From: gus.natale on
I have an 87 4Runner that I knew had bad rear brakes, but the vehicle
still did well at stopping quickly. After removing the drums, I
decided to replace the rear cylinders, one brake line, pads and
drums. After everything was back together, I went through and snugged
up the lines, adjusted the emergency brake until it was tight and bled
the brakes starting with the furthest from the Master Cylinder (which
is also new within the past 5 months) and ending with the drivers
front brake cylinder. THe brakes still seemed very spongy and I was
unable to lock the brakes up onmy gravel driveway and the vehicle took
a greater distance to come to a stop than it should have, so I went
ahead repeated the bleeding process after making sure that there were
no leaks and the lines were nice and tight. Needless to say I have
bled the brakes a total of 6 times and there is still no luck. The
front brakes and calipers are around a year old with maybe 10,000
miles on them. It doesn't make much sense that the brakes worked
better before the new rear brakes than they do after all new rear
components. Anyone out there have any ideas? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

From: OldPhart on

<gus.natale(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188950341.872175.50320(a)o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
| I have an 87 4Runner that I knew had bad rear brakes, but the vehicle
| still did well at stopping quickly. After removing the drums, I
| decided to replace the rear cylinders, one brake line, pads and
| drums. After everything was back together, I went through and snugged
| up the lines, adjusted the emergency brake until it was tight and bled
| the brakes starting with the furthest from the Master Cylinder (which
| is also new within the past 5 months) and ending with the drivers
| front brake cylinder. THe brakes still seemed very spongy and I was
| unable to lock the brakes up onmy gravel driveway and the vehicle took
| a greater distance to come to a stop than it should have, so I went
| ahead repeated the bleeding process after making sure that there were
| no leaks and the lines were nice and tight. Needless to say I have
| bled the brakes a total of 6 times and there is still no luck. The
| front brakes and calipers are around a year old with maybe 10,000
| miles on them. It doesn't make much sense that the brakes worked
| better before the new rear brakes than they do after all new rear
| components. Anyone out there have any ideas? Any help would be
| greatly appreciated.
|
|

According to this site:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/bleedingbrakes/ There is a
LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve) that should be bled last. It
changes the amount of fluid pressure to the rear brakes according to the
weight.

In the past I have experienced some sponginess of the brakes until
everything gets seated in. Did you run the rear shoes out until they are
just in contact with the drums? The article says within .5 mm.

--
OldPhart

From: al on
On Sep 4, 7:59 pm, gus.nat...(a)gmail.com wrote:
> I have an 87 4Runner that I knew had bad rear brakes, but the vehicle
> still did well at stopping quickly. After removing the drums, I
> decided to replace the rear cylinders, one brake line, pads and
> drums. After everything was back together, I went through and snugged
> up the lines, adjusted the emergency brake until it was tight and bled
> the brakes starting with the furthest from the Master Cylinder (which
> is also new within the past 5 months) and ending with the drivers
> front brake cylinder. THe brakes still seemed very spongy and I was
> unable to lock the brakes up onmy gravel driveway and the vehicle took
> a greater distance to come to a stop than it should have, so I went
> ahead repeated the bleeding process after making sure that there were
> no leaks and the lines were nice and tight. Needless to say I have
> bled the brakes a total of 6 times and there is still no luck. The
> front brakes and calipers are around a year old with maybe 10,000
> miles on them. It doesn't make much sense that the brakes worked
> better before the new rear brakes than they do after all new rear
> components. Anyone out there have any ideas? Any help would be
> greatly appreciated.

This will sound stupid but it might just work. Try bleeding with the
rear of the truck jacked up as high as possible. Then try bleeding
with the front jacked up. If there is air in some hard to reach place
that might move it to where you can expel it. This technique is
really for bleeding cooling systems and not hydraulic systems but
you've tried everything else. Just a thought. Good luck. Al

From: gusdog on
On Sep 4, 8:40 pm, "OldPhart" <OldPh...(a)invalid.invalid> wrote:
> <gus.nat...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1188950341.872175.50320(a)o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> | I have an 87 4Runner that I knew had bad rear brakes, but the vehicle
> | still did well at stopping quickly. After removing the drums, I
> | decided to replace the rear cylinders, one brake line, pads and
> | drums. After everything was back together, I went through and snugged
> | up the lines, adjusted the emergency brake until it was tight and bled
> | the brakes starting with the furthest from the Master Cylinder (which
> | is also new within the past 5 months) and ending with the drivers
> | front brake cylinder. THe brakes still seemed very spongy and I was
> | unable to lock the brakes up onmy gravel driveway and the vehicle took
> | a greater distance to come to a stop than it should have, so I went
> | ahead repeated the bleeding process after making sure that there were
> | no leaks and the lines were nice and tight. Needless to say I have
> | bled the brakes a total of 6 times and there is still no luck. The
> | front brakes and calipers are around a year old with maybe 10,000
> | miles on them. It doesn't make much sense that the brakes worked
> | better before the new rear brakes than they do after all new rear
> | components. Anyone out there have any ideas? Any help would be
> | greatly appreciated.
> |
> |
>
> According to this site:http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/bleedingbrakes/ There is a
> LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve) that should be bled last. It
> changes the amount of fluid pressure to the rear brakes according to the
> weight.
>
> In the past I have experienced some sponginess of the brakes until
> everything gets seated in. Did you run the rear shoes out until they are
> just in contact with the drums? The article says within .5 mm.
>
> --
> OldPhart

Yikes, that LSVP looks pretty ugly. I don't know if I will even be
able to get the bleeder screw open. I have heard of by-passing it
from others, but what confuses me is that there are two lines coming
from the front of the vehicle and one going out to the junction on the
rear axle. I will try these suggestions. Thanks!

From: gusdog on
On Sep 5, 7:42 am, gusdog <gus.nat...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 4, 8:40 pm, "OldPhart" <OldPh...(a)invalid.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <gus.nat...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1188950341.872175.50320(a)o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> > | I have an 87 4Runner that I knew had bad rear brakes, but the vehicle
> > | still did well at stopping quickly. After removing the drums, I
> > | decided to replace the rear cylinders, one brake line, pads and
> > | drums. After everything was back together, I went through and snugged
> > | up the lines, adjusted the emergency brake until it was tight and bled
> > | the brakes starting with the furthest from the Master Cylinder (which
> > | is also new within the past 5 months) and ending with the drivers
> > | front brake cylinder. THe brakes still seemed very spongy and I was
> > | unable to lock the brakes up onmy gravel driveway and the vehicle took
> > | a greater distance to come to a stop than it should have, so I went
> > | ahead repeated the bleeding process after making sure that there were
> > | no leaks and the lines were nice and tight. Needless to say I have
> > | bled the brakes a total of 6 times and there is still no luck. The
> > | front brakes and calipers are around a year old with maybe 10,000
> > | miles on them. It doesn't make much sense that the brakes worked
> > | better before the new rear brakes than they do after all new rear
> > | components. Anyone out there have any ideas? Any help would be
> > | greatly appreciated.
> > |
> > |
>
> > According to this site:http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/bleedingbrakes/There is a
> > LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve) that should be bled last. It
> > changes the amount of fluid pressure to the rear brakes according to the
> > weight.
>
> > In the past I have experienced some sponginess of the brakes until
> > everything gets seated in. Did you run the rear shoes out until they are
> > just in contact with the drums? The article says within .5 mm.
>
> > --
> > OldPhart
>
> Yikes, that LSVP looks pretty ugly. I don't know if I will even be
> able to get the bleeder screw open. I have heard of by-passing it
> from others, but what confuses me is that there are two lines coming
> from the front of the vehicle and one going out to the junction on the
> rear axle. I will try these suggestions. Thanks!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I think I have found the problem. There seemed to be a very small
leak (small enough to let air in but no fluid out) at the LPSV, so I
have removed it and am putting in a brake line T and a manual
adjusting proportion valve.