56
> Ray O wrote:
>> If removal of a valve cover confirmed that at least the top end of the
>> engine was as clean as the seller claimed, then continuing to use
>> synthetic oil is probably a good bet.
> How often have you removed a valve cover on a high-mileage vehicle that
> has had regular oil changes with conventional detergent motor oil and
> seen a gunked up top end?
Too numerous to count. Do not use Syntec.
I admit that my experiences are limited to the
> one vehicle I had that required valve adjustments with shims, a 1979 VW
> Rabbit, but at 200K miles the engine was clean and had full compression,
> after having only conventional oil in every oil change (yeah, back then
> I was doing 3K changes). I remember that it had only a 5 digit odometer,
> so when I finally sold it I thought, 'hey, if I was dishonest I could
> claim that this vehicle only had 60K miles.' The paint was still in
> excellent condition.
"Boy, I've spent my adult life dealing with people like you.
There are few things that intimidate me; and a
post-adolescent, semi-literate cretin ain't one of them." - LSP972
From: Ray O on 29 Nov 2008 15:01
"WindsorFox<[SS]>" <windsor.fox.usenet(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
> SMS wrote:
>> Ray O wrote:
>>> If removal of a valve cover confirmed that at least the top end of the
>>> engine was as clean as the seller claimed, then continuing to use
>>> synthetic oil is probably a good bet.
>> How often have you removed a valve cover on a high-mileage vehicle that
>> has had regular oil changes with conventional detergent motor oil and
>> seen a gunked up top end?
> Too numerous to count. Do not use Syntec.
(correct punctuation to reply)
From: mred on 30 Nov 2008 08:12
On Nov 24, 2:02 am, HiC <brasspl...(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
> I see opinions of the "I swear by" type all over the map. Anyone know
> of a good site that shows the truth about which brand/type of oil &
> filter performs the best? Thinking in the passenger car realm.
I have been driving cars since I was 15 years old (59) years and usd
to do all my own oil changes until I got too old .
The big thing with oil and filters is to change the oil and filter
regularly and often, regardless of brand.
When I was a poor young lad I used reclaimed motor oil that had been
re-refined and the cheapest oil filter I could get.
Now that I can afford to pay someone to do my oil changes ? I take it
to a Toyota dealer and they change the oil for me for $20.00 Canadian
and change including the filter, but I supply the oil (Mobil1 5W30
yellow cap extended service , $27.00 and change at Walmart for 4-5
In all those years I have never, ever, had an oil related problem with
In my early years before synthetic oil I changed the oil+filter every
2400-3000 miles because MOST of my driving was severe service (city)
Now with the extended service Mobil1 Synthetic,(yellow cap) I change
it every 5000 miles .Yellow cap is GAURANTEED FOR 15,000 MILES BY
Since my driving is now about 50-50 NORMAL and severe service(highway
Like I say , I have never , ever ,had an oil related problem with any
of my cars over the years.
Most of my cars have gone well over 315,000 klms and then were given
to my kids ,and they still ran forever.
The secret is ;change your oil according to your driving conditions.
From: HLS on 30 Nov 2008 10:41
"SMS" <scharf.steven(a)geemail.com> wrote in message news:3OzXk.8376
> Most any oil can do 10,000 mile in terms of providing lubrication.
> Synthetics become acidic, and eventually become saturated with suspended
> soot particles, just like regular oil. An oil analysis is a good
> investment to determine the optimum oil change interval.
> The synthetic base stock is better for low temperature start-ups, and
> high-temperature continued operation, such as is seen in high
> performance and turbo-charged engines.
Claims do not constitute proof...
From: HLS on 30 Nov 2008 10:46
"SMS" <scharf.steven(a)geemail.com> wrote in message
> Ashton Crusher wrote:
>> Unless you are servicing large diesel locomotives, and perhaps some
>> large trucks, the only value to an oil analysis is to make money for
>> the company providing the service or to help determine AFTER THE FACT
>> what went wrong. For the cost of the analysis you could just have the
>> oil changed.
> Wrong. You get the analysis to determine the optimal change interval, it's
> a one or time expense of less than $20, versus the continued cost of
> changing your oil more often than necessary.
Wrong yourself...as your car ages, you have to keep up the occasional
if you are going to monitor the indicated status of the lubricant. Wear,
changes with time. Particulates in the oil are supposed to be very
the wear picture, but the data behind this is lacking and incomplete as far
Some of these oil laboratories have rather poor reproducibility in their
Interpretation of the results can also be misleading.
Anyone who wishes to do so can spend his money on oil analyses.