From: Built_Well on

How's that for a comprehensively titled subject line {LOL}

Tony, in addition to the excellent advice from Hachiroku and
Ray, you might want to review the following tutorial from Amsoil
about changing the ATF.

Keep in mind that the steps in the tutorial may differ slightly
depending upon the type of car you have. You didn't mention
your car's model, or anything else in the body of your
message, which was blank--only your subject line appeared.

Anyway, this is a good, general tutorial that will be
helpful. I've added my own Camry-sepcific notes to it in
square brackets [ ] .

Incidentally, although the 2006 Camry manual says Automatic
Transmission Fluid (ATF) doesn't need to be changed in the Camry
unless you drive under one of the Special Operating conditions like
on dusty roads or while towing, I think if you own the car
long enough--say for 120,000 miles--it's a good idea to change
the ATF, its filter, and the ATF pan's gasket, and to clean out
the pan really well after 120,000 miles.

Here's the good ATF change procedure guide I found at
Amsoil.com [my special notes again are in brackets]. The guide
is dated 3 years ago: 9/26/2005.

OBJECTIVE:

To provide the proper automatic transmission
fluid and filter change procedures.

ISSUES:

Many quick lube oil change companies are using flushing
machines to change the automatic transmission fluid.
Using flushing machines does not address the need for
cleaning the sediment in the transmission pan, cleaning
the magnet inside the transmission pan, or changing the
transmission oil filter.

TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:

Flushing machines are used to provide a quick transmission
fluid change, however they do not address transmission
pan cleanliness or filter changes. By taking the
transmission pan off, sediment in the pan as well as the
magnet can be cleaned, and the fluid filter can be
changed. Manufacturers recommend a filter change with
the oil change, and recommend against the use of flushing
machines due to possible fluid contamination from
pan sediment. [Built_Well's Note: "oil change" in the previous
sentence must be referring to the AT fluid change. Sometimes
Automatic Transmission Fluid is referred to as
Automatic Transmission oil, I believe.]

RECOMMENDATION:

AMSOIL recommends transmission fluid and filter changes based
on the following 14 steps. For a transmission pan and filter
oil change follow steps 1 through 12 and 14, for a complete
system flush and filter change follow steps 1 through 14.


1. Access the AMSOIL web page (www.amsoil.com) and click on
the On Line Product Applications Guide for the correct
transmission fluid, amount of fluid and transmission filter
before starting the transmission and filter change procedure.

[Built_Well's Note: Better yet, get the ATF fluid, ATF filter,
and ATF pan's gasket from your Toyota dealer, or at least check
in with them to see what they have. Whatever you do, *DON'T*
go to Jiffy Lube. You'll recall the debacle my old Tercel had
at Jiffy Lube with a "routine" coolant change. By the way, the
ATF pan's gasket sells for about $16--not expensive.]

Have these on hand when starting the fluid and filter change.
If the on-line Product Application Guide does not list your
information, contact AMSOIL Technical Department for help.

2. For best results, transmission fluid should be at normal
operating temperature before draining the fluid
(Caution: fluid will be hot).

3. With the engine off, position a drain pan under the
transmission pan and drain the fluid by loosening the
pan bolts. Loosen one corner more than the rest to direct
the flow into the drain pan. [BW's Note: Luckily, the
Camry's ATF pan has a drain plug, so you can drain the
much of the AT fluid /before/ removing the ATF pan (and its
18 bolts that the Camry uses.]

4. Finish removing the transmission pan bolts, and
lower the transmission pan down carefully (some fluid is
still in the transmission pan).

5. Remove the old filter and discard. Most transmission
filters are held in place with a bolt or two, however, some
are held by a clip. Make sure filter O-rings or seals are
discarded with the filter.

6. Install the new filter by using the same bolts or clips
and use a new O-ring or seal (supplied with the new filter).

7. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine
gray clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal
shavings, there could be a mechanical malfunction or
transmission damage.

8. Clean the transmission pan thoroughly with solvent and
wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. In some transmission
pans there is also a magnet that should be cleaned and
reinstalled in the same position in the transmission pan.
[Built_Well's Note: there are 2 magnets inside the 2006 Camry's
ATF pan, according to the repair and service manual at
CamryStuff.com.]
Clean the transmission and transmission pan mating surfaces
of all gasket material being careful not to damage the surfaces.

9. Position the transmission pan gasket on the pan.
Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller
than the rest to allow threading four bolts through
the pan and through these smaller gasket holes to
hold the gasket in place.

10. Hand-tighten the transmission bolts in a crisscross
pattern until snug. Use a torque wrench to tighten
the bolts to the proper ft-lbs using the manufacturer
recommended torque specifications.

11. Refill the transmission through the dipstick fill
hole using the amount shown as �refill capacity� in the
owner�s manual or the AMSOIL �product Selection Guide� (G-50).

[Built_Well's Note: the Camry owner's manual states that the
AT fluid's "drain and fill" capacity is 3.7 quarts.
The "total fill" capacity is 9.3 quarts, according to the online
Amsoil product guide; that's for the 5-speed automatic
transmission. So a whole lot of the AT fluid (about
60 percent) will be in the torque converter. About
40 percent will be in the ATF pan itself.]

12. If performing a transmission pan fluid replacement only,
skip to instruction 14. If doing a complete transmission pan
and torque converter fluid replacement, follow the steps in
instruction 13.

13. Follow these additional 5 steps for complete
transmission pan and torque converter fluid replacement.

1) Obtain the total transmission fluid capacity
from the manufacturer or AMSOIL
and have that amount of transmission
fluid available.

2) Place a drain pan large enough to hold the
total fluid capacity under the oil cooler.
Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the
oil cooler and direct the lines toward the
drain pan.

3) With another person, be prepared to add
ATF to the transmission fill hole (dipstick
hole) at the approximate rate as the fluid
is being pumped out the transmission line
into the drain pan.

4) Start the engine, and as the old fluid is
pumped out, add fresh fluid into the
transmission fill hole.

5) When either the fluid color brightens or
the total capacity has been replaced, shut
the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler
lines. All fluid in the transmission pan
and torque converter has now been changed.

14. With the vehicle on level ground recheck the
fluid level using the manufacturer procedures outlined
in the owners manual. Check the transmission and lines
for leaks.

[Built_Well's Note: By the way, there's also some
very useful information about ATF changes in my
post from December 6, 2007, in the thread titled "How did
Toyota do that".

In 10 years, some of us probably will be only half way to
120,000 miles--probably 60,000 miles for me, for example.
Is it still a good idea to change the AT fluid every 10 years,
even if you've only gone 60,000 miles or less? ]

Link to Amsoil ATF tutorial:
http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/ATF_and_Filter_Change_Procedures.pdf

000000000000000000000000000000

[Now here are some quoted passages taken from the 5th
generation Camry's repair and service manual currently
available at CamryStuff.com .

Here's how to check your ATF fluid level] :

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID, ON�VEHICLE INSPECTION

1. CHECK FLUID LEVEL

HINT:
Drive the vehicle so that the engine and transaxle are at normal
operating temperature.
Fluid temperature: 70 � 80 °C (158 � 176 °F)dd

(a) Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking
brake.

(b) With the engine idling and the brake pedal depressed,
shift the shift lever into all positions from P to L position
and return to P position.

(c) Take out the dipstick and wipe it clean.

(d) Put it back fully into the pipe.

(e) Take it out and check that the fluid level is in the HOT position.

If there are leaks, it is necessary to repair or replace O�rings,
FIPGs, oil seals, plugs or other parts.

111111111111111111111111111111111

[Built_Well's Note: The Camry repair and service manual didn't
seem to have a section devoted solely to changing the ATF fluid,
pan, and gasket, but it did include the necessary steps to do so
couched in other repairs like replacing the transmission wire and
replacing the transmission valve body assembly.]

1. REMOVE ENGINE UNDERCOVER LH [LH may mean left-hand/side;
RH, right-hand/side. I guess this is the plastic protective
cover/skirt underneath the front end. This step may or may not
be necessary when your job is simply to remove the ATF pan and
gasket. I would have to crawl under the front chassis again
to find out, but I won't be doing that until my next motor oil
change is due in October.]

2. DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID

(a) Remove the drain plug and gasket, and drain ATF.

(b) Install a new gasket and drain plug.
Torque: 49 N�m (500 kgf�cm, 36 ft�lbf)

[Built_Well's Note: Notice that the Toyota manual instructs to
install a new ATF drain plug gasket. (Ray forgot to mention this
part. There's no doubt Ray is an expert, but even experts make
mistakes, sometimes often [chuckle] :-P

3. REMOVE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE OIL PAN
SUB�ASSY

(a) Remove the 18 bolts, oil pan and gasket.

NOTICE:
Some fluid will remain in the oil pan. Remove all pan bolts,
and carefully remove the oil pan assembly.

(b) Remove the 2 magnets from the oil pan.

(c) Examine particles in pan.
(1) Remove the magnets and use them to collect any
steel chips. Look carefully at the chips and particles
in the pan and the magnet to anticipate what type
of wear you will find in the transaxle.
Steel (magnetic): bearing, gear and plate wear
Brass (non�magnetic): bearing wr

222222222222222222222222222222222

INSTALL AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE OIL PAN
SUB�ASSY

(a) Install the 2 magnets in the oil pan.

(b) Apply seal packing or equivalent to 18 bolts.
Seal packing:
THREE BOND 2430 or equivalent

(c) Install a new gasket, oil pan and 18 bolts to the transaxle
case.
Torque:
Torque: 7.8 N-m (80 kgf-cm, 69 in.-lbf)

NOTICE:
Because the bolts should be seal bolts, apply seal packing
to bolts and tighten them within 10 minutes after application.

[End of info from the Toyota repair and service manual.]

////////////////////////////////////////////////////

By the way, this is the DISCLAMER that is attached to
Amsoil's tutuorial:

The automatic transmission fluid and filter change
procedures are meant to serve as guidelines only.
These guidelines do not take into consideration variations
between vehicles. Changing transmission fluid
should only be conducted by individuals with the
proper mechanical knowledge and training. Personal
injury and/or transmission problems can occur when
the proper precautions are not followed. If in doubt,
have your transmission serviced by individuals capable
of performing this function.

///////////////////////////////////////////////////
From: Built_Well on

BobJ <jonroq(a)excite.com> wrote:
>
> I think many of the Toyota models have a label on the
> trans dipstick, which says " SERVICE NOT REQUIRED UNDER
> NORMAL OPERATING CONDITIONS". This is pure BS, unless you
> want (or more like Toyota wants) the transmission to crater
> in under 50K miles. I have an 04 Matrix went past 30K
> without any attention to the trans. Thinking more of
> preventive maintenance, I bought a case of T-IV fluid and
> drained the trans. The fluid was almost brown. It didn't
> smell too bad, but I replaced most of the fluid, then
> changed the pan again every other oil change siince.
> Everything is fine mechanically so far (53K) and I plan on
> it staying that way. Todays transmissions are the biggest
> extortion racket going. It pays to know a lot more about
> your car that the unfortunate schmuck who thinks the dealer
> is his friend..
========

Points very well made, BobJ. I think I might drain and fill
the Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV fluid at 50 or 60,000 miles,
even though the owner's manual says it's not necessary to
change the ATF if you're not driving under Special Operating
Conditions. The Camry maintenance guide lists 60,000 miles or
6 years as the distance or time to change the ATF when driving
under Special Operating Conditions like dusty roads or towing.

I wonder how many folks have the guts to follow the manual,
and never change their ATF. I was looking at the maintenance
guide for an Oldsmobile Delta Eighty-Eight, and it says to
change its Dexron II ATF at 100,000 miles, or every 15,000
miles under severe operating conditions.
From: Ray O on

"Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:74c52327-cf84-4d08-a9ae-e1a199d64db9(a)e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

How's that for a comprehensively titled subject line {LOL}

Tony, in addition to the excellent advice from Hachiroku and
Ray, you might want to review the following tutorial from Amsoil
about changing the ATF.

Keep in mind that the steps in the tutorial may differ slightly
depending upon the type of car you have. You didn't mention
your car's model, or anything else in the body of your
message, which was blank--only your subject line appeared.

Anyway, this is a good, general tutorial that will be
helpful. I've added my own Camry-sepcific notes to it in
square brackets [ ] .

***********
It depends on one's definition of "good." The Camry does not have a
transmissoin filter, just a screen.

As I mentioned before, the screen does not need periodic replacement.

<snipped.

[Now here are some quoted passages taken from the 5th
generation Camry's repair and service manual currently
available at CamryStuff.com .

Here's how to check your ATF fluid level] :

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID, ON�??VEHICLE INSPECTION

1. CHECK FLUID LEVEL

HINT:
Drive the vehicle so that the engine and transaxle are at normal
operating temperature.
Fluid temperature: 70 �?? 80 °C (158 �?? 176 °F)dd

(a) Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking
brake.

(b) With the engine idling and the brake pedal depressed,
shift the shift lever into all positions from P to L position
and return to P position.

(c) Take out the dipstick and wipe it clean.

(d) Put it back fully into the pipe.

(e) Take it out and check that the fluid level is in the HOT position.

If there are leaks, it is necessary to repair or replace O�??rings,
FIPGs, oil seals, plugs or other parts.

111111111111111111111111111111111

[Built_Well's Note: The Camry repair and service manual didn't
seem to have a section devoted solely to changing the ATF fluid,
pan, and gasket, but it did include the necessary steps to do so
couched in other repairs like replacing the transmission wire and
replacing the transmission valve body assembly.]

1. REMOVE ENGINE UNDERCOVER LH [LH may mean left-hand/side;
RH, right-hand/side. I guess this is the plastic protective
cover/skirt underneath the front end. This step may or may not
be necessary when your job is simply to remove the ATF pan and
gasket. I would have to crawl under the front chassis again
to find out, but I won't be doing that until my next motor oil
change is due in October.]

************
LH does mean left-hand.
************

2. DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID

(a) Remove the drain plug and gasket, and drain ATF.

(b) Install a new gasket and drain plug.
Torque: 49 N�??m (500 kgf�??cm, 36 ft�??lbf)

[Built_Well's Note: Notice that the Toyota manual instructs to
install a new ATF drain plug gasket. (Ray forgot to mention this
part. There's no doubt Ray is an expert, but even experts make
mistakes, sometimes often [chuckle] :-P

************
Ray's Note: I purposely omitted removal and replacmeent of the transmission
pan, gasket, and screen because it is not necessary as part of routine
maintenance.

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


From: Built_Well on

Ray O wrote:

> I purposely omitted removal and replacmeent of the
> transmission pan, gasket, and screen because it is not
> necessary as part of routine maintenance.

Yes, but I wasn't talking about the gasket for the ATF pan.
I was talking about the small gasket for the ATF drain plug.
You ommited to mention that gasket--a common mistake or
oversight; I wouldn't worry about it :-P

Just like the engine oil's drain plug has a small round,
washer-like gasket, so does the ATF pan's drain plug.

I'll quote the Camry service and repair manual again:

2. DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID

(a) Remove the drain plug and gasket, and drain ATF.

(b) Install a new gasket and drain plug.

Torque: 36 ft-lbf
From: Ray O on

"Built_Well" <Built_Well_Toyota(a)hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:29d5731f-d6cf-4255-b5b2-8cecc9525aa5(a)y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>
> Ray O wrote:
>
>> I purposely omitted removal and replacmeent of the
>> transmission pan, gasket, and screen because it is not
>> necessary as part of routine maintenance.
>
> Yes, but I wasn't talking about the gasket for the ATF pan.
> I was talking about the small gasket for the ATF drain plug.
> You ommited to mention that gasket--a common mistake or
> oversight; I wouldn't worry about it :-P
>
> Just like the engine oil's drain plug has a small round,
> washer-like gasket, so does the ATF pan's drain plug.
>
> I'll quote the Camry service and repair manual again:
>
> 2. DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
>
> (a) Remove the drain plug and gasket, and drain ATF.
>
> (b) Install a new gasket and drain plug.
>
> Torque: 36 ft-lbf

I guess you got me there. I'll admit that I do not check a repair manual
every time I post advice here because if I did, I would not get anything
else done. For example after I got home from work around 7:00, tonight, I
pulled the wheels off of our troop's trailer, inspected the tires (failed),
put the trailer on jack stands so we could take the wheels to have new tires
mounted, checked the brakes on a friend's truck (passed) and inflated his
tires, sat in the driveway and chatted with my friend, sorted and inspected
my climbing gear for this weekend, dug out some pictures that were buried in
the garage for my mom, played with my son's new puppy, cleaned out the spam
folder for our office, responded to some e-mails, did the dishes, and
watched Two and Half Men, caught a few minutes of Mythbusters, scrolled
past all of the OT nonsense in this NG, and thought about responses to
questions and posts here.

Although this is not strictly "by the book," as a practical matter, you can
get away with re-using fiber gaskets many times without leaks if you
properly tighten the drain plug. Although "book" advice is always good, I
have worked on a few cars here and there and try to share my experience and
give practical advice that can save people time and money that has worked
for me over the years. I also try to leave out irrelevant information and
advice, like telling someone to change something like a transmission screen
that does not need changing. Changing ATF is not rocket science, and unless
the OP is totally clueless about working on cars, my 2-paragraph response
should give the OP enough information to do the job without having to read
twenty-something paragraphs and try do decide if something is relevant for
his car or not.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)