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From: pandi on 15 Jul 2006 21:35
Thanks Ray and Jeff. I got the part and got it fixed. 200 miles later
the light statys off and the car passed emissions test. My local
mechanic charged me only $20 to change the part (the part itself cost
me $230 though) but still I saved about $175 off the price quoted by
the dealer.

On a related note, I saw another post where someone was suggesting to
reset the OBD II codes and after wiping them out his car passed the
emissions test. But when I fixed my sensor I went for emisions test
after about 20 miles or so and it failed as they cant read the ODBII
computer on board (I had the mechanic reset the Check Engine Light as I
was taking the car for emissions test right after this was fixed).

Thanks for the help guys
Andy

Jeff Strickland wrote:
> Yes, it is MOST likely the A/F sensor itself. And, it's the heater element
> built inside of it if you need that much resolution.
>
> Personally, I would have gone with the aftermarket and avoided the
> dealership, but I like to take my chances.
>
>
>
> <pandi(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1152316304.835494.279630(a)s53g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
> > So in other words it is Air Fuel Sensor related problem right?. That is
> > what my mechanic is asking me to do. Or can this code indicate any
> > other related problems. Will this go away if I put my new Air Fuel
> > Sensor (Toyota part# 89467-33011) which I bought today. [It cost me
> > close to $250 but I just found out it is also available on the web for
> > lot cheaper like $100ish - same part, same part#).
> >
> > Thanks
> > Andy
> >
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> <pandi(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1152224436.244372.188670(a)s53g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
> >>
> >>
> >> Check this site for the correct meaning of the codes,
> >> http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> P1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
> >> (Toyota)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I may be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure the A/F Sensor and the O2 Sensor
> >> are
> >> the same thing. Some O2 Sensors are heated, and some are not. Yours is
> >> the
> >> heated variety, and the heater is broken. Let us rely on Ray O to confirm
> >> this, he works with this stuff all of the time and he will know if my
> >> theory
> >> is correct. A failure of the O2 side of the sensor will give the P0135, a
> >> failure of the heater element side will give the P1135.
> >>
> >> There is a school of thought that says the interconnecting wiring can be
> >> the
> >> problem, and the connectors have failed on occasion. Personally, I like
> >> to
> >> think that the connectors and wires will survive much longer than 10
> >> years,
> >> and I go with the component as the probable failure. Having said that,
> >> the
> >> failure areas of the wiring are generally at the connector, and while
> >> going
> >> after the component, the connector is along the way so give it a look.
> >>
> >> The sensor has a heater element inside, and the computer can look at the
> >> circuitry of the heater to determine if the heater is working. Heaters
> >> get
> >> hot, that's what they are for. And, the heat makes them brittle and they
> >> fail.
> >>
> >> If you can replace a spark plug, the odds are good you can replace the O2
> >> Sensor. Ray says that the connector on the aftermarket (not, off market
> >> by
> >> the way) parts can be the wrong one, causing one to splice wires. I have
> >> never run into that one before, and my guess is that if the connector is
> >> wrong, then the part is not the right part for any number of reasons. I
> >> would pull the failed part and carry it with me to the parts store to
> >> compare with the replacement part.
> >

From: Ray O on 15 Jul 2006 23:43

<pandi(a)yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1153013733.396267.309870(a)35g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Thanks Ray and Jeff. I got the part and got it fixed. 200 miles later
> the light statys off and the car passed emissions test. My local
> mechanic charged me only $20 to change the part (the part itself cost
> me $230 though) but still I saved about $175 off the price quoted by
> the dealer.
>
> On a related note, I saw another post where someone was suggesting to
> reset the OBD II codes and after wiping them out his car passed the
> emissions test. But when I fixed my sensor I went for emisions test
> after about 20 miles or so and it failed as they cant read the ODBII
> computer on board (I had the mechanic reset the Check Engine Light as I
> was taking the car for emissions test right after this was fixed).
>
> Thanks for the help guys
> Andy
>

You're welcome! The computer has to record 2 specific types of trips
without detecting any problems before it is ready for an emissions test.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


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