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From: Danny G. on 21 Dec 2007 15:28

"Mark A" <nobody(a)nowhere.com> wrote in
message
news:8OGaj.26027$vt2.7683(a)bignews8.bellsouth.net...
> "JoeSpareBedroom"
> <dishborealis(a)yahoo.com> wrote in
> message
> news:dBGaj.710$Sa1.99(a)news02.roc.ny...
>> Why would a new timing belt make the
>> engine run poorly compared to before
>> the work was done?
>
> The timing belt determines the engine
> "timing". It is very difficult to get
> it exactly right, and some mechanics
> are lazy or poorly trained. Plus, once
> your engine has 8 years of normal
> wear, then sometimes setting the
> timing with a new timing belt reveals
> problems or inconsistencies with older
> parts in the engine.
>
> Let me give you an analogy: Suppose
> you have 2 keys for your car, but you
> only use one of them. The key that is
> used and the lock exhibit wear after 8
> years of use, but they wear together.
> Then after 8 years if you try to use
> the 2nd key (in brand new condition)
> then you will find that it does not
> work well in the 8 year old lock.
> (Please don't tell me that a lock and
> key is not the same as a timing
> belt--you need to look up the
> definition of analogy).
>
> If you search Google groups archives,
> you will find many people complain
> that there engine does not run as well
> after a timing belt change.
>
> So my advice applies to you, assuming
> your engine is non-interference (which
> I believe is correct since it is the
> same engine as my 98 Camry V6).
>



Mark, You are just to funny. Thanks for
making me laugh out loud reading your
post. It has been a long time since I
have heard anything that wrong...

gosh, I'm still laughing. Oh and by the
way. The first original key/lock for my
18 year old
car got so worn down that it would not
work unless I jiggled it and was so
loose it
would come out when the ignition was
turned on and fall on the floor board.
So I fixed the problem by switching to
my second unused original key (the
hide-a-key) that
that works perfect in the locks because
it's not worn out...

Dan


From: Mark A on 21 Dec 2007 17:36
"Danny G." <dandog(a)pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:KmVaj.703$lo5.235(a)newssvr19.news.prodigy.net...
> Mark, You are just to funny. Thanks for making me laugh out loud reading
> your
> post. It has been a long time since I have heard anything that wrong...
>
> gosh, I'm still laughing. Oh and by the way. The first original key/lock
> for my 18 year old
> car got so worn down that it would not work unless I jiggled it and was so
> loose it
> would come out when the ignition was turned on and fall on the floor
> board.
> So I fixed the problem by switching to my second unused original key (the
> hide-a-key) that
> that works perfect in the locks because it's not worn out...
>
> Dan

I think most people have had the opposite experience from you. Not only in
the ignition, but in the door and trunk locks.


From: nm5k on 21 Dec 2007 19:50
On Dec 21, 11:36 am, "Mark A" <nob...(a)nowhere.com> wrote:
> <n...(a)wt.net> wrote in message
>
> news:a465a8ad-c812-4f05-814d-ac9c26923d0f(a)i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > I disagree with that one.. Maybe with sloppy mechanics,
> > but it's not hard to properly set up a timing belt.
> > In all the ones I've done, I couldn't tell any difference
> > at all in how they ran before vs after.
> > But I am careful in setting up the timing marks.
> > I'll line them up perfectly before taking the belt off,
> > and not touch the gears when it's off.
> > When I replace, I won't nail it down until it's exactly
> > the same as it was when I took it off.
> > This is not hard to do. I might have to do it over
> > once or twice until it's perfect, but that is not
> > hard to do. Even being one tooth off is enough to
> > cause problems. But you have to be sloppy or
> > lazy to have it one tooth off. Or in my opinion
> > anyway..
> > If I put one one and it's one off, I'll redo it until it's
> > right. You can tell by the marks if it's off or not if
> > you carefully set it up before taking the old one
> > off.
> > Trust the timing marks! They don't lie.
> > BTW, I always follow the tensioner settings
> > *exactly* as per the manual. Many engines
> > vary a bit in that regard. Some vary a lot..
> > IE: most hondas set up the tensioner totally
> > different than most of the toyotas.
> > MK
>
> I am quite sure you are the exception. Most mechanics would not do it over
> again several times if it was not exact (unless they are working on their
> own car).


They should. It sure doesn't take very long. The last one
I had to do, I had to do twice before I nailed it down.
Added maybe an extra 5-10 min? to make sure it was right..
If I had a mechanic change a belt, and it was not right,
"I could tell instantly by the way it ran and timed",
I'd make them do it over again. Sure, the base timing
might shift just a tad when properly changing a belt,
but it's not going to be much, and surely not enough
to throw it out of the adjustable range for it to run
correctly. The toyotas I've replaced belts on changed
very little, but the belts I replaced were not totally
shot yet. Actually, the last one I did was ok, but I
changed it anyway cuz I was in there to change a
water pump.. IE: the reverse of my "timing belt/water
pump at one time" theory.. :/
On that one, I don't even think I had to adjust the base
timing much at all.
To me, there is no excuse for sloppy work on a fairly
simple job that is mostly labor costs...
The belt itself is cheap..
And most get 500-600-700 bucks a pop if they change
the water pump and seals also.. I'm not sure what the
dealer charges. I'd sure expect a dealer to get it right,
and they should, being they do so many of them.
If they didn't, I'd bring it back.
But.. I do my own for my cars.. So I know it's going
to be right, if I have to restring it 8 times to get it
that way.
MK
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